Master cyl replacement on 1990 LX advice

I have to replace the master cyl as it has started leaking down when
you hold pressure on the peddle. Any tricks to the replacement? I
assume Honda has dual system. For purposes of bleeding, are the 2
circuits front-back, left-right, or left front/right rear-right
front/left rear?? Is it necessary to adjust the push rod and piston
clearance? I didn't see a place to do this. I went through all of the
repair manuals at my library and they did not cover master cyl
replacement other wise I would not have had to ask you all. Thanks

 

Why a complete Master Cylinder (MC) cylinder replacement?

If it's just your piston's seals that are bad -- letting "flowby" --
and not anything wrong with the walls of the cylinder itself
(corroded/pitted) then see if there is a MC Rebuild KIT...lots cheaper
and it'll just take your time (labor).

John D.

 

I considered that but alol it takes is one pit that I miss and i am
back to square one. I bit the bullet and ordered a new one. After 13
years and only one fluid change, i didn't hold out much hope. I did
find out how to bleed the cyl with out doing the whole system but will
probably so so anyway.

thanks Bob

 

Okay, worth a try though since you Do have to remove the old one and
can look at it (my 1973 Datsun 1200 has the original MC and it's had
NO kit in it yet)...you might get lucky! ;-)

But get a Haynes Repair manual (about $15) for your car...you need
something like that if you're going to work on your own car. Or, go
down to Pep Boys/AutoZone and page through an open one (without
shrinkwrap) to see what's involved...but I think you should get your
own copy.

Good luck,

John D.

 

I'll take a look for the manual.

Bob

 

I changed my master cylinder on 90 Accord Ex a couple of weeks ago. A
rebuild kit cost can$40 and the whole rebuild cylinder cost Can$60, so
I didn't bother to rebuild it myself. It came with 2 tubings and
fittings. To bench bleed the master cylinder,Just hook it up, fill the
master cylinder with brake fluid, make sure the tubings are submerged
below the fluid, push the rod with a stick or something until all air
is out. Once that is done, you can take the fittings out and cap it
with the cap that came with the cylinder. The most difficult part is
to undo the brake line from the old master cylinder. Suppose to use a
flare nut wrench, I used a long nose locking plier on the wrench so
the wrench won't open and strip the nut. Once that is done, you are
home free. Remove the old master cylinder, put the new one in. And
bleed all 4 wheel cylinders until no air comes out. You will notice
the difference when braking, the pedal won't go all the way down. Good
Luck.