how much brake fluid

Hi, I am gonna try to change the brake fluid in two Civics. One is
1997, the other one is 2001, both are LX, 5 speed, no ABS. How much
brake fluid do I need foe each? I plan to use a syringe to extract the
old fluid from the reservoir, then add fress fluid and flush the lines
one at a time, (I know the right order), use a hose at the bleeding
screw (does anyone know WHAT SIZE?) and have someone pump the brake.
Yes, I will refill the reservoir, I don't want air in the system.

I have no idea what is the volume of brake fluid in these cars.

Thanks

 

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Less than half a litre will do both, no problem. Be sure your helper
knows not to push the pedal down to the floor (or use a block of wood
under the pedal) The tubing that comes on a MityVac fits the nipples
just a bit loose. You could check that at the mity-vac web site.

'Curly'

 

Figure you'll open about two pint bottles for each, but use a bit less than
the full two pints. Three pints might do total, but get four to be sure.

Honda uses a diagonally-split system. Bleed order is
RR, LF; LR, RF.

8mm wrench. 1/4" ID vinyl hose. A couple of feet of hose will do.

For the 2001 you can pump the pedal right to the floor. It's new enough
that corrosion and gunk buildup will be minimal to none.

For the '97, I'd limit pedal travel to 1.5" with a block under the pedal.

 

"For the '97, I'd limit pedal travel to 1.5" with a block under the
pedal. "

Could you please comment on that?

 

It's eight years old. Unless the fluid's been changed (using the pedal-pump
method) at least a few times over those eight years, you risk damage to
your master cylinder seals if you let the pedal go to the floor now.

 

i just go RR, LR, RF, LF... from the furthest away to the closest to the MC.

i likes my mityvac. it allows me to do it all by myself, without
pumping the brake. found it works better when i take the bleeder screws
out and wrap 1 revolution of teflon tape around the threads. otherwise i
get air bubbles through the threads. the speed bleeder screws would
probably be better, but i digress.

 

there may be merit to this argument, but for my money, the master
cylinder /must/ be able to withstand excess travel in the event of
emergency braking or line failure, so, apart from the fact that full
travel bleeding is the only way to bleed some difficult systems, i think
it's best to bleed full travel now, and see if it accelerates failure.

my experience is that some master cylinders on neglected systems will
often start to leak a few days after a fluid change, even if bled by
vacuum or pressure [where there is zero pedal movement], because new
fluid causes seals to shrink, so therefore cause & effect with full
travel bleeding is not absolute.

 

Maybe so, but the risk of damage rises considerably with age and neglect.

I've found that systems up to about six years old are /usually/ OK for
pedal bleeding. I suppose that six years would probably be extended in low-
moisture regions like SoCal and Nevada.

 

After you empty the MC reservoir, wipe it down with a clean paper towel.
Then fill it with fresh fluid. How much fluid you will need will depend
on the condition of the brake lines. Sometimes it takes a lot of fluid
to flush out all the crud in the system. In my limited experience, one
quart has been enough to flush a brake system clean.

 

another tip if you want to really flush the old crud out is to open the
bleed valves on the front brake calipers, then push the pistons all the
way back in. this forces the maximum amount of old stuff out. if you
don't do this, you'll get cleanish fluid come out, but because the
bottom half of the caliper is not effectively flushed this way, more of
the old fluid remains.

 

That was my experience with my 94 Civic. The fluid was so dirty (from
neglect, I guess--bought it used) I went through the better part of a
quart flushing all the crud out.