More frugal? Keep car or trade often?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by me6, Jun 24, 2004.

  1. i wonder if i could get away with following that on my 98?[/QUOTE]

    No. The cooling system is physically different for newer models,
    designed to use the long-life coolant.

    The factory fill is good until 105K miles, then refills are good for 60K
    miles. But that technology was new with the 99 Odyssey, and was not
    part of the 98-02 generation Accords.
     
    Elmo P. Shagnasty, Jun 26, 2004
    #41
  2. No. The cooling system is physically different for newer models,
    designed to use the long-life coolant.[/QUOTE]

    I don't think so.... unless you have better details on what's different.
    Yes it was... started with the 2001 MY Accord. The system design is the
    same and the only difference was the new Type 2 coolant. We got a late
    2000 Accord and I'm pretty sure it has the new coolant in it - distinctive
    smell.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, Jun 26, 2004
    #42
  3. me6

    SoCalMike Guest

    do you see yourself having to do all that again next year?

    if youre spending $1500/year to keep a hooptie on the road, maybe
    $250/mo for 5 years isnt a bad alternative to drive a new car.

    ive had my car 6 years, and ive done the normal PM stuff myself twice...
    probably $100 or less each time, the oil changes, new tires and a new O2
    sensor. probably $700 over 6 years.

    even the VW i had averaged maybe $700/yr in repairs, and thats
    amortizing a rebuilt engine over the 7 years i kept the damn thing.
    depends on how much you can do yourself. parts are usually cheap- its
    the labor that kills you.
     
    SoCalMike, Jun 26, 2004
    #43
  4. I don't think so.... unless you have better details on what's different.[/QUOTE]

    The radiator's different, for one.
     
    Elmo P. Shagnasty, Jun 26, 2004
    #44
  5. me6

    TomP Guest

    For local commuting to work, might I suggest the
    following:
    Buy a two thousand dollar beater. Insure it with
    minimum liability coverage (or none at all if you don't
    have pot to piss in or window to throw it out of.)
    Drive that car into the ground for a year or two, then
    buy another.
    When you need to make a long trip, rent a car, or, take
    the bus, plane or a train. You'll save a ton of $...

    --
    Tp,

    -------- __o
    ----- -\<. -------- __o
    --- ( )/ ( ) ---- -\<.
    -------------------- ( )/ ( )
     
    TomP, Jun 26, 2004
    #45
  6. The radiator's different, for one.[/QUOTE]

    You'll need more than that. In MY 1999 (as close as I can tell), Honda
    added Valeo as a radiator supplier... that's in addition to, AFAICT, Denso.

    As already noted the 2001/2 Accords have the 105K mile 1st coolant change
    and the change to Type 2 coolant was some time in the 2K MY.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, Jun 26, 2004
    #46
  7. me6

    pars Guest

    Can do 0-60 faster then 8.6.
    Quicker at getting to the 195km/hr speed limiter.
    Better fuel consumption the norm.
    If your car is quick, it might be an extremely bad idea to sell. When considering fuel
    efficiency and sportinesss, there's nothing on market that compares. If you took an Echo
    Hatch, dropped it and add all the TRD options, a similarly modified 2000 Civic Hatch would
    drive circles around it. A none turbo Mini Cooper would never be able to keep up with my
    98 DX Hatch (around the turns and on the straighaway) and the Mini will burn about 15%
    more gas. (however the Cooper is loaded while the Civic DX is bare bone)

    Pars
     
    pars, Jun 27, 2004
    #47
  8. me6

    me6 Guest

    For local commuting to work, might I suggest the
    Ive thought abt that strategy as well.

    Matter of fact I once worked with a fellow who did just
    the above. Would buy used cars in $1500
    range......drive them and do absolutely NOTHING maint
    wise to the. The would replace them with another $1500
    car when the original failed

    And when he wanted to travel LONG distances.... he'd
    rent a nice car or van for the week for that.

    Seems like there might be something to this strategy.
    What say all?
     
    me6, Jun 27, 2004
    #48
  9. Why only 100,000 miles?
     
    Timothy J. Lee, Jun 27, 2004
    #49
  10. Wouldn't high mileage used be less expensive? Also, low mileage used
    cars might me more likely to include undesirable cars (all city driving,
    all short cold start trips, failure to do maintenance based on time limits,
    odometer fraud, etc.), so extra care would be needed in selection and
    inspection.
     
