How much brake fluid would ge good?

The order of bleeding for the '93 accord is Rear Right, Front Left,
Rear Left, Front Right. I'm going to have to figure a way to tackle
the pushrod freeplay issue. Okay. I got my refurbished MC and so I'm
just waiting for the opportune moment, like when I have a 3day weekend
or something...
I've always got AAA to drag me to the mechanic ..

 

They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.

Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).

If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.

Hope it helps.

 

:

"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid
they used as an assembly lube.

 

it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a
humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would
rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in
the garage for a season and watch what happens!

 

Ah, well.

In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the
installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as
well.

 

may as well do it on the car. bolt on, connect but don't tighten the
fluid lines, bleed away. good deal less messy than getting fluid all
over your bench. the car has to be washed off after installation anyway.

 

Hmm,
so, just put the new MC in and attach the hoses slightly and then
bleed the master cylinder? Interesting approach. I guess just bolt it
onto the booster and and attach the hoses. I like the fact that it
would be connected to the brakes which I could pump from.
I may have misunderstood you of course...

 

That's my usual approach. I wrap a shop rag around each fitting and bleed it
by pressing the pedal and keeping the reservoir full until the rags are
getting wet. Then I tighten the fittings and bleed each wheel until the
fluid is clear... I rarely see bubbles come out, just murky fluid. It's a
really lazy approach but it works for me. Disclaimer - I have not had to
deal with ABS, and this may not work well with ABS.

Be sure to wash all the areas well when you are done.

Mike

 

It's my understanding that the conventional system should not be
affected by the presence of ABS. The fluid chambers are different, so
I don't see what one fluid would do to the other fluid in another
reservoir.

 

ABS Master Cylinders are much more complex inside.

 

Well, to answer my own question, I used a little less than half a quart
of brake fluid. I probably would have gone through the whole quart,
but I couldn't get the rear left valve loose.

Using my flare wrench, I couldn't loosen the rearleft bleed screw.
The head is rounded and I don't know how I should go about turning it
w/ out breaking it. Any suggestions?

Once loosened I can replace it with a new bleed screw I guess.

Any one w/ experience here? Thanks!

 

if its already wrecked, use some penetrating oil on it, and a small pipe
wrench shold do the trick. Get a new one from the wrecker or honda.

 

I was afraid the penetrating oil might contaminate the brake system.
Is there a compatible lube I could use in this application, one that
might be better in a 'brake systems' situation?

It's a pain because I didn't get to finish flushing my Brake System.
I got the new MC on and made sure to bleed that, but I couldn't drain
all the lines. The line going to the rear left tire is the guilty
bleed screw... I'm not horribly worried, I just I wanted to get that
old fluid out of that line. I also hope all that old fliud stays in
that line and doesn't migrate throughout the rest of the system, but I
guess it makes sense that it would eventually mix together, but
hopefully not too soon.

Thanks man!

 

If you know you are going to replace it anyway, try the vice-grips.

 

Yeah,
this is what I'm thinking. I need to make a run up to the junk yard
and see if I can locate one. Maybe a few, I doubt I'd find my
identical car, just similar ones a year or so apart. I couldn't find
simple bleed screws anywhere, just the fancy ones that have valves or
something in them so you can bleed them easier.
I've got a one-man brake bleed kit which is quite simple to use, just
a bottle w/ a tube going to the bleed screw nipple, so I'm not
interested in these more expensive screw types.

 

Did you check with the counter people at Autozone? IIRC,
they keep ordinary bleeder screws behind the counter for a
few dollars each.

 

sweet,
I'll check that out. I've got a MC core to return....that's great!


I'm curious how much fluid I'll lose when I pull that old screw out.

Thanks alot!

 

scube wrote:

That would depend on how many times you press the brake pedal while its
out.

-jim

 

oh sweet,
I had a hunch that was the case, for when I opened the other bleed
screws there was just a slight drip until I pressed the brake.

How long is too long to let brake fluid sit around before you use it
in an opened container. We've been told that it collects water, but
any clue how long is too long?

I'd like to report that after about 6 or so days w/ my new MC the
brakes are like new. At first I thought there was a bit too much play
in them, but after driving to and from work a few times I don't notice
it, and the pedal doesn't sink anymore at hot temperatures.

There may be a slight amount or air in there, when I was bleeding
the MC I just kept bleeding and bleeding, eventually I'd seee more
airbubbles in come through the tubes ... so..?

Ah well, thanks so much all for the great advice and tribulations.
I am very pleased at the results of several of my adventures w/ my car
in the past few months, including CV axles, new front struts, fixed
cruise control, and clean MC. It went as smooth as it did with all
of your help. Thanks again.

 

It depends on the humidity. Around here where the humidity is always around
100% a few minuites is all it takes , but never use brake fluid from a
container that has remained open overnight unless you live where the
humidity is Zero.