overheating?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by imblest11, Jul 5, 2007.

  1. imblest11

    imblest11 Guest

    I have a 95 Honda Accord. Whenever we let it idle or drive for a while
    afterward there is a boiling sound from the radiator overflow tank. At
    first we thought it was just low so we filled it to the max and then
    let it suck up whatever it needed and then refilled it. Now, it seems
    to be at an adequate level but it's still boiling. The weird thing is
    that the temperature gauge in the dash doesn't seem to register the
    heat. It doesn't seem to be moving at all. We just had a friend
    replace the thermostat like we thought the problem was from
    originally, but that didn't seem to do the trick. Does anyone know
    what the problem could be?
     
    imblest11, Jul 5, 2007
    #1
  2. imblest11

    Earle Horton Guest

    Lots of things. Is the fan coming on? Do you see a leak? Is there coolant
    at the tail end of the exhaust pipe? If there is a leak, and you let it get
    low enough, the "boiling" now could be the cooling system getting rid of
    vestiges of air from the engine. Carry a jug of Honda Genuine coolant, and
    if the level in the overflow tank goes down more, then you might have a
    leak. If you ever over heated the engine, you might have a head gasket
    leak.

    Saludos cordiales,

    Earle
     
    Earle Horton, Jul 5, 2007
    #2
  3. imblest11

    jim beam Guest

    blown head gasket.
     
    jim beam, Jul 5, 2007
    #3
  4. imblest11

    imblest11 Guest

    The fans weren't coming on until we refilled it. Then it seemed like
    only one of them was coming on. We didn't see any leaks though. We are
    now thinking that maybe when we changed the thermostat that air got
    into line and it is trying to get all that out. So I'm going to watch
    for coolant in exhaust pipe and see if it stops "boiling" . If not
    then I think it may be a head gasket which would not be good.
     
    imblest11, Jul 5, 2007
    #4
  5. imblest11

    jim beam Guest

    the expansion tank doesn't "boil", it's gas from a leaking head gasket
    getting into the coolant and bubbling through to the only possible exit,
    the expansion tank. coolant in the exhaust is only a late stage symptom.

    sorry about the bad news, but you need to get this fixed right away
    before damage to the head or block occurs. confirm with a hydrocarbon
    chemical test of coolant fluid if you wish to be sure. but head gasket
    is a 99.999% certainty.

    if price is a factor, suggest you look into the cost of repair vs.
    replacement of the motor. many head gasket repairs are not done well
    and engines tend not to last well after surgery. it'll cost you $450 -
    $600 for a low mileage used motor from japan - and labor to swap is less
    than all the work necessary to do the gasket.
     
    jim beam, Jul 5, 2007
    #5
  6. imblest11

    Earle Horton Guest

    To add just a little, head gasket is moderately easy to replace, but
    evaluating the head for damage is the tough part. That is why Jim is
    recommending the used engine from Japan.

    If you do the labor yourself or in exchange for beer, then it wouldn't be so
    bad to replace the gasket hoping it would fix things. But if you are paying
    a commercial garage rate, you can burn through the cash pretty fast, and
    still wind up with problems.

    Saludos cordiales,

    Earle
     
    Earle Horton, Jul 5, 2007
    #6
  7. imblest11

    jim beam Guest

    kinda. it's relatively easy to check for warping. cracking is a little
    harder, but not likely. the biggest problem is shops routinely skimming
    heads when they don't need it, using abrasives, and then acting all
    "surprised" when the motor's shot 9 months later.
    if you're doing it yourself, and not pricing the time, it's cheap. but
    you need to know what you're doing, need to have a few special tools.
    with the honda, it's an 8 hour job if you're doing it carefully, and a
    huge chunk of that is just the clean-up before reassembly. in the old
    days where it's just a pushrod cast iron head/block, it's a breeze. you
    can use a blunt scraper to clean the head/block and get it done in a
    couple of hours at the most. once you get into the alloy head/block
    thing, it's very time consuming with careful cleanup, overhead cam, cam
    timing, etc., it gets to be a pita.
    yes indeed.
     
    jim beam, Jul 5, 2007
    #7
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