Lug nut Torque - 06 Civic Si

Just wanted to double-check this. I have never tightened the lug nuts
on tires using any method other than "as tight as you can get them",
using either a wrench or an impact gun. Since I am worried about the
potential of warping the rotors, I bought a torque wrench and today I
replaced the wheels on my 06 Civic Si.

The specs I found said 80 ft/lbs. This is what I did. It really
doesn't seem all that tight, though. Is this the right torque, or was
I mislead? Last thing I want is a wheel coming off at speed, and I DO
like to drive hard... ;-)

 

Lug nuts have no bearing at all on rotors. Torque for lug nuts is for
1. Safety
2. Alloy rims and safety

 

It is the correct torque. 80 ft-lbs puts a LOT of clamping force on the
wheel.

Too many clueless people seem to think the "correct" torque is the figure
where they need to jump on the ratchet to achieve it.

At 80 ft-lbs you will have no problems with wheels coming loose. Nor will
you have problems with studs snapping off.

 

80 ft/lbs has been the correct torque for Honda wheels for as long as I can
remember.

 

I am pretty sure you are wrong on this. I have read many reports, as
well as talked to several mechanics, who have stated that over-torque
on lug nuts on single thickness (non-ventilated) rotors will cause
warping.

I am no expert, by far, but I have already seen a difference. The
front wheels were making noise when torqued up, and the noise has
disappeared at 80 ft/lbs.

 

Thanks Teg. It just FEELS to light... ;-)

It's the way most of us were taught by Dad... ;-)

Exactly what I needed. As always, appreciate the good info.

 

Hey, this is my first Honda. While I've had it since new, I've never
changed a tire on it before...

Hell, this is my first car with alloy wheels... ;-)

 

That's why people break fasteners (I'll turn the wrench juuuust a little
more...).

You need to learn the "feel" that comes with approaching correct torque.
There's a sudden ramp-up in turning effort that is your clue.

My dad was a mechanical engineer. I still have his old beam-type torque
wrench.

You're welcome.

 

Still have mine.. was using it back in the 60s when I bought it at Sears.

 

Dad's old beam-type is the "DURO" brand, No. 8099½ (no I'm not kidding;
there really is a one-half symbol in there), made by Duro Metal Products of
Chicago. The unit calls itself a "Tension Indicator". Reads up to 100 ft
lbs.

Here it is:
<http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/torque_wrench_comparing_2.jpg>

 

not permanent warping, but elastic distortion that makes the brakes
shudder. if you take the disk off, you can see how skinny the honda hub
is. it's strong enough for the job, but has no excess weight, therefore
no excess stiffness. easy to elastically distort under uneven lug nut
loading.

that's usual.

with alloys though, you need to re-torque them after a few miles from
re-fitting. they tend to move about on the hub a little and the lug
nuts loosen. after that, they're fine.

 

how did they compare?

 

Hi,
No bearing on rotor? If you tighten it too mcuh you can warp the rotor
(specially the non cast iron rotor; punched one)

 

It was weird.

The Duro read a max of about 10% off either way from the clicker setting
when the clicker clicked. The clicker's advertised tolerance is 4% up or
down. I figured something had to be wrong with my setup, but I can't figure
out what that might have been. The barrel of the clicker was NOT distorted
at all by the vise. I checked with a mike.