    Timothy J. Lee, Jun 27, 2004
    #50
  11. If you can get a high mileage car that has been well cared for, yes
    it can be. If not well cared for, then you will pay a lot for repairs.
    True. This is a risk to take with any used car. I personally like buying
    cars from private individuals. That way I can ask them questions about
    how the car has been maintained and used. You can usually tell who is
    bullshitting and who knows what they are talking about. It also helps
    to give the car a thorough inspection.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Jun 28, 2004
    #51

  12. Better in what sense? It is not the most economical way to go. With
    a lease you are paying for what you use. Since a car depreciates the
    most the first few years, you are paying for the most expensive portion
    of the cost of the vehicle.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Jun 28, 2004
    #52
  13. You must drive a lot of miles per year to be spending that much on
    maintenance.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Jun 28, 2004
    #53
  14. I've had the opposite experience. Most private sellers that I have
    bought from were very honest. There were a few cars I looked at where
    the seller was either lying or knew nothing about the car, so I passed
    on the vehicle. When you buy from a dealer, you have no way of knowing
    the past history of the car.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Jun 28, 2004
    #54
  15. Wow, a 7.5 million mile oil change. :)
    With modern electronic ignition you should be able to go much further than
    30k between plug changes.
    I would do this every 2 years no matter how many, or how few, miles you
    travel.
    Some cars require more frequent timing belt changes. If you drive mostly
    highway miles and drive lots of miles per year, you could probably extend
    the interval.
     
    Alex Rodriguez, Jun 28, 2004
    #55
  16. me6

    SoCalMike Guest

    dunno. my 98 uses regular ND plugs, and claims 30k change intervals.
    cool with me. i could probably go platinum, and double that. i just go
    by what the helm book recommends.

    besides, its easy and cheap to do, and the longer you keep plugs in, the
    more likely they are to sieze in the head.

    even on the 100k interval cars, id still try to do the plugs at 50k.
     
    SoCalMike, Jun 28, 2004
    #56
  17. It's better to lease a car every 3 years.
    Let's look at the numbers:

    '04 BMW:

    $302.72 (8.5% CA tax) x 36= $10,897.74
    Drive off: $2,500
    Maintenance: $0
    Rental cars during maintenance/recalls: $0

    In three years, you spent $13,397.74
    ------------------------------------------

    Buying a similarly equipped '04 Accord: $24,000 (MSRP $27,000)

    Downpayment: $3000
    Payments for 5 years at 6%: $440.49 x 60=$26,429.30

    Total cost: $29,429.30

    Let's say you trade it in after 3 years:

    Trade in value (50% of MSRP $27,000): $13,500

    Loan payoff: $11,500

    Which means, your 3 year cost is $19,707.64 ( $15,857.64 + $3000 downpay +
    Maintenance:
    Oil changes: 10 x $25 = $250
    30K mile major service: $400
    Rental cars during service/recall: $200)

    Minus $2000 equity and total cost is:
    $17,707.64.

    That's $4,309.90 MORE THAN LEASING THE BMW!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Do I need to spell it out again? B-E-T-T-E-R!





    ____________________________________
     
    He Hate Retard and Moron, Jun 29, 2004
    #57
  18. me6

    SoCalMike Guest

    why would anyone finance a car for 5 years, knowing theyll trade it in
    after 3? thats what leases are for.

    why dont you compare leasing a BMW to leasing an accord?

    youre comparing apples to oranges.
     
    SoCalMike, Jun 29, 2004
    #58
  19. why would anyone finance a car for 5 years, knowing theyll trade it in
    People do this all the time. Even I've financed cars for 4 or 5 years then
    traded it in after 3 years and once even after 1 year, because a hot, new model
    just happened to catch my eye.

    Many also do it to keep their payments more manageable.... difference between 3
    and 5 years can be over $200/month.

    That would be hard because Honda doesn't offer any factory subsidized leases on
    their higher end models, which are more comparable to the BMW. They do offer
    one on the LX which isn't in the same league (options and price) as the Bimmer.

    No I aint. Someone claimed leasing (overall) wasn't practical.





    ____________________________________
     
    He Hate Retard and Moron, Jun 29, 2004
    #59
  20. me6

    SoCalMike Guest

    you must have money to burn.
    what about a non-subsidized lease? surely theres someone out there in
    RAMH who is leasing a 2 door accord V6 EX w/nav?
    leasing is only good if you know youre going to want a car every 2 or 3
    years, with a warranty.

    if you like the car you picked in the first place, you shouldnt want to
    change after 3 years.

    i havent had a car payment in 3 years, and its a great feeling. thats
    $300/mo extra in my pocket for vacations, retirement, or toys.
     
    SoCalMike, Jun 29, 2004
    #60
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