Ordering an 06 Accord.. question

Hi I've posted a few tiems asking question and everyone who ahs replied ahs
been very helpful. I'm ordering an 06 accord very soon, basically had a few
question. if I lease the car, do I go under the current lease promotion or
do I go under whatever lease money factors are being offered during that
current month. (they said about 2 months, unless an "electronic swap" can be
performed (basically a car thats already ordered somewhere else gets sent to
my dealer instead of the orignal one) anyone order a honda built just for
them before? about how long did it take? how many miles were on it from
tests at the factory? and lastly, is there any way to find out what lease
promotions will be next month? thanks!

-Nick

 

Whatever is current when you pick up the car.

Here's an idea: don't buy the money from the same place you're buying
the car. You are under no obligation to lease it from the dealer. You
may acquire the money, under whatever terms you like (purchase, lease)
from places that do nothing but sell money.

You wouldn't buy the car from a bank; why buy the money from a car
dealer?

When you tie the purchase of the car together with the purchase of the
money, you invite abuse into the deal. The guy selling you these things
can abuse the hell out of you.

Instead, set a selling price for the car, a price you're comfortable
with. Period. Then go and get the best deal on the money somewhere
else. Take the money to the car dealer, hand him the money, and take
the car.

It is that simple.

 

I've been looking into that, I'm looking at leasing, found a place on-line
that actually leases and delivers cars for suposivly "the lowest prices
possible" (www.generalcar.com) also found a few places that do leasing. now
the other thign is I'm trading in, so I guess thats where it gets tricky. if
I'm not leasing through the dealer I'm sure they are less apt to give me
what my car is worth (about 13K is the best I've gotten on my 2001 Maxima
SE)

 

Honda products are not custom built, "just for you" or anyone.

 

ok well regardless of it being "custom built" or not, any idea on what sort
of money factor can eb had by going to a different leasing company? would I
still be able to buy the car at the end if I wish?

-Nick

 

If you're trading, that's a THIRD transaction.

If you let one guy do ALL THREE transactions, you WILL get abused.

Instead, do three separate transactions:

1) sell your existing car for cash to someone--individual, used car
dealership, whatever

2) go buy your new money from someone who sells money

3) go buy your car, using that new money, from someone who sells new cars

If you let one guy do all three, you will get screwed. Period.

 

If the dealer's offering a better rate, I'd sign a note with the dealer.

The best rule of thumb (ROT) is that there are no valid ROT's, shop
around for your money same as you do for your car.

 

they use a "foursquare sheet"

sheet divided into 4 squares... each square is a chance to screw you.

1 purchase price
2 APR
3 tradein
4 money down

example: you want a low purchase price? theyll raise your APR, lower
your tradein, and/or make you give more $$$ down.

want a low monthly with no money down? fine! they jack your APR, screw
your tradein, and give you a 72mo loan.

etc, etc...

they can dick around with whatever number they want, to get what THEY
want. your goal is to eliminate as many variables as possible...

1) search for the lowest price... autobytel, sams, costco, AAA
2) line up your own financing beforehand, at the APR you want
3) sell your car private party, for slightly more than bluebook
4) moot- youll be writing them a check for whatever you negotiate

 

Regarding the Trad-in. Correct me if I'm wrong, but some manufactures will
deduct the value of the trade-in off the purchases price, before they add
the tax. Which can add up to big savings from avoiding some of the higher
(15%) taxes.

So, even if the dealer screws you on the purchase price of the trade-in, you
can still recoup that lost if you factor in the gains made from tax brake.

Pars

 

Not manufacturers, but states. That's a state by state issue.

 

well, I sold my car (dealer was going to orignally give me 12k for it when I
looked at a 2005. and now I want to order a 2006 and already had 2 prices
WELL below them he aid he'd give me 10k. I laughed in his face and sold my
car for 14,000. I found out the car is being built on nov. 16th and they
should get it 1-2 weeks after that. now I'm leasing it and know my credit
score (about 740) so I should qualify for top tear and I'm trying to find
the money factor for november before I even step in there. (last time I got
a line from the guy saying in the state of rhode island it's "illegal" to
calculate the money factor into a percentage) so I think I'm cutting out as
many ways as possible for them to screw me. now, just need those money
factors ;-)

-Nick

 

Congrats on the great credit score, but no need to cry.