No start 1990 CRX HF

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Rex B, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. Rex B

    Rex B Guest

    OK guys, need some quick advice. Went out to get lunch and nothing
    happens when I turn the key. No radio, no click, no nothing. Happened a
    few weeks ago, then stated fin the next day, and ever since.

    I figure it's the ignition switch, or loose harness to the switch.

    Any chance the main relay could also cause this?
    Do they ever fail intermittently?

    Anything else?

    Quick tip to get it started so I can get home tonight?
     
    Rex B, Mar 8, 2005
    #1
  2. Rex B

    Rex B Guest

    Well, I went online to order the switch and relay.
    Ignition switch is $130
    Relay has 3 choices, depending on which number is stamped on it.
     
    Rex B, Mar 8, 2005
    #2
  3. Rex B

    Rex B Guest

    Well, I went online to order the switch and relay.
    Ignition switch is $130
    Relay has 3 choices, depending on which number is stamped on it.
     
    Rex B, Mar 8, 2005
    #3
  4. The main relay is just a fancy fuel pump relay AFAIK. Shouldn't cause the
    "no activity" condition.

    That doesn't leave much - the ignition switch or the battery. If it is the
    ignition switch the headlights will come on normally, if the battery is bad
    the headlights won't (obviously).

    Intermittent batteries are becoming downright common. About half the bad
    batteries I've had in recent years have failed that way. Apparently the
    connections inside the battery at one post or the other crack and don't
    quite make contact. If you can get current to start flowing, the contacts
    will weld slightly, enough to magically restore the battery!

    If the ignition switch is being troublesome, it is possible to open it and
    work the contacts over with the existing grease inside the switch. It's
    pretty spooky doing that away from home, though. You may be better off
    cycling the switch on and off until it hopefully works.

    If it is the battery, turn the headlights on (to provide a load and to guage
    your progress). Hit one of the terminals sharply with a small hammer if one
    is available, something improvised if not. Don't risk breaking the case,
    just a medium whack. Check the lights and repeat with the other terminal if
    necessary. You may have to be persistent, and if you have a voltmeter or
    test light available you will probably want to verify the voltage is missing
    at the posts before getting carried away. If that gets it going, replace the
    battery.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Mar 8, 2005
    #4
  5. The main relay is just a fancy fuel pump relay AFAIK. Shouldn't cause the
    "no activity" condition.

    That doesn't leave much - the ignition switch or the battery. If it is the
    ignition switch the headlights will come on normally, if the battery is bad
    the headlights won't (obviously).

    Intermittent batteries are becoming downright common. About half the bad
    batteries I've had in recent years have failed that way. Apparently the
    connections inside the battery at one post or the other crack and don't
    quite make contact. If you can get current to start flowing, the contacts
    will weld slightly, enough to magically restore the battery!

    If the ignition switch is being troublesome, it is possible to open it and
    work the contacts over with the existing grease inside the switch. It's
    pretty spooky doing that away from home, though. You may be better off
    cycling the switch on and off until it hopefully works.

    If it is the battery, turn the headlights on (to provide a load and to guage
    your progress). Hit one of the terminals sharply with a small hammer if one
    is available, something improvised if not. Don't risk breaking the case,
    just a medium whack. Check the lights and repeat with the other terminal if
    necessary. You may have to be persistent, and if you have a voltmeter or
    test light available you will probably want to verify the voltage is missing
    at the posts before getting carried away. If that gets it going, replace the
    battery.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Mar 8, 2005
    #5
  6. Rex B

    John Ings Guest

    Simple trick that might work- stick the tip of a pocket knife or small
    plain screwdriver between the battery posts and their clamps and pry
    and twist a little. Or if you have wrenches handy, slacken the clamps
    and rotate them a bit on the posts and try again.

    Before deciding it's the ignition switch or main relay, check all
    battery cable connections at battery, starter and neg cable grounding
    point. Check under the battery cable connections at the clamps for
    corroded copper, sometimes there's only a few strands left among and a
    lot of green crud. See also:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling
     
    John Ings, Mar 8, 2005
    #6
  7. Rex B

    John Ings Guest

    Simple trick that might work- stick the tip of a pocket knife or small
    plain screwdriver between the battery posts and their clamps and pry
    and twist a little. Or if you have wrenches handy, slacken the clamps
    and rotate them a bit on the posts and try again.

