My honda Refuses to Start!

91 Honda Civic, LX, automatic, 120,000 miles.
The car seems to going fine except one problem. sometimes the car
refuses
to start. This only happens after long drive. The car does not start
immediately after long drive. I have to wait while, sometimes a minute
or
5 or 10. I replaced a main relay thing. Still it didn't fix the
problem.
Is the problem on fuel injection or fuel filter? Sorry I don't know
not much
about car to say this.

 

Check the ignition switch (screwed into the back of the key cylinder) for
burned contacts.

 

Check if there's air in the tires while you're at it. It'll be about as
helpfull as the above advice and less likely for you to damage your car
in the process.

If you don't have a solitary clue how to troubleshoot something as complex
as a car engine, you have no business fucking around under the hood.

Buy one more component on the off chance that it'll fix things and you'll
have already wasted more money than it would have cost to have a mechanic
solve it for you.

First things first: what codes if any does the ECU report?

 

What's your problem? Old lady cut you off this week?

There was nothing wrong with the previous advice and he's not going to get a
trouble code out of a 91 that won't start.

 

How can you be sure of that?

While he was on the rude side, I tend to agree with him.

 

I have owned three 90's Hondas that each had this same problem and it was
the ignition switch every time. Also, I didn't tell him to buy it, I
suggested he should check it. Two screws and about 2 minutes to check.

 

If the car starts when cold, the ignition switch is ok.

 

Red Cloud,
Next time it does that to you, try holding the pedal half way to the
floor and give it a try with the starter. If that solves the problem, it
could be a leaking injector that's bleeding your fuel pressure and
flooding it.

Our '95 Odyssey sometimes did that so we use Ethanol gas once in a while
to keep the injectors clean. 'Curly'

----------------------

--

To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.

Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -

 

Really... The symptom of bad Honda ignition switches is that they always
start when cold, but then the switch contacts overheat once its running and
it won't start again until the contacts cool. There was a recall of later
90's models for this.

If it is the switch, eventually it will start stalling without warning when
the switch contacts heat up and will refuse to restart until the switch
cools.

 

from what? They carry only enough current to operate a relay.

Or it could be the fuel pump. Or any number of sensors. Or a loose wiring
connection. Or a crimped fuel line. Or a plugged fuel filter. Or a cracked
ignition coil. Or a bad ignition module. Or dozens of other things.

Erroniously replace any two items and you've already wasted more money than it
would cost to have a mechanic troubleshoot the car. Ditto for any single
expensive item like a coil, ignition module or fuel pump.

If you don't have a troubleshooting strategy, you have no business under the
hood.

At least narrow it down to ignition or fuel before you start testing random
parts! Checking for ECU codes is a good start. (no code is as valueable a
readout as it indicates the ECU has no idea of the fault and that rules out a
LOT of components)

 

I have no idea the exact number of electrons flowing through it, but I have
several burned up ones here that, along with the recall by Honda, prove
there was a problem. My best guess from looking at a couple of them is the
spring is too weak and they arc internally, eating themselves away over
time.

No. If the switch is failing, it will do exactly that and it will not be
any of those other things.

If you actually bothered to read what was posted, I suggested that he check
it, not replace it. I agree with you 100% that it is foolhardy to simply go
off wholesale replacing parts.

Since the original poster stated that he had already replaced the relay, two
screws and two minutes to check the switch is not out of line, given that
his symptom pretty closely matches the failure profile of the bad ignition
switches that were later recalled.

No argument there, but I'll bet you a cheap cigar that he doesn't get any
codes.

 

Thanks you for advice. Ok I will remember and try it next time.

 

from what? They carry only enough current to operate a relay.

Stereo, brake, wiper, blower, washer motors. Coil, igniter, etc

Or tight spring wears it. Weak spring - envision electrons coverging
into a small point, thus heating it is one idea.
Rick

 

Holding pedal halfway, allow fuel vapors to escape. Why not full
throttle?

Clearing fuel can also be done by cranking w/ an unplugged ECU & pump
fuse. Have held pedal halfway, does not work for me.
Rick

 

Now the it does not start in cold. It used to start in cold.
since couple of weeks ago, I have to wait a minute in the mornign to start.
Once it started and stop and it started no problem. I guess it's ignition
switch.

 

Tell me where I can check on my car?

 

It is mounted on the back end of the ignition key cylinder. It is the
actual switch that turns when you turn the key.

 

Red Cloud,
Here's another simple test you can do. Next time you go for a long
drive, turn your heater down to a COOL setting about five minutes before
you plan to exit the car. Then try restarting. If it starts fine when
the interior is cool, but not HOT, you've probably got a bad MAIN RELAY
(again) Sorry, that's the symptom.

There are several good web pages that describe it to a 'T'.

'Curly'

-----------------------

--

To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.

Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -

 

Even in the morning, sometimes the car refuses to start, not every morning.
I thought I fixed the main relay problem by resoldering. yes I did resolder
a main relay then the car did start far better. Now when the car is
hot after long drive, it does not start sometimes again not every time and
sometimes it does not start cold in the morning. I suspect it is not main
relay problem. Some kind of the electrical problem of not ignite the motor.

 

is there 12V at the distributor?
sounds more like a bad coil. Unfortuneately a coil costs >$80 and can't
be tested worth a damn (can test fine but be bad).