Overheated 98 Accord LX - head or engine replacement?

The engine started overheating and I shut it down. I added water at the
gas station. It was fine for a 4 few miles then same thing. Filled it
up. Got it home. I had one more case and the coolant was steaming out.
My guess is the stupid electric fans failed. I took it to the
mechanic and he said their is oil in the water. So it could be:

1. Head gasket.
2. Head (how much?)
3. Replace with a used engine about $2700.

They are suggesting a used engine because it has 82,000 miles and the
car is (engine was) in good shape. Almost like new. He said why
replace the top end when you take a chance the bootom end could have
been damaged. He said "block" for bottom end.

They will spend 3 hours trying to see if the bottom end was damaged.
Any suggestions?

If you lose one of these fans, you can cook you engine fast. And if
you fail to look at your gauges regularly - you are screwed. If you
ever see the your temp gauge go up - shut it down and call a tow truck.
Get roadside assistance and towing if you don't have it.

Any ide aof the cost of a 4 cyl Camry or Accord LX out the door? I do
not like leasing but I am considering a lease on a new Accord.

 

Has anyone ever tried this?
http://www.rxauto.com/index.htm

 

Has anyone ever tried this?
http://www.rxauto.com/index.htm

 

I'm much too cheap to spend that kind of money so when my '83 Civic was
blowing bubbles in the coolant, I used KW block seal and followed the
instructions but doubled the application and cure times. This was in
May and I have not had a hint of overheating since.

But, the breach has to be small (and a small breach can cause an engine
to overheat quickly as my car did).

Of course, every situation will be different. An overheated '98 model
probably is more serious than my '83. You should get a lot of advice on
this NG.

JT

 

I'm much too cheap to spend that kind of money so when my '83 Civic was
blowing bubbles in the coolant, I used KW block seal and followed the
instructions but doubled the application and cure times. This was in
May and I have not had a hint of overheating since.

But, the breach has to be small (and a small breach can cause an engine
to overheat quickly as my car did).

Of course, every situation will be different. An overheated '98 model
probably is more serious than my '83. You should get a lot of advice on
this NG.

JT

 

The cooling fans on the radiator are not kicking in. The fuse is fine.
Is it:
1. Fans?
2. Some realy switch?
3. Heat sensor?


The engines can overheat incredibly fast and if you are not looking at
your gauges, you are screwed. What is a good oil to try to protect in
case you fail to shut it down fast enough?

Any other back up idea's to the fans?

 

The cooling fans on the radiator are not kicking in. The fuse is fine.
Is it:
1. Fans?
2. Some realy switch?
3. Heat sensor?


The engines can overheat incredibly fast and if you are not looking at
your gauges, you are screwed. What is a good oil to try to protect in
case you fail to shut it down fast enough?

Any other back up idea's to the fans?

 

Besides these, also check the wiring. Granted, they were Dodge's, but 2 of
my last 3 vehicles had wiring go bad that caused the fans to stop working.

Beyond that, I doubt anyone can tell you the cause. It will take
troubleshooting.

I would highly recommend not driving it until it is fixed. The Oil isn't
your main problem. I would worry more about the head warping, or the head
gasket blowing, or both.

Not really. Except for remaining in motion at all times and running the
heater.

If you are not handy (or confident) in troubleshooting this sort of
problem, I would recommend getting the car to a good mechanic ASAP and have
them do it for you. What would likely cost $100 or less now could cost you
thousands soon if not properly attended to.

--
Joseph M. LaVigne

http://www.thelavignefamily.us/MyPipePages/ - 9/18/2006 1:59:26 AM
Tobacconist Brick and Mortar Database: http://bam.tobaccocellar.org/

A clever person solves a problem.
A wise person avoids it. -- Einstein

 

Besides these, also check the wiring. Granted, they were Dodge's, but 2 of
my last 3 vehicles had wiring go bad that caused the fans to stop working.

Beyond that, I doubt anyone can tell you the cause. It will take
troubleshooting.

I would highly recommend not driving it until it is fixed. The Oil isn't
your main problem. I would worry more about the head warping, or the head
gasket blowing, or both.

Not really. Except for remaining in motion at all times and running the
heater.

If you are not handy (or confident) in troubleshooting this sort of
problem, I would recommend getting the car to a good mechanic ASAP and have
them do it for you. What would likely cost $100 or less now could cost you
thousands soon if not properly attended to.

--
Joseph M. LaVigne

http://www.thelavignefamily.us/MyPipePages/ - 9/18/2006 1:59:26 AM
Tobacconist Brick and Mortar Database: http://bam.tobaccocellar.org/

A clever person solves a problem.
A wise person avoids it. -- Einstein

 

If there is 12v at the connector to the fan, the fan is bad.

Yes, there is a fan relay.

Yes, there is a thermosensor also..

If the engine warms to normal temp, and no voltage is at the
fan, unplug the wires from the sensor, and short together
with a jumper to bypass the sensor. If it now works, the
sensor is bad. If still no good, check the fan relay and wiring.

Overheating the typical aluminum or aluminum/iron motor is the
worst thing you can do. The kiss of death many times. I watch
my temp gauge often. Normally mine never varies from it's appx
1/3 level. If it even approached halfway, I'd know I was overheating,
and would shut it down. Usually the first engine related sign of
overheating is usually increased pinging.
If you ever start pinging real bad, shut it down and make sure it's
not real hot, even if the gauge reads ok. Actually, a gauge would
usually show it, but this is a good indicator on a car with an
idiot light. Many times a light won't go off until it's belching
steam..
MK

 

If there is 12v at the connector to the fan, the fan is bad.

Yes, there is a fan relay.

Yes, there is a thermosensor also..

If the engine warms to normal temp, and no voltage is at the
fan, unplug the wires from the sensor, and short together
with a jumper to bypass the sensor. If it now works, the
sensor is bad. If still no good, check the fan relay and wiring.

Overheating the typical aluminum or aluminum/iron motor is the
worst thing you can do. The kiss of death many times. I watch
my temp gauge often. Normally mine never varies from it's appx
1/3 level. If it even approached halfway, I'd know I was overheating,
and would shut it down. Usually the first engine related sign of
overheating is usually increased pinging.
If you ever start pinging real bad, shut it down and make sure it's
not real hot, even if the gauge reads ok. Actually, a gauge would
usually show it, but this is a good indicator on a car with an
idiot light. Many times a light won't go off until it's belching
steam..
MK