new Honda CR-V break in

what would be impressive is you bothering to pay attention to this
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/killfile-faq/

but that wouldn't be boredom-relieving "chat" - would it.

 

what would be impressive is you bothering to pay attention to this
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/killfile-faq/

but that wouldn't be boredom-relieving "chat" - would it.

 

The threads that form the drain plug hole are not made of the same piece of
steel as the pan. The drain hole threads are punched into a small rectangle
of much thicker metal that's spot-welded to the inside of the pan.

Check your oil pan (or find a loose engine in a wrecking yard and pull the
pan off that). On either side of the drain hole, you'll find two small spot
welds. These are the welds that hold the rectangle of metal in place.

When you look at that rectangle from the inside of the pan, you can plainly
see that it's made of much thicker steel than the pan itself. Honda (or its
supplier) punches the hole in the rectangle, threads it, the welds it to
the pan.

The threaded rectangle on my original pan and the one on the new pan
(installed 1994) were definitely of different thicknesses, with the new one
being thicker. I believe Honda has changed the pans since 1991, and that's
why we don't hear of stripped drain plugs nearly as often as we used to ten
years ago.

 

The threads that form the drain plug hole are not made of the same piece of
steel as the pan. The drain hole threads are punched into a small rectangle
of much thicker metal that's spot-welded to the inside of the pan.

Check your oil pan (or find a loose engine in a wrecking yard and pull the
pan off that). On either side of the drain hole, you'll find two small spot
welds. These are the welds that hold the rectangle of metal in place.

When you look at that rectangle from the inside of the pan, you can plainly
see that it's made of much thicker steel than the pan itself. Honda (or its
supplier) punches the hole in the rectangle, threads it, the welds it to
the pan.

The threaded rectangle on my original pan and the one on the new pan
(installed 1994) were definitely of different thicknesses, with the new one
being thicker. I believe Honda has changed the pans since 1991, and that's
why we don't hear of stripped drain plugs nearly as often as we used to ten
years ago.

 

True, and much of that will be soot (about 1 micron in size).

The integrity of the thin part of the "oil wedge" is the key to lubricant
effectiveness in protecting those hydrodynamic bearings.

The thin part of the wedge is thin indeed, and contaminant particles must
be small enough that they are smaller than the wedge, otherwise abrasion
will occur.

Consider that crankshaft main-bearing-to-journal clearance is on the order
of 25-50 microns. The thickness of the thin part of the wedge will be less
than that. I've read that a common automotive oil filter efficiency is
about 30 microns, so you haven't got much there before wear occurs in the
presence of metallic particles.

 

True, and much of that will be soot (about 1 micron in size).

The integrity of the thin part of the "oil wedge" is the key to lubricant
effectiveness in protecting those hydrodynamic bearings.

The thin part of the wedge is thin indeed, and contaminant particles must
be small enough that they are smaller than the wedge, otherwise abrasion
will occur.

Consider that crankshaft main-bearing-to-journal clearance is on the order
of 25-50 microns. The thickness of the thin part of the wedge will be less
than that. I've read that a common automotive oil filter efficiency is
about 30 microns, so you haven't got much there before wear occurs in the
presence of metallic particles.

 

Usually what I'm about to say uses the word "screws" but in your case
considering your last name and your posts in this thread, there is no
doubt to us normal people you are missing or have some loose bolts.

 

Usually what I'm about to say uses the word "screws" but in your case
considering your last name and your posts in this thread, there is no
doubt to us normal people you are missing or have some loose bolts.

 

Actually you might be missing some nuts and bolts.... how appropriate
it fits the name and the type person at the same time.

 

Actually you might be missing some nuts and bolts.... how appropriate
it fits the name and the type person at the same time.

