Integra Won't Crank

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Challenged, Nov 25, 2006.

  1. Challenged

    Challenged Guest

    Whew! I am glad to see so many contributions in trying to sort out
    this problem. I have a rebuilt start on order and I will inform
    everyone of the outcome. Here is a summary of the problem, thus far,
    starting with turn of the key:

    Symptom
    1) Turn key (All the while ensuring both steering wheel and AT shift
    are in normal positions).
    2) In Position 1 (Between O and start) - I hear the Main Relay in
    action ~2 seconds. This means fuel is being delivered.
    3) In Position Start - Nothing. No crank. No turning over. Just dead
    silence. Identical to a very dead battery, except my lights could
    still be powered on.
    4) I would try this over and over again. Some times within 3-10 turns,
    I would get the thing started. There have been two occasions where it
    sat dead in my driveway for hours.

    Changes to this point
    1) Replaced battery.
    2) Replaced ignition switch, which is attached to and activated by the
    key.

    My course of action
    1) Replace starter.
    2) Replace ignition coil assembly and probably the entire distributor
    assembly (While I'm at it). This is absolute last resort, as it costs
    major $$$.

    Anything I've missed?
     
    Challenged, Nov 29, 2006
    #21
  2. Challenged

    nm5k Guest

    Why change the coil and distributor? Has nothing to do with your
    problem. You are better off diagnosing the problem, rather than
    throwing money at it helter skelter.
    Say fer instance your first problem was as described. Random starting.
    The first thing to do would be to test the solenoid. You can do that by
    unhooking the normal wire from terminal S and running a jumper with
    12v to the S terminal, and see if it cranks.
    If it failed to start, the solenoid or starter is bad. If it did start
    and sound
    normal, you have a bad switch somewhere in the line. You could also
    have a
    voltmeter connected to the S terminal, and just watch it from the
    drivers
    seat to see if it's the switch, or solenoid. If you read 12v every time
    you
    turn the key, the solenoid is bad. Or starter..
    Most likely the starter will fix the problem, but I would have tested
    for
    voltage to the solenoid before I coughed up any dough. Could be a
    toasted
    wire or connection. Probably not in this case, but you never know..
    You shouldn't guess when working on a machine, unless you have no
    choice. If you diagnose the problem, you only buy the needed part, not
    half the electrical system. Save a lot of time too.. You might wanna
    invest
    in a cheap VOM if you don't have one. They sell decent digi versions
    pretty
    cheap these days.
    MK
     
    nm5k, Nov 30, 2006
    #22
  3. Challenged

    Matt Ion Guest

    Actually, yes: since you have an automatic, it may be the shift interlock (my
    Hondas have all been standard, so I didn't think of that initially). I don't
    know about Hondas, but I've seen it fairly often in Dodges, where that switch
    gets flaky, either electrically or mechanically. In our '96 Caravan, the
    selector sometimes doesn't quite slip into the Park position (the tranny itself
    does, it's just the part in the column that displays the gear selected and
    triggers the interlock) and it won't start unless I put it in Neutral, or
    sometimes slip the shifter down to a lower gear and slam it back into Park.

    Since the interlock is typically in the wire between the key and the solenoid, a
    flaky one will cause the complete lack of response you describe. Next time it
    doesn't start, try putting the shifter in Neutral and then crank it.

    The coil and distributor have NO relation at all to the starter; replacing them
    won't hurt, but it won't solve this problem.
     
    Matt Ion, Nov 30, 2006
    #23
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