Long-term storage of a Honda

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Cameo, Sep 23, 2010.

  1. Cameo

    Cameo Guest

    I may be staying overseas for upto 6 months and I wonder how to leave my
    car so I can use it again without any lasting damage. I know as much to
    leave it on some blocks to prevent tire damage but what else?
     
    Cameo, Sep 23, 2010
    #1
  2. Cameo

    Tegger Guest



    Reposting of the answer I gave to an identical question back on the 14th of
    this month (but for a 2010 Honda):

    The trickle-charger is an excellent idea. That way you don't need to
    disconnect the battery.

    Adding Sta-Bil to the gas is an imperative these days, so you MUST use it.
    And use it according to the label on the bottle. Do not add more than
    specified because you think "more" must be "better".

    Other things you need to do:
    1) Change the engine oil.
    2) Pump-up the tires to the maximum shown on the sidewall. This will
    minimize flat-spotting.
    3) Make sure the gas tank is completely full.
    4) After changing the oil and adding Sta-Bil, take the car for a half-hour
    drive, preferably with some highway involved. This gets the engine good and
    hot, plus it helps distribute the Sta-Bil throughout the gas in the tank,
    and helps make sure Sta-Bil ends up in the fuel lines and the injectors.
    5) Park the car, shut it off for good, and do not drive it any more.

    Given that you're working with a car this new, there should be no need to
    raise the tires off the ground unless you've noticed a slow leak in any of
    the tires. If you suspect the tires may go flat during your absence, place
    jack stands under the control arms, NOT under the rocker panels or subframe
    rails. You need the suspension to stay under normal compression while the
    car is idle.
     
    Tegger, Sep 24, 2010
    #2
  3. Cameo

    jim beam Guest

    but not any trickle charger - the old ones will soon dehydrate the
    battery. it needs to be the modern "intelligent" type that knows when
    the battery is charged, then reduces current accordingly. the better
    modern ones have a "desulfate" mode which will not only keep charged but
    also condition the battery during storage.

    if not done recently with a quality product, i would suggest changing
    the antifreeze. use a modern long-life product, and dilute only with
    distilled, or deionized water. do NOT dilute with tap or softened water
    - it introduces chemicals that can increase or start corrosion.
     
    jim beam, Sep 24, 2010
    #3
  4. Cameo

    Dabbler Guest

    Thanks, Tegger, and sorry for missing the original post. What Subject
    was it under? Anyway, I'm glad you wrote that the car can be left on
    fully inflated tires and I'm glad I read about Sta-Bil for the first
    time right here from you.
    In my case the only problem is the oil change that I just can't do at
    home.
    As to the trickle charger, do you or Jim have any suggestion as to the
    brand?
     
    Dabbler, Sep 24, 2010
    #4
  5. Cameo

    Cameo Guest

    Oops! I just realized I've sent my reply from a different server that
    still has my old user ID "Dabbler." My bad ...
     
    Cameo, Sep 24, 2010
    #5
  6. Cameo

    Boomer Guest

    Tegger, the trickle charger could actually turn out to be a bad thing. Many
    are made with no automatic shutoff when maximum charge is reached. I left
    one such trickle charger on a ford one winter. The battery was ruined and
    dried out when spring arrived. Even a single amp of charge over months of
    charging will ruin a battery. Any battery charger with an automatic shutoff
    will work for him. I know. I have used one since the trickle charger
    incident. It is a 12 amp automatic charger. It keeps the battery good all
    winter. If you go out in the garage and look at it, you will see no charge
    going on. If you wait long enough, you will see the meter snap up and right
    back down. It is maintaining the charge without overcharging.

    Michael
     
    Boomer, Sep 24, 2010
    #6
  7. Cameo

    Boomer Guest

    The only thing I can suggest is going to an auto parts store and asking for
    an automatic charger. Any amperage value is OK as long as it is automatic.
    Do no go to Walmart. I did that and had to bring their great little digital
    readout charger back to them. It would automatically charge up the battery
    and the shut off. It would never turn on again unless you unplugged it and
    started it over each time. Piece of $#@*

    I have two automatic chargers. Both are 12 amp. You can usually return a
    charger to an auto parts store if it does not shut off when charging is
    complete or turn back on in a few minutes to pulse a tiny bit more energy
    into the battery.

    Again, The size of the charger is not important. The automatic sensing
    circuitry will make all the difference in the world for the health of your
    battery.

    Michael
     
    Boomer, Sep 24, 2010
    #7
  8. Cameo

    Tegger Guest



    Your description is better than mine. Any charger left attached for long
    periods /definitely must/ have a reliable shutoff. All it needs to do is
    return the battery to its fully-charged state, then stop until needed
    again.

    Modern cars have large parasitic draws, and their batteries will go flat in
    about two weeks without regular top-up, so the charger is necessary if the
    battery is not to be disconnected.

    Leaving the battery connected preserves the radio anti-theft codes, the
    engine idle-learn, and the transmission's grade-logic, so that's better
    than disconnecting it.
     
    Tegger, Sep 24, 2010
    #8
  9. Cameo

    starrin Guest

    I have had a trickle charger from this outfit maintaining the battery
    on my "Hurricane" generator for the past 10 years. Same battery, same
    charger. Unit has never failed to start, though genertor is rarely
    used rarely. Last started last month when the last storm threatened.
    Yes, I use stabil and change oil, etc.
    http://batterytender.com/automotive/battery-tender-plus-12v-at-1-25a.html
     
    starrin, Sep 25, 2010
    #9
  10. Cameo

    Dillon Pyron Guest

    Don't use deionized water. It will accellerate corrosion. This is a
    major problem in live steam model railroading, where some noobs think
    that "if distilled water is good, deionized water is gooder"

    But yes, distilled water. Actually, always distilled water if you
    have to cut your antifreeze. The less crap (minerals) you put into
    your system the less that will find a permanent home.
    --

    - dillon I am not invalid

    Toby (Tri-Umph That's the Sweet Truth)
    March 1998 - June 2010
    What a dog. What a dog!
     
    Dillon Pyron, Sep 28, 2010
    #10
  11. Cameo

    jim beam Guest

    you seem to be confusing "deionized" with "softened". softened water
    will indeed accelerate corrosion. deionized will not because -
    amazingly - the ions that cause the electrolytic corrosion process have
    been removed.

    http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/antifreeze-faq.htm#q20

    distilled or deionized.

    correct. but don't confuse deionized and softened.
     
    jim beam, Sep 28, 2010
    #11
  12. Cameo

    jim beam Guest

    google for "battery tender" and you'll get suggestions. it's the ones
    that "maintain" offer the ability to keep connected long term.
     
    jim beam, Sep 28, 2010
    #12
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