O2 sensor wiring question

I bought a generic O2 sensor for my 2000 Accord EX. The sensor heater wires
are the same color, white on the old one, black on the new one. Is the
heater circuit positive / negative sensitive?

I installed it using the old connector and get an almost immediate CEL with
P1162.

Thanks.

Jim

 

Generic O2 sensors won't work. Bite the bullet and get an OEM part.

 

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There's a good info page here http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/

There's also one at bosch.com, but DON'T buy their products.

NTK's can be had (for my '00 CR-V) for under $100 CAN at NAPA.

I thought Honda OEM's are NTK

'Curly'

 

I didn't know that (obviously <sf>). Do you know why not? Just curious.

I guess I'll head for the auto parts store in the morning, thanks.

 

There is no such thing as a generic oxygen sensor that fits every car.
For example, the Bosch "Universal" oxygen sensor is actually 12
distinct lines (maybe more now) of sensors matched to the specific
vehicle application. People have run into problems installing a
"universal" sensor for Nissan in a Honda as I searched on the topic.
That's a no no. Bosch's universal line will provide detailed
instruction on how to splice on the old connector with the Posi-Lok
connector.

Came across the catalyst efficiency code on an Accord that sometimes
turns on the MIL and often stores its first tripping in memory when
there was no MIL. Decided to change out the OEM Denso thimble sensor
with a $89 Bosch planar sensor (OEM plug, not the universal one for
$79). Code disappeared for two months now. So I wonder if it was the
primary sensor all along.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors

Dump the Denso sensor at 60K miles I'd say (most cats reportedly go bad
around 80K). Denso may be the source of the problem. NTK however came
from the same company that makes NGK. Could be a better bet than Denso.
But Bosch's new generation of planar sensors are excellent.

On the web, the Bosch secondary sensor for the Accord with OEM plug
looks like a thimble. But the universal line for the secondary looks
like the new planar sensor (with vent holes only at the tip). If there
is a need to change that secondary sensor I'll select the Bosch
"universal" line specificly made for the Accord just to get the planar
sensor.

 

I didn't mean to imply that there IS a generic that will fit every car. I
meant I bought one for my Accord that didn't have the connector on it.

Nonetheless, it doesn't work. So I bought a new Bosch sensor. It won't screw
into the manifold...

So back to Advance Auto Parts I go again.

 

Like Misfit said, seriously consider OEM. Best prices I've
found are at
https://www.automedicsupply.com/
They ship quickly. I used them a couple of years ago and am
very pleased with the OEM sensor they sold and shipped me.

 

It doesn't work either and the pigtail is about 2-3" too short.

Thanks but I'm gonna bite the bullet and go to Honda on Monday. I've read
some discussion that the VTec F23A4 has some quirks that make it so that
only a Honda sensor will work. We'll see if that fixes it.

 

Sounds like you're in a hurry (understandable). But for
future reference and the archives, the store above sells
genuine Honda sensors. Denso is the OEM (or one of the OEM)
oxygen sensor manufacturer(s) for Honda, for example, and
that's what the site above sells.

 

I understand. But I've already bought two sensors that "the book" says will
work in my car,,, and don't. I've been dicking around with this too long
already and need to get it fixed.

Thanks for the info though. I do appreciate it.

 

Nasty wrote:

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Have you inspected all your engine and chassis ground lugs to be sure
it's not a wiring issue? It can't heat up properly or give readings with
out all connections working right. (including the ECU connections).

'Curly'

 

Yeah. In that case just buy the Honda one and get it over with.
Majestic sells it cheap (although not as cheap as some others posted).
I just don't use Denso sensors, Showa shocks or Honda brake fluids
(made by CCI).

The Bosch planar oxygen sensor I help installed worked fine and appear
to fix the cat efficiency problem after these months. I think Bosch
sensors are the best in class.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors/CeramicO2

As far as the "universal sensor" goes, it requires you to splice a
segment of the old sensor wire, so you should actually have twice the
length of the old sensor to work with!

But you already spent twice.

 

(I used F23A1 in the search, OEM-type-connector for F23A4 differs but
same universal planar sensor. This may be your problem?)

Does your new sensors look like:

The Bosch "universal" sensor with Posi-Lok with which the old connector
is spliced onto the new planar sensor ($74.99), for both upstream of
downstrem:

www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BOS&mfrpartnumber=15733&parttype=291&ptset=A

Or the Bosch OEM-connector planar sensor, upstream (primary) $89.99:

www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BOS&mfrpartnumber=13075&parttype=291&ptset=A

Denso thimble sensor (IMO outdated technology) 36532-PAA-L02 is $45.79

 

Yes.

 

The original OEM oxygen sensor that came out of my 1991
Civic was a Denso sensor (has the "ND" logo on it, which c.
1991 stood for "Nippon Denso," which today is just the
"Denso" company). Chances are yours is a Denso too.

 

what's your problem with denso? be specific. my experience with bosch
is that they're short-lived and have slow reaction times. my experience
with denso otoh is exactly the opposite.

and just so you know, there's a fundamental difference in operation
between a zirconia sensor and a broadband [nernst] sensor - they're not
interchangeable and you can't use that as a basis for criticism.

 

but /why/??? what's your basis for evaluation?

 

my 98 civic has an upper and a lower. the upper was $220 at the dealer,
the bottom one was much more expensive. i dont regret buying new from
the dealer, but only after my code scanner indicated which one was bad,
and an ohm reading of it confirmed the diagnosis.

all in all, it was a 10 minute job, even removing and replacing the heat
shield on the manifold, so i could use a regular closed-end wrench on it.