igniter,coil or distributor on 91 Civic??

Discussion in 'Civic' started by Ropert's Aloha, Dec 12, 2004.

  1. I have a 91 Civic Hatchback,5spd,1500cc eng. that has run and run. It's got
    178kmiles. Over the years I've replaced the igniter and then the whole
    distributor about 2 years ago(carquest). Now I'm starting to have symptoms
    that I am nearing another problem. After a short drive to a store it
    wouldn't start today. It finally did after some praying and being ready to
    tow it! It also cut out on me driving home one day, but by the time I pulled
    over to the side of the road, the engine was running again.

    Q. Should I replace just the igniter for about $90? Or the coil for about
    $80? or both? or just swap out the whole unit for about $340 and change from
    either Napa or Carquest(the main parts dealers out here in Hawaii.

    thanks in advance

    Gary
    Haleiwa. Hawaii
     
    Ropert's Aloha, Dec 12, 2004
    #1
  2. Ropert's Aloha

    TeGGer® Guest



    Perhaps...
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#MainRelay
     
    TeGGer®, Dec 12, 2004
    #2
  3. Ropert's Aloha

    whybcuz Guest

    Hi Gary

    Are you sure you are losing spark when this happens? Intermittent
    stalling can happen for a variety of reasons. Maybe put a spark tester
    in your glovebox so you can make sure next time.

    If you do lose spark, next time you see it fail, put a small 12V bulb
    across the coil's primary and see if it flashes when you try to start
    the car. If so, it is not the ignitor - check the coil or beyond.

    Even if it doesn't flash, be sure to check the connections to the
    ignitor.
    The ignitor is just a larger transistor - intermittent internal contact
    on a transistor is very rare.

    Regards,
    Remco
     
    whybcuz, Dec 12, 2004
    #3
  4. Ropert's Aloha

    SoCalMike Guest

    could be the infamous "main relay" or even possibly the ignition switch.
    your igniter and distributor should still be good. should...
     
    SoCalMike, Dec 12, 2004
    #4
  5. How expensive is a main relay? If it's cheap enough, maybe I'll replace it
    and see what happens...
     
    Ropert's Aloha, Dec 12, 2004
    #5
  6. Also note that when the main relay fails completely, there's no
    spark since ECU's power derives from the main relay. Since the
    igniter's trigger adjusts and resides within the ECU. One other
    thing, Helm Service Manuals or diagnostic technicians use the
    spelling, "Igniter" unlike what most do, "Ignitor." Ignitor, however,
    is the most widly used on Usenet at a ratio of 14:9.
     
    Burt Squareman, Dec 12, 2004
    #6
  7. "Ropert's Aloha" wrote
    Sounds like your fuel pump's cutting out. Most likely from the main
    relay or ignition switch as Mike suggested.. I'd follow Tegger's link
    deeper. It can teach you how to remove, reflow the solder, using solder
    with additional silver.
     
    Burt Squareman, Dec 12, 2004
    #7
  8. Ropert's Aloha

    Graham W Guest

    See the article PGM-FI on my website (in sig) which your experience
    describes exactly the symptoms I had. Clean up the distributor cap
    inside and out before buying anything.

    HTH
     
    Graham W, Dec 12, 2004
    #8
  9. Ropert's Aloha

    motsco_ _ Guest

    ---------------------------------

    Slip it out, walk into a TV repair shop with a big box of assorted
    donuts / muffins. Ask them to resolder it and you'll be back in the game
    for 200,000 more miles. :)

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_ _, Dec 12, 2004
    #9
  10. Ropert's Aloha

    TeGGer® Guest

    "Graham W" <> floridly penned in


    May I link to your site in the FAQ?
     
    TeGGer®, Dec 14, 2004
    #10
  11. Ropert's Aloha

    TCS Guest

    Take it to a mechanic. The diagnostic charge of $60 will be recouped
    several times over compared to your shotgun approach.

    Make one mistake like replacing a good ignitor and you'll be out $90.
     
