I broke off my Oxygen sensor

Yes, they are sold at home depot....when i had this problem, i didn't
know what to do either until I went there and started asking around..... one
of the people there showed me it....and told me it works wonders...forgot
how much it is, but I don't think it was too much.... it comes in three
sizes....well the one i have did...

good luck,

Fwed

 

I share your frustration. If they grip, they love to break... but often they
just don't bite well enough.

I had a thought, though. The threads are jammed because they have tried to
weld together, with the "pull" direction being the main force. When the
EZ-out is seated, how about a few judicious taps with a hammer (or whatever
will fit in the space available) on the end of the EZ-out to try to weaken
those welds?

MIke

 

I share your frustration. If they grip, they love to break... but often they
just don't bite well enough.

I had a thought, though. The threads are jammed because they have tried to
weld together, with the "pull" direction being the main force. When the
EZ-out is seated, how about a few judicious taps with a hammer (or whatever
will fit in the space available) on the end of the EZ-out to try to weaken
those welds?

MIke

 

That sounds like a good idea, if there is room to get it.

Mike

 

That sounds like a good idea, if there is room to get it.

Mike

 

Soak with PB Blaster an hour. Try an EZ-Out, some tapping
(vibrations work wonders, like Michael suggests). EZ-Outs
often fail, but they often work, too. They may be had at
Autozone. Otherwise, what others said.

In my experience, PB Blaster is superior to Liquid Wrench,
by a lot. They are about the same price. PB Blaster worked
great on my exhaust system bolts last year, though the
closer I got to the manifold, the tougher freeing bolts
became.

Updates are welcome. Good luck.

suggestions?

 

Soak with PB Blaster an hour. Try an EZ-Out, some tapping
(vibrations work wonders, like Michael suggests). EZ-Outs
often fail, but they often work, too. They may be had at
Autozone. Otherwise, what others said.

In my experience, PB Blaster is superior to Liquid Wrench,
by a lot. They are about the same price. PB Blaster worked
great on my exhaust system bolts last year, though the
closer I got to the manifold, the tougher freeing bolts
became.

Updates are welcome. Good luck.

suggestions?

 

HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer)
Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
turn it out. should come out easily this way.

 

HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer)
Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
turn it out. should come out easily this way.

 

If it were my car I would:
Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
4) Install new O2 sensor.

 

If it were my car I would:
Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
4) Install new O2 sensor.

 

| WD 40 is $hit in a can.

Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

 

| WD 40 is $hit in a can.

Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

 

Heat was going to be my recommendation as well (though without spraying it
with penetrating oil while it was hot). Once it's hot, try using the EZ
out. Though, I tend to prefer the spiral fluted extractors over the taper
square style. In addition, make sure that you're not putting a side load on
the extractor, just a twisting load. Side loads tend to make them brake.
If you're going to drill it, then be sure to use left handed drill bits
since they will help to loosen the remaining piece from the threads. Still,
it looks like there's enough rust in there to require heating with a torch.

Eric

 

Heat was going to be my recommendation as well (though without spraying it
with penetrating oil while it was hot). Once it's hot, try using the EZ
out. Though, I tend to prefer the spiral fluted extractors over the taper
square style. In addition, make sure that you're not putting a side load on
the extractor, just a twisting load. Side loads tend to make them brake.
If you're going to drill it, then be sure to use left handed drill bits
since they will help to loosen the remaining piece from the threads. Still,
it looks like there's enough rust in there to require heating with a torch.

Eric

 

Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
like "Budweiser is good beer."

nate

 

Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
like "Budweiser is good beer."

nate

 

Budweiser is beer?

 

Budweiser is beer?

 

I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and
tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the
store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.