Need advice on radiator replacement

The water pump is at the back of the block, kitty-corner to the upper rad
hose. You won't be able to reach it with tubing stuck into the upper hose
outlet.

I suppose it might work, at least to a degree. Provided you managed to get
the end of the siphon hose right to the bottom of the water jacket through
the upper rad hose outlet, you'd be able to remove /most/ of the quart
that's in the block.

But you'd still leave enough behind to compromise the new coolant and
reduce the corrosion protection to the baseline 2-years, just as though
you'd never tried that. Corrosion attacks the head-gasket first, and that's
a very bad thing.

What you can do in lieu of pulling the block drain is to drain and fill the
coolant as you just did, every two years. No need to remove the rad, just
open the rad drain and let whatever wants to drain out, drain out (turn
heater to full-hot first). That way most of the coolant will be fresh most
of the time, and corrosion protection should be mostly OK.

 

jim beam says...

In an attempt to diagnose the problem, I rigged up a circuit
tied in to the lines going to the two solenoids near the top
of the transmission that shift the tranny into lockup. (I
actually know something about electronics, as opposed to
automotive stuff.) And I was out driving around at night so
I could see whether the LEDs were blinking. But, the
expected signals weren't being sent to the solenoids.
Actually that was good news because it meant there probably
wasn't anything wrong with the transmission.

It was at that point that someone suggested it might be a
temperature problem - possibly a bad thermostat, or air that
hadn't been bled out. So I tried the air bleed, and the
tranny worked perfectly after that.

By the way, the proper signals going to the solenoids turned
out to be a bit strange. One gets a solid 12V, but the
other one gets a pulsing signal - modulated in some way.

 

Tegger says...

Oh ye of little faith.

Thanks very much for your help.

 

if it worked, that's great - i'm just saying that the switch is
something you have to look out for because it's known to fail, and the
commonly recommended searches of the coolant circuits can be a wild
goose chase.

that's pulse width modulation - it's the way you get to vary the
pressure in the solenoid switched hydraulic circuits between the two
extremes of "on" and "off". it's used on lockup clutches in modern
transmission control systems to provide partial slip and thus better
ratio/engine power band matching and so both fuel economy and better
drivability. my 96 accord does it.

 

That is one of the reasons that I pulled my fans first. They have to
come off anyway and they are a piece of cake to remove.. Another
reason was so I wouldn't make a huge mess with the coolant and tranny
fluid.

 

here's yet another reason why we know you haven't really done this ron -
you don't have room to remove a fan assembly without dragging the edges
of it over the radiator matrix. and when you do that, you don't just
bend the fins, you can actually pierce the coolant tubes. indeed, i've
watched someone do this when they thought they knew what they were doing
but didn't.

to anyone else reading, do this job exactly like it shows in that video.
take the whole shooting match out as a unit, swap all the parts, them
put the new one back as a unit. making sure you unclip the transmission
cooler hoses from the top.

the only mess you're making ron is the saliva you're drooling because
you don't know when to keep your mouth closed.

 

Really? So why you have to replace a fan motor you remove the radiator
with the fans?????

Yeah, a fucking HACK.

 

you have a comprehension problem ron - i never mentioned replacing a fan
motor.

yet strangely, i don't bullshit about being able to access transmission
cooler hoses from underneath when you can't get at them that way, and i
don't puncture rads while trying to take fans out. it's strange how the
differences between people who do stuff, and the people who just
bullshit reveal themselves.

besides, you're spending an extraordinary amount of effort in
conversation with someone you say is in your killfile. oh, wait, you
were just bullshitting about that too...

 

You said you couldn't remove the fan assemblies w/o damaging the
radiator. So using your logic you have to remove the radiator to
replace the fan motors, right?????

Funny, this guy had no problem removing/replacing the fan assemblies w/
o damaging the radiator. And that is on a V6 with even less room.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vllcYvMukU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9F5rh0gSv8

Really, and why not? Remove the splash guard and they are right there.
As a matter of fact, the drivers side can be removed from above.

Neither do I or thousands of other people that know what they are
doing.

 

you're a funny guy ron. you said "replace a fan motor" not "remove the
assembly". but i guess that's ok when you're bullshitting and don't
know what you're talking about.

"While liars need to know the truth to better conceal it, bullshitters,
interested solely in advancing their own agendas, have no use for the
truth."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On_Bullshit

that's got you nailed.

 

Non-answers noted.

 

On 12/16/2010 11:11 AM, Ron wrote:
<snipped for clarity>

here, let me re-emphasize the but you carefully snipped but didn't
acknowledge:

"'While liars need to know the truth to better conceal it, bullshitters,
interested solely in advancing their own agendas, have no use for the
truth.'

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On_Bullshit

that's got you nailed."

now **** off back to your troll hole and stop making up bullshit
"advice" that wastes people's time and potentially their money because
you have no experience and don't know what you're doing.

 

Tell me HOW you change the fan motors if you can't remove the fan
assemblies w/o damaging the radiator? Oh, that's right, you can't
answer the question because you dug yourself into a hole.

 

when you snip something ron, you should annotate accordingly. otherwise
you're being dishonest. and anyone who wasn't a bullshitter wouldn't
want to show themselves as dishonest.

tell me how you can replace a burnt exhaust valve without taking off the
cylinder head - same kind of situation.

 

Just can't get out of that hole you dug for yourself, can ya? lol

 

unattributed snippage causing you an integrity problem there ron?
[rhetorical]

oh dear - the bullshitter can't tell the difference between not playing
and not knowing how to play...

 

C'mon ladies give it a rest. Merry Xmas to you both. I think Jim won
this one in my mind.

 

Yeah, JB says you can't R&R the fan assemblies w/o damaging the
radiator. You agree with that?

 

don't put words in my mouth ron, thanks /so/ much.

 

Don't have to.................

"here's yet another reason why we know you haven't really done this
ron -you don't have room to remove a fan assembly without dragging the
edges of it over the radiator matrix. and when you do that, you don't
just
bend the fins, you can actually pierce the coolant tubes."