oxygen sensors

Which is double-plus ungood, by the way.

 

i posted it was B16A on the boss; maybe you missed it, or i absent
mindedly replied to only one newsgroup or something.
but thanks, i found the sensor where you said, correct wire color and
all. the temp gauge doesn't move when i ground the wire, which
according to manual means that end of the setup is malfunctioning
rather than the sensor. the temp gauge did go up when the heater hose
blew, though, so ??? anyway, bad wiring i can deal with no problem.
bad combustion might be a factor; i finally got around to replacing
the plugs today, and the old ones weren't iridium, and were pretty
badly gone. i'm amazed the engine wasn't symptomatic, but maybe it was
as you describe. i haven't had a chance to take it on a serious run
since replacing the plugs, but maybe now it'll heat up some. gotta
find my timing light, too.
it's always been a good running engine, though, healthy power up to
redline; but also one that ran rich and cool. i wish i was rich and
cool....

 

i posted it was B16A on the boss; maybe you missed it, or i absent
mindedly replied to only one newsgroup or something.
but thanks, i found the sensor where you said, correct wire color and
all. the temp gauge doesn't move when i ground the wire, which
according to manual means that end of the setup is malfunctioning
rather than the sensor. the temp gauge did go up when the heater hose
blew, though, so ??? anyway, bad wiring i can deal with no problem.
bad combustion might be a factor; i finally got around to replacing
the plugs today, and the old ones weren't iridium, and were pretty
badly gone. i'm amazed the engine wasn't symptomatic, but maybe it was
as you describe. i haven't had a chance to take it on a serious run
since replacing the plugs, but maybe now it'll heat up some. gotta
find my timing light, too.
it's always been a good running engine, though, healthy power up to
redline; but also one that ran rich and cool. i wish i was rich and
cool....

 

The B16A was a JDM-only engine.

Either the gauge is blown or the wire has a break in it. When engines
are swapped, it's common for wires to get accidentally overextended
(stretched) or pinched between parts. It may that be you had partial
connectivity when the hose blew.

You can get a new dash cluster from a wreckers, and test that gauge. If
that one works, swap it into your existing cluster.

***WARNING***
Turn ignition OFF before testing gauge. Ground the gauge wire from the
sender FIRST, THEN turn the ignition on. DO NOT ALLOW the gauge needle
to reach "H" once the ignition is turned on! Doing so will wreck the
gauge! All you need to see is definite needle movement from its home
position. Once you're certain the needle is moving, TURN THE KEY OFF
QUICKLY; it can shoot up fast!

I hope you put the right plugs in.

Maybe you were so used to crappy running you were used to it.

This engine has _not_ had good care. Lord only knows what else is wrong
with it.

Timing lights with built in tachs are all of $75 or so. A very good
investment. You have a 2-degree + or - tolerance on timing. A timing
light is 100% necessary to achieve that precision. The engine will not
run properly (and may be damaged) with incorrect timing.

Rich and cool in an engine is very bad. Rich and cool eats up your rings
and bearings so fast it's amazing. Get your ride fixed ASAP, or start
saving for a new engine.

 

The B16A was a JDM-only engine.

Either the gauge is blown or the wire has a break in it. When engines
are swapped, it's common for wires to get accidentally overextended
(stretched) or pinched between parts. It may that be you had partial
connectivity when the hose blew.

You can get a new dash cluster from a wreckers, and test that gauge. If
that one works, swap it into your existing cluster.

***WARNING***
Turn ignition OFF before testing gauge. Ground the gauge wire from the
sender FIRST, THEN turn the ignition on. DO NOT ALLOW the gauge needle
to reach "H" once the ignition is turned on! Doing so will wreck the
gauge! All you need to see is definite needle movement from its home
position. Once you're certain the needle is moving, TURN THE KEY OFF
QUICKLY; it can shoot up fast!

I hope you put the right plugs in.

Maybe you were so used to crappy running you were used to it.

This engine has _not_ had good care. Lord only knows what else is wrong
with it.

Timing lights with built in tachs are all of $75 or so. A very good
investment. You have a 2-degree + or - tolerance on timing. A timing
light is 100% necessary to achieve that precision. The engine will not
run properly (and may be damaged) with incorrect timing.

Rich and cool in an engine is very bad. Rich and cool eats up your rings
and bearings so fast it's amazing. Get your ride fixed ASAP, or start
saving for a new engine.

 

yep. this is one of the slow boat from nippon swaps.

no, i got onto the ngk site and decoded the code, and those are the
correct indium plugs heat range, etc.

maybe... it goes pretty quick except a while ago i got on the onramp
behind a subaru wrx sti who seemed to be in a hurry. that certainly
changes your sense of scale regarding acceleration.

oh i could send you a list. when they say those japanese junkyard
engines are only lightly used, don't believe them. this one got a good
going over before installation, and has needed a lot of work since.
just a couple off oddities: no oil pan gasket, just a bead of silicon
goo. stripped engine mount bolt holes in the front of the engine.

but it does run happy.

well, lots of frequent oil changes in an attempt to stave off the oil
dilution. i still can't figure out what could keep an engine from
getting at least normally hot after half an hour or more of vigorous
driving on the interstate in the summer. particularly with several
different new thermostats in there.

 

yep. this is one of the slow boat from nippon swaps.

no, i got onto the ngk site and decoded the code, and those are the
correct indium plugs heat range, etc.

maybe... it goes pretty quick except a while ago i got on the onramp
behind a subaru wrx sti who seemed to be in a hurry. that certainly
changes your sense of scale regarding acceleration.

oh i could send you a list. when they say those japanese junkyard
engines are only lightly used, don't believe them. this one got a good
going over before installation, and has needed a lot of work since.
just a couple off oddities: no oil pan gasket, just a bead of silicon
goo. stripped engine mount bolt holes in the front of the engine.

but it does run happy.

well, lots of frequent oil changes in an attempt to stave off the oil
dilution. i still can't figure out what could keep an engine from
getting at least normally hot after half an hour or more of vigorous
driving on the interstate in the summer. particularly with several
different new thermostats in there.

 

Find that timing light. You may be dumping all the combustion into the
exhaust manifold.

Also, is the spark bright purply blue at the plugs? Check with a spare plug
(any type will do so long as the gap is correct) in a dark garage or at
night.

(Removed the crosspost to rec.autos.tech, as nobody's replying there
anyway.)

 

Find that timing light. You may be dumping all the combustion into the
exhaust manifold.

Also, is the spark bright purply blue at the plugs? Check with a spare plug
(any type will do so long as the gap is correct) in a dark garage or at
night.

(Removed the crosspost to rec.autos.tech, as nobody's replying there
anyway.)