Integra clutch questions

So I flushed out the clutch fluid and replaced the master cylinder about
2000 miles ago (97 GSR).

Q1: Is it normal for the clutch fluid to be getting dark already?
Q2: Since clutch fluid doesn't really have problems with boiling, does
that mean that water absorption is not really an issue?
Q3: The clutch does appear to be catching a bit high (not sure if it was
always like that). It first engages about 2 inches off the floor, and
get fully engaged maybe 1" from the top. I heard you can't adjust these
hydraulic clutches, but how can I tell there is no pressure on the
throwout bearing with my foot off the pedal?

I guess one benefit is that now I can shift faster coz I don't have to
press the pedal all the way down.

 

Did you change the pushrod length? I've no experience myself but there's a
special tool for setting it but most people report just leaving it as is
works OK.

Which brand of fluid did you use? It's normal for some darkening.

It's still an issue with corrosion of the master cylnder bore. It's my
belief that the fluid in the clutch hydrailcs should be changed more often
than in the brakes. The full stroke on every application is harder on the
seals and means that more ambient air is drawn in to the reservoir, which
allows more moisture to enter. It's also a quick job - 15mins or so.

Yes you can only check the free play on the pushrod and adjust as
necessary.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

I did leave the pushrod length alone (it was nearly the same as the
original master cylinder). It seems like adjusting it only affects the
free play in the pedal (you know, the first 1/4-1/2 inch where the pedal
is soft). Is the special tool you are referring to a cone wrench?

I used Castrol GTLMA. I would say it looks about as dark as new motor
oil (maybe a little lighter).

Does this means that the clutch can't "self-adjust" itself anymore
because the friction material is becoming too thin? How does the
"self-adjusting" mechanism work anyway? In that case, I may as well
lower the pedal a bit since I don't need the last inch of travel anyway.

 

Sorry - I got confused between the brake, which needs the special tool and
clutch pushrod, which doesn't. The clutch pushrod clearance is just set by
the pedal stroke of ~5.25" measured at the center of the pedal pad.

Sounds OK to me but if you have doubts it's easy enough to flush/bleed some
fresh fluid in. The coloring could be just due to remnants of some
treatment in the new master cylinder bore to prevent corrosion in storage.

AFAIK, the "self adjustment" is just the slave cylinder piston being pushed
further back in its cylinder when the clutch is disengaged. I'd set the
pedal height to what it's supposed to be according to the Helm manual. If
you change it, your going to have to mess with the clutch switch.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??