Need Help: 88 Civic Timing

My 88 Civic DX barely passed emissioins last year after getting a used
replacement engine put in. No such luck this year. The Nox is about
double the limit.

I've read that the things to look for are: EGR, Timing, and Cat.
After much effort I know believe that this model civic doesn't have an
EGR. I took off the cat, but it looks fairly clean and intact.
Checking the timing is where I'm running into trouble.

There are three timing marks on the pulley. I'm assuming the center
mark is the preferred timing and the other two marks are the tolerance
(eg. 18 degrees +/- 2 degrees). Putting a timing light on the #1
cylinder shows the timing to be considerably out. It's so far out
that I can't rotate the distributor enough to get it even close. I've
jumpered the service connector, but it doesn't seem to have an effect.

Am I doing something wrong or is it more likely that the pully was
misinstalled when the engine was replaced?

-Brian

 

looks mean nothing. its how well it works.

O2 sensor, as well.

 

looks mean nothing. its how well it works.

I thought cats typically failed by clogging or breaking up. Looking
down the throat of the cat the element looks as clean as the
replacement I bought.

Wouldn't this typically cause a rich condition and lead to high HC's?
I'm only failing NOX.

-Brian

 

If the timing belt is off a bit, you can't adjust the distributor to get
the right timing reading. I've never found any effect with the jumper
connected. I don't use that jumper any more.

On my milled head on a 91 Civic, the timing is off by haft a tooth. I
would need to get adjustable sprocket to align it right.

EGR only work in idle mode, on one cylinder, and on automatic only. I
couldn't believe we had to pay $80 for that useless piece in California.

Hi NOx means high combustion temperature or bad cat. If your timing is too
advanced, that lead to excessive NOx that even a new cat can't clean up. I
always reduce timing advance to the minimum, to reduce NOx. What is your
timing?

 

Two possible reasons: 1) the crankshaft pulley/camshaft drive cog were
installed on the crankshaft without the key - I hope it's not this but it
*has* happened. 2)the timing belt is installed on the pulleys such that
the camshaft timing is wrong - not too difficult too move it a tooth or two
without taking anything off. If it's too advanced, which could explain the
NOx, you want to loosen the timing belt tensioner, pull up on the belt to
get some slack on it and turn the camshaft pulley a tooth clockwise vs. the
belt. Using an offset box wrench on the camshaft pulley nut, I've found it
quite easy to do.

With the crankshaft on the TDC mark - single mark to the right of the
cluster of three for ignition timing - the camshaft pulley has lines on it
which should line up with the cylinder head top surface.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

Hi NOx means high combustion temperature or bad cat. If your timing is too

That's what I'm trying to figure out. I checked it at idle, but I
didn't check the RPM's, so maybe the computer was advancing the timing
with the engine running at a higher-than-published idle speed. The
timing appears far advanced (the 3 timing marks are towards the
firewall from the needle about 1.5"). Adjusting the distributor has a
noticeable effect on idle (idles much rougher less advanced), but
doesn't even come close to moving the marks under the needle.

I'm starting to wonder if the timing is a tooth off. The engine runs
great, but I don't know why the timing appears so far off.

-Brian