    Before deciding it's the ignition switch or main relay, check all
    battery cable connections at battery, starter and neg cable grounding
    point. Check under the battery cable connections at the clamps for
    corroded copper, sometimes there's only a few strands left among and a
    lot of green crud. See also:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling
     
    John Ings, Mar 8, 2005
    #7
  8. Rex B

    jim beam Guest

    check the battery & the battery terminals first. unlikely to be main
    relay as you're typically still be able to crank the engine - it just
    won't start. if you do buy a new main relay, [not a bad idea to have a
    spare given that they /do/ fail] it's the one labeled "RZ-0063".
     
    jim beam, Mar 9, 2005
    #8
  9. Rex B

    jim beam Guest

    check the battery & the battery terminals first. unlikely to be main
    relay as you're typically still be able to crank the engine - it just
    won't start. if you do buy a new main relay, [not a bad idea to have a
    spare given that they /do/ fail] it's the one labeled "RZ-0063".
     
    jim beam, Mar 9, 2005
    #9
  10. Rex B

    Rex B Guest

    Well, you guys were on the right track. It was a dead battery, left the
    lights on when I got to work. This is the only car I own that doesn't
    have a "Lights on" warning buzzer, and it bites me every now and then.
    The last time I had a no-start condition, it wasn't the battery, and
    I never figured out what it was, except it started fine next day. I just
    assumed (there's that word) that that problem had returned.
    Thanks for the reality check :)
     
    Rex B, Mar 9, 2005
    #10
  11. Rex B

    Rex B Guest

    Well, you guys were on the right track. It was a dead battery, left the
    lights on when I got to work. This is the only car I own that doesn't
    have a "Lights on" warning buzzer, and it bites me every now and then.
    The last time I had a no-start condition, it wasn't the battery, and
    I never figured out what it was, except it started fine next day. I just
    assumed (there's that word) that that problem had returned.
    Thanks for the reality check :)
     
    Rex B, Mar 9, 2005
    #11
  12. Rex B

    John Ings Guest

    There's an east cure for that. Under the dash near the steering column
    is that annoying seatbelt buzzer. At least that's where it was on my
    CRX. It's not hard to rewire this between the park light bus and the
    ignition bus, with a small diode in the circuit. If the ignition is
    turned off there are enough loads on the ignition bus to make it look
    like a ground to the buzzer, and if the park lamps are still on, it
    will buzz at you. The diode stops the the ignition voltage from coming
    back the other way when the park lights are off.
     
    John Ings, Mar 9, 2005
    #12
  13. Rex B

    John Ings Guest

    There's an east cure for that. Under the dash near the steering column
    is that annoying seatbelt buzzer. At least that's where it was on my
    CRX. It's not hard to rewire this between the park light bus and the
    ignition bus, with a small diode in the circuit. If the ignition is
    turned off there are enough loads on the ignition bus to make it look
    like a ground to the buzzer, and if the park lamps are still on, it
    will buzz at you. The diode stops the the ignition voltage from coming
    back the other way when the park lights are off.
     
    John Ings, Mar 9, 2005
    #13
  14. Rex B

    Nick Huckaby Guest

    Push start?
    The headlight switched would've been a nice clue. :)
    Probably the clutch switch.
     
    Nick Huckaby, Mar 10, 2005
    #14
  15. Rex B

    Nick Huckaby Guest

    Push start?
    The headlight switched would've been a nice clue. :)
    Probably the clutch switch.
     
    Nick Huckaby, Mar 10, 2005
    #15
  16. Rex B

    r2000swler Guest

    I added a small radio shack $6 sonalert between thedash illuminatin
    and the oil
    peasure switch. Took about 30 minutes and you have to pull the cowling
    off the
    gauges. I added a 1n4002 diode.
    Somewhere I have the exact wires that I intercepted.
    I have misplaced a folder with all my Honda notes, including the info I
    promised
    Tigar.
    Terry
     
    r2000swler, Mar 10, 2005
    #16
  17. Rex B

    r2000swler Guest

    I added a small radio shack $6 sonalert between thedash illuminatin
    and the oil
    peasure switch. Took about 30 minutes and you have to pull the cowling
    off the
    gauges. I added a 1n4002 diode.
    Somewhere I have the exact wires that I intercepted.
    I have misplaced a folder with all my Honda notes, including the info I
    promised
    Tigar.
    Terry
     
    r2000swler, Mar 10, 2005
    #17
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