I broke off my Oxygen sensor

From this we learn a few things:

1) Yes, WD40 is mostly good at loosening money that was stuck in your
wallet.

2) Popular Mechanics is full of shite.

There are two and *only* two penetrants I mess with any more: Kroil and
Chrysler P/N 4318039.

 

"« Paul »" <"=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul
=?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?="@houston.rr.com> wrote in message

Yes. That never even dawned on me.
And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.

This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the
exhaust pipe until its removed...

Fwed

 

"« Paul »" <"=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul
=?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?="@houston.rr.com> wrote in message

Yes. That never even dawned on me.
And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.

This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the
exhaust pipe until its removed...

Fwed

 

So using that handy dandy WD40 spray can as room refresher is out,
then?
May all your Hondas keep running.

Remco

 

So using that handy dandy WD40 spray can as room refresher is out,
then?
May all your Hondas keep running.

Remco

 

Mainly, that you don't know how to spell shit!

nb

 

Mainly, that you don't know how to spell shit!

nb

 

It's a legitimate spelling.
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=shite

 

It's a legitimate spelling.
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=shite

 

Wow, that can be a tuff one.

My first choice; ox-ace heat, followed by the wrench
Another option that was said to me was try to tighten first, then back out.
This tip was from a old master tech that teaches tech courses. Now I tried
it once and it didn't work for me, but we still try (I think I used heat on
that one.)
He also said ATf is a good penetrate. get the part hot and pun some on it
and let it set overnight, the dissipating heat will wick it into the
threads.
I also have in my box a tap that is the 02 sensor size, wasn't easy to find,
but I ordered it before I needed it.
There also is an heli-coil set for thread repairs, sometimes they screw
themselves up on the way out
If you remove the manifold you could carry it to a vise or a machine shop.
Heat is always the best choice.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/

 

Wow, that can be a tuff one.

My first choice; ox-ace heat, followed by the wrench
Another option that was said to me was try to tighten first, then back out.
This tip was from a old master tech that teaches tech courses. Now I tried
it once and it didn't work for me, but we still try (I think I used heat on
that one.)
He also said ATf is a good penetrate. get the part hot and pun some on it
and let it set overnight, the dissipating heat will wick it into the
threads.
I also have in my box a tap that is the 02 sensor size, wasn't easy to find,
but I ordered it before I needed it.
There also is an heli-coil set for thread repairs, sometimes they screw
themselves up on the way out
If you remove the manifold you could carry it to a vise or a machine shop.
Heat is always the best choice.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/

 

I've used it as a gas starting fluid (old worn out carburetted cars,
sub-zero temps). It's good because it's not nearly as explosive as
ether, but it will still ignite easily enough to turn your engine over
and get it going.

 

I've used it as a gas starting fluid (old worn out carburetted cars,
sub-zero temps). It's good because it's not nearly as explosive as
ether, but it will still ignite easily enough to turn your engine over
and get it going.

 

He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces
left in the pipe.

It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I
would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind
of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what
happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you
just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at
Home Depot or somesuch.

In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing.
What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.

Lg

 

He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces
left in the pipe.

It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I
would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind
of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what
happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you
just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at
Home Depot or somesuch.

In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing.
What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.

Lg

 

Elle: 1 Mike: 0

Mike

 

Elle: 1 Mike: 0

Mike

 

Earlier on, I had recommended a tool that is used for metal piping. Its
a plumbers tool and when turned counterclockwise, it grabs the inside of
whats left and turns it out. It works so simply, its like you were just
taking the thing out without any effort. I think since he hasn't posted
back, he is probably out looking for the item....the set i have comes in 3
different sizes.

Fwed

 

Earlier on, I had recommended a tool that is used for metal piping. Its
a plumbers tool and when turned counterclockwise, it grabs the inside of
whats left and turns it out. It works so simply, its like you were just
taking the thing out without any effort. I think since he hasn't posted
back, he is probably out looking for the item....the set i have comes in 3
different sizes.

Fwed

 

"Schitt" is much more diplomatic...

<G>

JT