i think my joint is damaged on the wheel, but not sure

is the driving shaft the same as the CV shaft? I would assume its not.

So I know need CV shafts, driving shafts, and new boots?

 

A rebuilt drive shaft, CV shaft, or whatever you choose to call it will come
with new boots installed, and with a new locknut for the shaft end.

 

I just checked the otherside of my car and now noticed that the other
boot has the same problem. It appears that when the remove had the CV
joints replaced, that the idiots didn't change the boots, it makes no
sense at all, but its true. For a car that's 13 years old, you would
expect that they would, but I guess they are lazy.

I stopped at a place today, and the guy said I should be good. He'll
replace the boots for just $50+ parts. How does that sound?

Thanks

 

This means 1 of 2 things. Either the person who sold you the car is full of
shit and never replaced the CV shafts, or they replaced them with very poor
quality replacement axles.

You can't change the driveshafts (or CV Shafts, or Half Shafts, they are all
the same part called different things!) without doing the CV boots. It just
wouldn't happen. They are part of the shaft!

And you don't seem to be listening. Your boots are not just cracked, they
are TOAST. And you can't even tell us how long they have been like that for.
THIS MEANS that you need to replace the driveshafts. PERIOD.

You can spend you $50+ parts (probably will end up being about $100), but the
cv joints will inevitably start clicking in the not to distant future,
indicating that they are shot too. Now your back to your shop, and unloading
another $200-350.

Waste your money if you want (on just the boots) but don't come crying when
your in worse shape soon.

Why not take a look at a manual to see how important these parts actually are?
A little education can be a good thing.

t

 

How much for the parts?

I have never heard of boots going bad within a year, and certainly not both
sides. It makes no sense at all to replace only the CV joints and not the
boots, because torn boots are pretty much the only reason for a CV joint to
go bad. Something is very wrong... those CV joints were not changed last
year.

I have had boots go out in about 5 years in Phoenix, where the heat is
absolutely brutal, but 10 years is a more typical life span. Perhaps taking
the car to the shop that supposedly performed the service (if you have the
receipts or can get them) will get you some satisfaction. It's a cheap thing
to try. Maybe an approach like you saw those things obvously bad and wanted
to know how much to get it fixed and how long the new ones should last, then
bring out the receipts.

Mike

 

The OP is in a tight financial bind at the moment (gleaned from an earlier
post) so going the split-boot route makes sense if he has no recourse. It is
a case where "pay me later" is a lot better than "pay me now." Other than
that, I completely agree with you - replacement axle shafts is the way to
go.

Mike

 

I just checked the otherside of my car and now noticed that the other

It's obvious that the woman was ripped off. So froget about what was
doen and what was not.

How much would the part be? You really should consider replacing the
whole thing, i.e CV shaft (see the link below) by buying a rebuilt one
as someone suggested in this thread.

I did google search
Read at http://www.trustmymechanic.com/parts_gallery/cv_boot.htm

 

Keep your fuel tank full all the time and you can leave the fuel filter practically forever.

Really? I didn't know that. Why is that the case?

 

When I got my old Nissan (got rid of it in 1997) from my sister in 1995
- it was 87 model - she told me about the axel problem. The noise was
small and I ignored it and drove it until in mid 1996 when the noise
got louder. I changed the axel then. I put a new one at Mineke (came
with warranty though but on an old car, probably not worth spending
that much) because I didn't know that about rebuild one.

 

wrote in

It keeps water to a minimum in your tank. Water in your tank gets into the
lines, causing rust. That water and rust ends up in your fuel filter, and
then the water gets in the system downstream from the filter, which means
the regulator and injectors.

No water, no rust. No water, no frozen fuel lines in the winter, no stuck
fuel regulators.

Also, letting the tank run down allows the fuel pickup to suck up crud from
the bottom of the tank. Most of that is caught by the bag filter on the
fuel pickup, but each time you drive, a few more particles sneak through,
eventually being trapped by the fuel filter. If the tank is kept full, the
pickup is drawing fuel from well above the bottom of the tank, so the
chance of picking up crud is greatly minimized.

My tank is *never* allowed to sit overnight with less than 3/4 of a tank.
It's usually filled up all the way before I park for the night.

 

My tank is *never* allowed to sit overnight with less than 3/4 of a tank.

I am getting a new car tomorrow. I'll do the same.

Thanks for the info and tips.