linear shift solenoid goes bad too often

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by ExtremeValue, May 11, 2007.

  1. ExtremeValue

    ExtremeValue Guest

    I had this problem with my 1996 civic before. With an warm engine,
    shifting from 2 to 3 causes the engine to rev very high for fraction
    of a second. I took it to a Honda dealer and they said "Transmission
    has a flare". They asked me to replace the transmission.

    Then I took it to Aamco and they said linear shift solenoid need to be
    replaced. It was replaced and the problem recurred in 3 months. I
    asked them to go for Honda parts this time. They did that (as they
    said). Again after 1 year the same problem.

    It has 228K km, coolant level is okay, Transmission fluid is OK
    (changed a year ago and its pink), regularly changing oils from Honda
    dealership.

    I know it will cost me another 400 dollars to replace the solenoid.
    Any idea why its going bad so frequently? Thanks.
     
    ExtremeValue, May 11, 2007
    #1
  2. ExtremeValue

    Charles Guest

    Perhaps the first replacement solenoid was not new. It may have been on its
    last legs.

    There could also be a problem in the transmission control conputer. Solenoids
    need a surge of current when first turned on to pull it in and then considerably
    less to remain activated. Maybe the control unit is not reducing the current
    flow through the solenoid after that first inrush thereby cooking it. That
    might cause it to fail prematurely.

    Have you checked the transmission computer for error signals? When the ignition
    is on, a light-emitting diode may flash on the computer module. The number of
    flashes, if any, indicates which problem the computer is experiencing. I don't
    know where that is on a '96 Civic - probably under the carpet under the
    passenger's feet.
     
    Charles, May 12, 2007
    #2
  3. ExtremeValue

    jim beam Guest

    i don't think it's just the solenoid. while they can and do go wrong,
    if the motor's flaring, it's much more likely a problem with the general
    condition of the motor.

    my experience is that basically, the transmission expects the motor to
    produce a certain amount of power in a certain amount of time in the
    event of a downshift. if it's too sluggish, the clutches don't lock and
    the motor flares. my 89 civic was chronic for this when i first got it.
    and that's why the previous owner sold it - they'd been told it needed
    a new transmission as some frightful expense.

    so, i came in and sorted the motor out, adjusted the shift cable
    properly, etc. and now the car's fine.

    checklist includes making sure the cam belt is correctly tensioned,
    ignition timing is correct, all the ignition components are in good
    order, the valves are adjusted correctly, egr system is ok, transmission
    fluid is ok, coolant levels good with thermostat working correctly, etc.
    take care of all the little things that can affect general engine
    health, i bet this problem disappears like mine did.
     
    jim beam, May 12, 2007
    #3
  4. ExtremeValue

    ExtremeValue Guest

    Hi Jim

    In my case its downshifting okay but the problem is with upshifting
    from 2 to 3. If I press on gas pedal a bit harder (than what I usually
    do) the shifting has no problem. What I will do is to have these
    responses printed and take them to my mechanic. I like to get this
    things sorted. The car is otherwise fine.

    By the way, what motor you are talking about? Is it related to the
    engine or the transmission? (Sorry, I have no idea about auto
    engines).
     
    ExtremeValue, May 14, 2007
    #4
  5. ExtremeValue

    jim beam Guest

    i would caution you on who you go to. you don't want to pay $400 for a
    $110 part. and you want someone who knows more than "replace the
    transmission".
    i would recommend you take care of the general condition things with the
    motor and see what effect that has first. change the fluid on the
    transmission one more time too.
    mine's the 89 with the d15 motor. it has a "kickdown" cable and lockup
    clutch solenoid but no shift solenoids like yours. i did have a
    solenoid go bad in a way that it would trigger code on one ecu, but not
    another. i figured my old ecu was bad and replaced that for $35 at my
    local junk yard. as a diagnostic tool, you can try that too. you can
    always sell it again if it turns out to be unnecessary.
     
    jim beam, May 14, 2007
    #5
  6. ExtremeValue

    Charles Guest

    I should also mention that if you have the solenoid connectors apart, measure
    the resistance of the solenoids to ground. They're usually less than a few
    dozen ohms. If they show several hundred ohms, they're bad. That increased
    resistance causes them to heat up more quickly. A hot solenoid core saturates
    magnetically and won't release leading to the flaring.
     
    Charles, May 15, 2007
    #6
  7. ExtremeValue

    jim beam Guest

    alternatively, solenoids that run hot cook their flyback diodes and in
    turn fry the ecu. after a while anyway.
     
    jim beam, May 15, 2007
    #7
  8. ExtremeValue

    ExtremeValue Guest

    I took it to my mechanic and he took it for a test drive, opened hood
    and inspected something while somebody started the engine (put it in
    drive and also at reverse). After that, he said "if you wanna believe
    me, your transmission and everything is fine". He also asked me not to
    pay too much attention while driving.

    May be he is right, may be he is wrong. I came back home. That's the
    end for now.

    I found a forum post at http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=112967.
    This is exactly the same problem as I was/am facing:

    =========starts====================
    transmission flare when shifting

    Have a 96, 4.0 ohv, 114000 miles on it. Transmission flares when
    shifting from 2nd to 3rd under light load. This does not happen all
    the
    time, but enough to have me worried. Seems to happen only when trans
    is
    at operating temp, never when cold. Have read up on this problem, some
    say a bad gasket on the valve body or loose valve body bolts will
    cause
    this. I have a B&M Shift-Plus electronic shift kit that is supposed to
    tighten up the shift. Would it help to install it? I don't hot rod,
    just
    want max life out of the truck.
    Thanks,
    Jack
    ==========ends===================
     
    ExtremeValue, May 16, 2007
    #8
  9. ExtremeValue

    jim beam Guest

    see how it goes.
    different type of transmission - has planetary gears and clutch bands.
    adjusting the bands usually fixes that.
     
    jim beam, May 16, 2007
    #9
  10. ExtremeValue

    Charles Guest

    Did he experience the flare problem or did it not appear for him?
    If there really is a problem, it will get worse. Perhaps the problem will even
    be exhibited when the system is cold.

    By the way, you can have someone check the resistance of the solenoids even when
    the transmission is cold. Bad ones will still show a very high reading on an
    ohmmeter.
     
    Charles, May 17, 2007
    #10
  11. ExtremeValue

    ExtremeValue Guest

    It seems that he did not feel the flare problem. It only occurs when
    pressing the gas "unusually" low.

    It does not show when cold. Cold transmission shifts good.

    I've adjusted my foot and now the problem seems to be disappearing.
     
    ExtremeValue, May 24, 2007
    #11
  12. ExtremeValue

    jim beam Guest

    did you get the motor maintained so it's operating as well as it can?
     
    jim beam, May 25, 2007
    #12
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