 

mostly, yes.

for illustration, poke about here:
http://www.tribology-abc.com/sub11.htm

but metallics are a small proportion. and /some/ metallics can be
beneficial - the soft ones like brass and lead for instance.

regarding particle size:

http://mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html

i need to refresh my memory on typical hydrodynamic separations for
journal bearings, but typical filtered oil particle size really isn't a
problem.

quickly googling, i find this! powder separated journal bearings?!!!
whoda thunk...
http://scitation.aip.org/getabs/servlet/GetabsServlet?prog=normal&id=JOTRE9000128000002000351000001&idtype=cvips&gifs=yes&ref=no

 

mostly, yes.

for illustration, poke about here:
http://www.tribology-abc.com/sub11.htm

but metallics are a small proportion. and /some/ metallics can be
beneficial - the soft ones like brass and lead for instance.

regarding particle size:

http://mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html

i need to refresh my memory on typical hydrodynamic separations for
journal bearings, but typical filtered oil particle size really isn't a
problem.

quickly googling, i find this! powder separated journal bearings?!!!
whoda thunk...
http://scitation.aip.org/getabs/servlet/GetabsServlet?prog=normal&id=JOTRE9000128000002000351000001&idtype=cvips&gifs=yes&ref=no

 

Heh heh... I can vouch for that after a valve cover seal failed on one
of my Civics. Doesn't take long to empty it out! Had to spring for a
$5+ (ouch!) bottle of oil to get home where I promptly replaced the
gasket...

JT

 

Heh heh... I can vouch for that after a valve cover seal failed on one
of my Civics. Doesn't take long to empty it out! Had to spring for a
$5+ (ouch!) bottle of oil to get home where I promptly replaced the
gasket...

JT

 

The book that comes with the car does talk about additional servicing
requirements in special circumstances 0- that may help.

Honestly you'd be better sticking to a dealer, standard servicing and the
oil Honda recommends

The CRV uses long life fluids (including coolant and PAS) so ensure that IF
you need to top anything up use the Honda stuff

If you care about the car then there's the usual advice - check fluids
regularly, don't thrash a cold engine and no VERY heavy braking for a few
thousand miles, give it a polish before winter and clean salt off the
"chassis"

 

The book that comes with the car does talk about additional servicing
requirements in special circumstances 0- that may help.

Honestly you'd be better sticking to a dealer, standard servicing and the
oil Honda recommends

The CRV uses long life fluids (including coolant and PAS) so ensure that IF
you need to top anything up use the Honda stuff

If you care about the car then there's the usual advice - check fluids
regularly, don't thrash a cold engine and no VERY heavy braking for a few
thousand miles, give it a polish before winter and clean salt off the
"chassis"

 

Thanks Thomas. I'll follow all you say except maybe the last part
<g>. Where I live, we don't get snow but every 5 to 10 years but
where I used to live, almost every year so I know what you mean by
salt. I guess I'll buy some Honda products (fluids) to store around
the garage.

 

Thanks Thomas. I'll follow all you say except maybe the last part
<g>. Where I live, we don't get snow but every 5 to 10 years but
where I used to live, almost every year so I know what you mean by
salt. I guess I'll buy some Honda products (fluids) to store around
the garage.

 

Sorry Guy, are you one of those people (nutters? ;-) who are sensible and
keep their cars for years AND years as its the most economical w\y of
running a car and not worried about MPG and think "whole life costs" is
the only way to gauge "economy"?
I'll not mention the Toyota Pious but as Car Companies are most concerned
about PPM ( pence per mile - I'm guessing cents per mile in your case?
and looking good over 3/5 years rather than the whole life there is nothing
wrong in changing the oil a little more often or the ATF twice as often as
the companies advise - I know that BMW for instance talk about "sealed for
life" transmissions for instance BUT BMw specialists often talk about
changing the oil twice as often and the transmission fluid at least every
48k

sorry - this ad vise probable don't help do it? ;-)

 

Sorry Guy, are you one of those people (nutters? ;-) who are sensible and
keep their cars for years AND years as its the most economical w\y of
running a car and not worried about MPG and think "whole life costs" is
the only way to gauge "economy"?
I'll not mention the Toyota Pious but as Car Companies are most concerned
about PPM ( pence per mile - I'm guessing cents per mile in your case?
and looking good over 3/5 years rather than the whole life there is nothing
wrong in changing the oil a little more often or the ATF twice as often as
the companies advise - I know that BMW for instance talk about "sealed for
life" transmissions for instance BUT BMw specialists often talk about
changing the oil twice as often and the transmission fluid at least every
48k

sorry - this ad vise probable don't help do it? ;-)