Odd flapping when cranking

Hello, my 95 ESi (Civic 1.6L SOHC non-vtec D16 variant), hasn't been
used for a few months, but I warm it up every few days. Recently,
there has been an odd shuddering sound when cold, and gradually
disappears when the EACV kicks in and it has idled for about 2
minutes.

Today I cranked it but it won't start, and there was a strange
"flapping" sound, like a cut belt whipping around. Checked the visible
belts, nothing. Haven't checked timing belt, but it was replaced a few
months ago (orig parts), and hasn't been used since.

I'm nervous about cranking further, will check the timing belt
tomorrow and post back.

Any theories? I'd really appreciate it.

 

---------------------------------

You'd be better off to leave it sit, or maybe throw the battery charger
on it for an hour every two months. You probably have a no-start
condition because of a dribbling injector. Read the manual where they
explain "how to start a flooded engine". You're just pumping water and
contaminants into the oil by starting it and not driving it.

The cure for a dribbling injector is to run gasohol or injector cleaner
through it, but the car has to be driven lots for either to do anything,
so wait until it's ready to drive again.

'Curly'

 

---------------------------------

You'd be better off to leave it sit, or maybe throw the battery charger
on it for an hour every two months. You probably have a no-start
condition because of a dribbling injector. Read the manual where they
explain "how to start a flooded engine". You're just pumping water and
contaminants into the oil by starting it and not driving it.

The cure for a dribbling injector is to run gasohol or injector cleaner
through it, but the car has to be driven lots for either to do anything,
so wait until it's ready to drive again.

'Curly'

 

the "flapping" noise needs better description for us to be able to help.

regarding the other action you describe, you really need to stop this
"warm it up every few days" business. if you don't drive this motor and
get the working parts of the engine properly hot, the spark plugs won't
clean themselves, the engine will carbon up, and all kinds of oil
badness will ensue. much better to just leave it and charge the battery
than to go through maximum oil contamination and maximum cylinder wall
lubricant dilution every few days. not to mention incomplete combustion
because the spark plugs have fouled.

 

the "flapping" noise needs better description for us to be able to help.

regarding the other action you describe, you really need to stop this
"warm it up every few days" business. if you don't drive this motor and
get the working parts of the engine properly hot, the spark plugs won't
clean themselves, the engine will carbon up, and all kinds of oil
badness will ensue. much better to just leave it and charge the battery
than to go through maximum oil contamination and maximum cylinder wall
lubricant dilution every few days. not to mention incomplete combustion
because the spark plugs have fouled.

 

Thanks, Curly, Jim. Great replies, as always.

 

Thanks, Curly, Jim. Great replies, as always.

 

Original poster here. I'm posting back to help anyone who may have
this problem.

Turns out it *was* a flooded injector. I cranked for 15 seconds while
holding down the gas,
and on the second try the engine sputtered to life. Ran rough for
about half a minute but gradually
ran smooth. The "flapping/bubbling" sound may have been just lack of
lubrication, or maybe just
due to too much fuel..

Thanks, curly, jim. You were right on the money.

I plan to put in some injector cleaner, but right now the car will sit
for about another month. In the meantime i
s there any way I can prevent another flooding? Should I plug the fuel
line somehow?

 

Original poster here. I'm posting back to help anyone who may have
this problem.

Turns out it *was* a flooded injector. I cranked for 15 seconds while
holding down the gas,
and on the second try the engine sputtered to life. Ran rough for
about half a minute but gradually
ran smooth. The "flapping/bubbling" sound may have been just lack of
lubrication, or maybe just
due to too much fuel..

Thanks, curly, jim. You were right on the money.

I plan to put in some injector cleaner, but right now the car will sit
for about another month. In the meantime i
s there any way I can prevent another flooding? Should I plug the fuel
line somehow?

 

-----------------------------

There's only a couple ounces of fuel (or less) in the line and if it's
gonna leak, it's gonna leak. You already know how to solve it, so don't
sweat it. Once the injector gets cleaned out it will hold pressure while
car sits, whether for months or overnight.

'Curly'

 

-----------------------------

There's only a couple ounces of fuel (or less) in the line and if it's
gonna leak, it's gonna leak. You already know how to solve it, so don't
sweat it. Once the injector gets cleaned out it will hold pressure while
car sits, whether for months or overnight.

'Curly'

 

At 6,050 miles my 2007 Accord 6 cylinder with automatic reached "10% oil
life remaining" on the Engine Oil Life Indicator. At this rate the
recommended oil change interval is 6700 miles at 130 days.

This car is driven 4 - 10 miles per start about 80% of the time, and 75
miles per start the other 20%.

I am curious what the range has been among others that have Honda 6
cylinder vehicles equipped with the Engine Oil Life Indicator feature.

For instance has anybody had a change recommendation before 5,000 miles
or after 10,000? If so does it seem to correlate, as you would expect,
to stop and go versus highway miles?

 

At 6,050 miles my 2007 Accord 6 cylinder with automatic reached "10% oil
life remaining" on the Engine Oil Life Indicator. At this rate the
recommended oil change interval is 6700 miles at 130 days.

This car is driven 4 - 10 miles per start about 80% of the time, and 75
miles per start the other 20%.

I am curious what the range has been among others that have Honda 6
cylinder vehicles equipped with the Engine Oil Life Indicator feature.

For instance has anybody had a change recommendation before 5,000 miles
or after 10,000? If so does it seem to correlate, as you would expect,
to stop and go versus highway miles?

 

I am not in the group you were asking about because I have the 2007 4
cylinder Accord. However, my current oil life is at 30% which is also
going to extrapolate to around 6000 to 6500 miles. The car is driven
about 12-15 miles per start with an occasional 150 mile trip

Elliot Richmond
Itinerant astronomy teacher
Freelance science writer

 

I am not in the group you were asking about because I have the 2007 4
cylinder Accord. However, my current oil life is at 30% which is also
going to extrapolate to around 6000 to 6500 miles. The car is driven
about 12-15 miles per start with an occasional 150 mile trip

Elliot Richmond
Itinerant astronomy teacher
Freelance science writer