    TCS, Dec 14, 2004
    #11
  12. Ropert's Aloha

    TCS Guest


    Geeze. Learn how to test it. Instead of pissing away $30 on a part that may
    be good, get a meter and learn how to use it.
     
    TCS, Dec 14, 2004
    #12
  13. Ropert's Aloha

    TCS Guest

    riiiiight. First they'll have to crack it open and likely ruin it.
     
    TCS, Dec 14, 2004
    #13
  14. Ropert's Aloha

    TCS Guest


    What the hell is the matter with you?! Learn how to test the thing before you
    resolder it!

    I'm reminded of a friend who had absolutely no diagnostic skills. He had a car
    that wouldn't start and he was dismantling the dash. I suggested he check the
    air in the tires (as a joke) and next thing you know he was checking the tires.
    I took over; checked the ignition by pulling a spark plug and cranking the
    engine (ow!), next was the fuel. Did the fuel guage work? Car was out
    of gas. Duh... uh... I don't think dismantling the dash did much good.

    Just like dismantling the fuel pump won't do much good for a bad ignition coil.
     
    TCS, Dec 14, 2004
    #14
  15. Ropert's Aloha

    Graham W Guest

    Hello TeGGer & group members

    Yes! I'd prefer that you embed a link to my front page for the sake
    of my page hit counter and guidance to click on 'Miscellanea' then
    the 'Rover216GSi' link.

    As you will be aware, but others may not, the Rover of this era and
    model is the Honda 1.6 ltr SOHC engine and Concerto (in UK) car.
    Do you think I should provide extra wording in the second link to
    indicate equivalent USA models and, if so, what are they called?

    Rgds to all.
     
    Graham W, Dec 15, 2004
    #15
  16. Ropert's Aloha

    TeGGer® Guest


    I was going to simply link to:
    http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm
    which is the relevant page. I'm worried that if I link to Miscellanea
    people will get lost. Nobody over here knows what a Rover 216 is.


    A clarification for North American viewers would be nice.

    Honda models as I can remember:
    Honda
    -----
    Civic
    Prelude
    Accord
    Element
    CR-V
    Odyssey

    Acura
    -----
    Integra
    Vigor
    Legend
    EL
    TL
    RL
    RSX
    TSX
    MDX

    Maybe more? Corrections are welcome.

    The Rover 216 is probably Civic-based.
     
    TeGGer®, Dec 15, 2004
    #16
  17. Ropert's Aloha

    Graham W Guest

    You see, that link will miss the home page counter but I do take your
    point.

    OK, I'll put a page counter on the article itself and then direct
    references
    will still get counted. (This is only for personal interest - there are no
    commercial orgs involved in counting hits other than the counter
    supplier.)
    Thanks. I'll do a bit of extra intro text on the article page as a first
    para
    to broaden the vehicles covered to those, as above, which use the
    PGM-FI system which should help visitors to realise the relevance.

    Thanks
     
    Graham W, Dec 15, 2004
    #17
  18. Ropert's Aloha

    E. Meyer Guest

    Insight
    S2000
    Pilot
    Passport (Honda-badged Isusu Rodeo)
    Ridgeline Truck (new)
     
    E. Meyer, Dec 15, 2004
    #18
  19. Ropert's Aloha

    jim beam Guest

    relax cowboy. intermittent faults, by definition, don't always show up
    on testing. as the main relay is one of the commonest failures on a
    civic that vintage, and the symptoms the op is describing /do/ match
    some of those commonly described for a relay fault, d.i.y.
    replacement/resoldering /is/ both cost effective relative to taking it
    to a shop, /and/ is likely to fix the problem.
     
    jim beam, Dec 15, 2004
    #19
  20. Ropert's Aloha

    Seraphim Guest

    My experience with the relay was that it was very easy to test. Just wait
    till your car won't start, then hit the relay with a hammer while
    cranking the engine. Every time I did this my car would start up right
    away. I eventually replaced the relay figuring that something that needed
    to be hit with a hammer probably didn't have to much more life left in
    it.
     
    Seraphim, Dec 15, 2004
    #20
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