location of idle adusting screw and idel specificaition - 98 honda civic 1.5 L

Discussion in 'Civic' started by kala, Feb 2, 2006.

  1. kala

    Elle Guest

    You're right. So Kala, check what SoCalMike said first.

    When you all get enough money together, for the best genuine Honda O2 sensor
    prices I have seen, see https://www.automedicsupply.com/catalog4.php?#

    By the way, by my parts sources, I think your engine is 1.6L. (I know:
    That's got to be the least of your worries.)
     
    Elle, Feb 6, 2006
    #21
  2. kala

    Elle Guest

    I don't see your picture.

    www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (after putting in your car's info) has a
    drawing of the exhaust manifold with the oxygen sensor, if there's still
    doubt.
     
    Elle, Feb 6, 2006
    #22
  3. kala

    kala Guest

    We was going to get a realiable tech meter but the point is already moot. Of
    course I would not tinker with the idle if I did not have a good meter, and
    if i did not have to. I am trying to convince my brother to change the O2
    sensor to the OEM type. well at least now people now its the one on the
    manifold that we changed. so i'll leave it up to him.
     
    kala, Feb 8, 2006
    #23
  4. kala

    Elle Guest

    I had been wondering what "tech meter" was. You mean "tachometer."
     
    Elle, Feb 8, 2006
    #24
  5. kala

    TeGGeR® Guest



    Why do you keep calling it a "tech meter"?



    No it's not. You haven't done anything to make it moot yet. The problem
    remains.
     
    TeGGeR®, Feb 9, 2006
    #25
  6. While I agree changing the idle screw won't help, what I've found is that
    crud builds up under the idle screw between the throttle body and the
    manifold. Cleaning that out made a huge difference to my idle.

    Nobody seems to have mentioned it but, the most common causes of rough
    idle are

    1) Dirty throttle body

    2) Dirty IAC

    3) Carbon buildup.

    4) Dirty injectors.

    5) Vacuum leaks.

    I'd clean the throttle body and IAC with INDUCTION CLEANER (not carb
    cleaner which will destroy the IAC). Then I'd run a decent injector
    cleaner through it like BG44K. BG44K cleans the injectors and removes
    built up carbon.

    I assume you've already looked for and fixed any vacuum leaks.
     
    Dufus Systems, Feb 13, 2006
    #26
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