Oxygen Sensor

Hello people!

I have unfortunately fallen into the hapless section of society facing
both a cash crunch and car trouble at the same time...looking for
salvation here.

I need to replace the oxygen sensor on my 1996 civic HX... is this a
task uncomplicated enough for me to undertake armed with a set of
tools? My skills : can use tools and can comprehend clear legible
instructions. Will something like a Haynes Manual give me the required
know-how for the job??

Suggestions/tips are highly appreciated.

 

I'd be sure to soak it in a good penetrant (like Kroil) oil way in
advance -- it will cause some smoke when you fire it back up, but it
will be worth it.
You'll need a special socket for it -- The do sell (possibly rent)
these sockets at part places
Sometimes you need to heat the socket to get it out.
Also be sure to not crossthread the sensor - a friend of mine did that
and it really didn't want to come back out well.
I'd put some anti seize compount on the thread before you put it back
in. Make sure that compound doesn't get in contact with the sensing
portion, because that could ruin it.
Also be sure to properly torque the sensor.

Remco

 

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Best suggestion: post your mileage, and your reason for thinking you
NEED an oxygen sensor, and get about TWENTY second opinions before
getting hosed for a sensor you may not need. Also, is your rad and
reservoir full, have you checked carefully for vacuum leaks under the
hood? Give the actual CODE numbers too (not the interpretation).

'Curly'

 

It's simple to remove it. An O2 sensor wrench would be easiest if it's
stuck on but mine came off easily with an adjustable wrench.

If it's failing because it's slow, you might be able to clean it. Fill
a stainless steel pan with 1/3 Lime Away tile cleaner (acid) and 2/3
purified water. Drop in the whole sensor and boil lightly for an hour
or two. Rinse thoroughly and boil it two more times using only purified
water. Mount it on the car and immediately drive to burn off the water.

I've done it twice so far. I figured the second time would ruin it but
it still works perfectly.

 

That's a neat trick -- I'll have to remember that one. Thanks!
Remco

 

i second that!

 

And we keep getting told "You Can't Clean Oxygen Sensors"...

 

there could be a reason - prolonged exposure to high temp does cause
things like creep & diffusion, so who knows. but this is a good
observation & definitely something i intend trying myself!

 

My 88 Toyota Tercel cracked its sensor. There is a lot of mechanical,
thermal, and chemical strain on it. Cleaning only works if the sensor
is covered with ash but otherwise good. It could also destroy it. Try
at your own risk

 

no problem to replace,go to local auto zone and rent a oxygen sensor
socket.clear code if ck engine light is on

 

Hey guys! I finally managed to pull out the codes from my 96 Cvic. Only
code that came up was PO135. It also says O2 sensor heater circuit
malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1). This is just after I got a new post cat.
O2 sensor. Can someone tell me whats goin on? My vehicles OBDII.

 

boo-yah! i had the same exact thing, 98 civic hatch. you want the top O2
sensor, that screws into the exhaust manifold. the one youre staring at
when you open the hood. why did you change the post cat one? did you get
a code for that, too? my post cat is still good.

anyhoo... mine started failing slowly, and resetting the light caused it
to be OK for shorter and shorter amounts of time. a week, 3 days, 1 day,
then the MIL stayed on. car wouldnt idle right, either. stalled at stop
signs, etc.

so i bit the bullet, and called around. i wanted an OEM one, since ive
had the car since new. napa, autozone, etc didnt have one in stock- sold
out. dealer had one, for bout $200. so i got it, and 10 mins later,
everything was back to normal.

BTW: that was last summer. took the biennual smog check (california) a
month ago, and passed with lower numbers than i did 2 years ago! so
yeah- the O2 sensor does something!

 

It means the UPstream (pre-cat) O2 sensor's heater has failed. This means
the sensor is now relying on exhaust heat to warm it up, just as if it were
a pre-'92 single-wire sensor.

This will increase emissions for a minute or two after startup, so it
doesn't mean much in the long run, except that you won't pass smog with
error codes stored.

The post-cat sensor just measures converter efficiency.