opinions on way to go...

Bullshit.

Screw you. I've seen his contract and it has no mention of it. If you know
otherwise, PROVE IT.




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I do not killfile nor use do-not-call lists.

 

Screw you. I've seen his contract and it has no mention of it. If you know
otherwise, PROVE IT.[/QUOTE]

I don't have to prove it. I know that the guy who signed it probably
himself doesn't know where his copy of it is. People in general don't
pay any attention.

It's an almost certainty that he's never read it. But show it to
someone else? Never happens.

 

I didn't cite any banks.

As for "including" it, let me tell you: there may be an OPTION to buy
gap insurance, but by no means is it included in ANYTHING. You have to
OPT to buy gap insurance.

Which makes sense; you can insure yourself, or you can buy insurance.

 

As for "including" it, let me tell you: there may be an OPTION to buy

When I asked if he got GAP insurance, he didn't know because the salesman and
the finance manager didn't even ask. He called the dealership few days later
and asked about it. That's when they told him that it was included in his
payments. He called Toyota/Lexus and they confirmed it.



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I do not killfile nor use do-not-call lists.

 

I don't have to prove it. I know that the guy who signed it probably

I've read it and there's no mention of it anywhere.

He showed it to me since I helped him do some research prior to his leasing.
There's no mention of min. insurance coverage.

If what you're saying is true, why is it that they haven't notified him and/or
penalized him?




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I do not killfile nor use do-not-call lists.

 

AHFC will not let you get liability-only coverage on a lease. you need full
coverage, including gap coverage. if your friend carries liability-only, hes
up shit creek if he wrecks it.

 

unless you want to increase your liability limits. then they DO go up on all
cars under the same policy. i just went thru this myself.

but yes, i have liability only on one, and full coverage on two.

 

look at the front, toward the bottom. right hand column, 16 inches down. its
there.under "vehicle insurance". im pretty sure its standard on all lease
forms, no matter what make.

and on the back, it says that it goes into default if the insurance isnt
paid.

methinks your friend just doesnt wanna tell you how much he *really* pays
for insurance, so hes playing it off.

 

i dont think they bothered to ask him. they wanna make sure they get their
money when it gets totalled.

 

hm. thats odd. i had the opportunity to buy my civic for $6500 after 3
years. i took it, paid cash. still have the car.

can *you* find a civic thats 3 years old with 32k miles on it for $6500?

 

you have to buy some time, unless you like recurring car payments for the
rest of your life.

ive got better things to spend money on.

 

Makes sense. It isn't his car.

 

If it's 15K, then the lease requires a large down payment. I
sold more leases to buyers in a week, when I was in retail,
then you could ever purchase in your lifetime. If you chose
not to believe the advice I am trying to give that's up to
you, I could not care less. Bye.


mike hunt

 

If it's 15K, then the lease requires a large down payment. I

My friend leased his Lexus with 15K mile/year for $0 down!!!!!!!!!! He only
paid 1st payment and fees.

I believe you really were a car salesman.... cause you're clueless like
one!!!!!!!!






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I do not killfile nor use do-not-call lists.

 

Ah, our village idiot returns...

Why? I've got a garaged S2000 that wont see 12k a year...why pay for
something your not using?

Mike, as usual, gives mis-information and bad advice. Lease your car with
the mileage being under the lowest possible option. Don't listen to dipship,
you say get "...at least 15k a year" no matter what.

(yawn) It is also fine to go 48 months on a lease, but take a look at the
residual and buyout before doing so. It is entirely possible to get a better
deal going 48 months vs. 36. More misinformation from our local dumbass.

Again (man is this getting old) he is wrong. If you negotiate a killer price
up front for a high-end car, and base a 2 year lease on that amount, it may
be entirely advantageous to buy it out at the end of that term.

As usual, Mike talks crap and generalizations on subjects he obviously knows
nothing about. I wouldn't take advice from this clown on how to gap a spark
plug...I strongly suggest you do the same.

As for you Mike...we are still waiting...

 

Finally, some good advice...

Don't listen to this clown.

 

Normally I would not respond to someone that doesn't even know
which direction is 'up,' let alone the subject to which they
responded, but again I don't want others to be confused by the
ramblings.

The only thing in that post that made any semblance of sense was
mentioning a two year lease. A two year lease is indeed the best
lease term, if one drives the average yearly mileage, which is
15K per year in the US. The reason a two year lease is better
than a three is, although the payment is somewhat less, you can
run into the maintenance requirements an well as repairs like
tires, brakes, shock etc. If one did buy the vehicle for the
residual at the end of a two year lease the payment on a two year
finance contract on that 'used' car would be LARGER than the
lease payment if one simply acquired a new vehicle on another two
year lease!! If you did buy it you would, in the end, own a four
year old vehicle with 60K on the clock and have lost all of the
advantages of leasing, rather then having the use of two NEW
vehicles with NO maintenance or repair costs other than oil
changes for the same four years. Pick a selling price and do the
math yourself. When you acquire a two year lease, the residual
in between 70 an 80 percent of the selling price which means you
pay off the principal and interest on only 20 or 30 percent of
the selling price over two years. If you now buy that vehicle
you need to pay off the principal and interest on the remaining
70 or 80 percent, at much higher used car rates, over the same
two years.



mike hunt

 

The only thing in that post that made any semblance of sense was

If you think leasees do anything more than oil changes during their lease term,
you are sadly mistaken.

Most cars nowadays can go 100K before tune-ups and fluid changes, so
maintenance cost isn't a big deal. Plus, some makes include free maintenance.

Personally, if I leased, I would do no more than change the oil... unless the
tires are bald and the brakes squeak... but that's unlikely to happen in the
first 45K miles.



If one did buy the vehicle for the

DUH?


If you did buy it you would, in the end, own a four

I bet you weren't a very successful salesman.

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I do not killfile nor use do-not-call lists.

 

You are correct, if you are the person that keeps their vehicles
till they die, or nearly so, then buy it. Leasing a vehicle, then
buying it at the end is NOT a cost effective way of acquiring a
vehicle however. Leasing is only a lower cost alternative for
those that replace their vehicles in two to three years,
depending on their average mileage. If you dive the average, 15K
in the US, lease for two years with a 30K rate. On the other hand
if you drive less, lease at 12K or 10K. If you only drive 10K,
you can go with a three year lease. In NO case is it cost
effective to buy out the lease. It will always costs more than a
simple finance contract. Leasing for longer than three years is
generally more costly than buying because of the low residual and
you end up repairing and maintaining a vehicle in which you have
no equity.


mike hunt

 

Not true. If at the end of your lease the car is worth more than the buy
out price, it is worth buying if you like the car. If you are not thrilled
with the car, you might consider buying it and then selling it at a profit.