New catalytic converter needed?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! The check engine light on my '99
Accord has been going on and off since 98,000 miles and I now have 132,000
on it. Autozone checked the error code and it was code 67 - catalyst system
efficiency below threshold. Performance and gas mileage was unchanged so I
decided to live with it. The light now stays on and I occasionally pull the
fuse to clear it but it comes back on after a day or two. The car is still
running great but I need an emissions test in January and they plug into and
check the code data.

Honda wants almost $800 just for the cat. I see there are a lot of online
auto parts stores selling direct fit cats for the '99 Accord EX 4 cyl at a
price range from $112 to $248. Any experience and recommendations??

I also read that in a lot of cases it isn't necessarily the cat. I did
replace the gas cap just in case and a friend checked the O2 sensor and said
it appeared to be ok. I did check and was able to remove the existing O2
sensor. I'm not sure if I should just try a new sensor first or just order a
new cat.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
George

 

Your car has two O2 sensors, one before the cat and one after. Which one
did you test?

 

Your car has two O2 sensors, one before the cat and one after. Which one
did you test?

 

A SMOG check will usually tell you if the CAT is the problem. In
California, if you fail a SMOG test, the re-test is usually free, or pay $10
for the initial test and come back. Any muffler shop can put an aftermarket
CAT for about $125 installed.

 

A SMOG check will usually tell you if the CAT is the problem. In
California, if you fail a SMOG test, the re-test is usually free, or pay $10
for the initial test and come back. Any muffler shop can put an aftermarket
CAT for about $125 installed.

 

I think the code is specific enough to say the cat is bad. In OBD II cars
(all sold in US since '96, and some as early as '94) there are 2 O2 sensors.
The one between the engine and the cat is used to control mixture. The one
after the cat is used to see if the actual cat output is nearly free of CO.
The condition of each sensor can be determined by the ECU, and you don't
have a code for a bad sensor. What it is saying is that the rear sensor
voltage is rising, indicating excessive CO from the converter even though
the front sensor is controlling the mixture okay. There is a small
possibility it is either sensor, but the chance isn't worth the cost of a
sensor.

I have had a local shop replace the cat in my Volvo several years ago. I
paid about $100, parts and labor, and it worked great. I can't imagine any
reason the inexpensive aftermarket cats specified for your car wouldn't work
well. (Note that some earlier cats were 2 stage; they didn't have a stage
for breaking down NOx. Putting one of those on will cause your car to fail
NOx, guaranteed.) If you call local shops for a quote, you will get a range
of prices. My experience with muffler and radiator shops is that low price
is often consistent with being proficient enough to get the job done
quickly - the work isn't rocket science for any pro. Check with friends to
ensure the shop isn't a notorious ripoff, and go for it.

Mike

 

I think the code is specific enough to say the cat is bad. In OBD II cars
(all sold in US since '96, and some as early as '94) there are 2 O2 sensors.
The one between the engine and the cat is used to control mixture. The one
after the cat is used to see if the actual cat output is nearly free of CO.
The condition of each sensor can be determined by the ECU, and you don't
have a code for a bad sensor. What it is saying is that the rear sensor
voltage is rising, indicating excessive CO from the converter even though
the front sensor is controlling the mixture okay. There is a small
possibility it is either sensor, but the chance isn't worth the cost of a
sensor.

I have had a local shop replace the cat in my Volvo several years ago. I
paid about $100, parts and labor, and it worked great. I can't imagine any
reason the inexpensive aftermarket cats specified for your car wouldn't work
well. (Note that some earlier cats were 2 stage; they didn't have a stage
for breaking down NOx. Putting one of those on will cause your car to fail
NOx, guaranteed.) If you call local shops for a quote, you will get a range
of prices. My experience with muffler and radiator shops is that low price
is often consistent with being proficient enough to get the job done
quickly - the work isn't rocket science for any pro. Check with friends to
ensure the shop isn't a notorious ripoff, and go for it.

Mike

 

An original equipment Honda catalytic converter from
http://www.hondaatuomotiveparts.com sells for about $474.

Eric

 

An original equipment Honda catalytic converter from
http://www.hondaatuomotiveparts.com sells for about $474.

Eric

 

Remember, there's an 8yr/80,000 mile Federal emissions warranty that
covers the CAT and everything required to replace it (Y-pipe, clamps,
hanger, etc). Outside 8/80 you can go to an aftermarket muffler shop and
get a generic one fitted for $100 ~ $150.

 

Remember, there's an 8yr/80,000 mile Federal emissions warranty that
covers the CAT and everything required to replace it (Y-pipe, clamps,
hanger, etc). Outside 8/80 you can go to an aftermarket muffler shop and
get a generic one fitted for $100 ~ $150.

 

Tested the one after the cat....

 

Tested the one after the cat....

 

My 97 has a lifetime warrantee P&L on all emission equipment. I base
this on receipt by literature received from Honda indicating that this
was the result of a compromise with the government conserning the car
failing to meet some regulation.

 

the 96 and 97 have an emmission extension up to 150,000 miles, not
lifetime. it's part of the 814 program. i do this every day.

as for the o/p just go to a muffler shop. cats are federally
regulated, they have to work as originally designed.
Chip

 

Hey Chip, you seem to know what you're talking about, what about a 99? I
have just over 140,000 km on mine and the manifold is cracked, is it under
warranty?

Thanks, Randy