Pinging, pinking, knocking...?

Jim: Yes, I did set the timing with the 2P connector jumped. It seems
the timing really was advanced by about 1 degree.

Very interesting that you mentioned the timing belt. It was in fact
replaced last week, but by a very good mechanic, and I closely watched
the entire process (took a few hours). And I've had this "pinging" even
with the old belt. Still, I'd like to be sure.

How can I test you theory out?

 

Yes, it definitely comes from the front. Now that Sharx333 has solved
his problem by tweaking his timing, I am definitely going to have a
second look at my own timing......my "clicking" comes on occasionally
when cruising at 65-70 mph. None at lower speeds.

 

Yes, it definitely comes from the front. Now that Sharx333 has solved
his problem by tweaking his timing, I am definitely going to have a
second look at my own timing......my "clicking" comes on occasionally
when cruising at 65-70 mph. None at lower speeds.

 

The 2005 HAH momentarily over advances so badly that the pinging becomes
chaotic, like running over a whoopie cushion. The HAH control systems
are so unrefined that I could cry.

Tailpipe farting is usually a sign of retarded timing. It's odd that
you have both. Is some ECU signal, like a knock sensor, broken? Or a
stuck EGR valve?

 

The 2005 HAH momentarily over advances so badly that the pinging becomes
chaotic, like running over a whoopie cushion. The HAH control systems
are so unrefined that I could cry.

Tailpipe farting is usually a sign of retarded timing. It's odd that
you have both. Is some ECU signal, like a knock sensor, broken? Or a
stuck EGR valve?

 

the distributor should be right in the middle of the adjusting slots.
if it's too far at one end or the other, the belt's out.

some more thoughts:

1. if the timing belt is loose, the timing marks will jump about under
the strobe. they should be rock steady if the belt is correctly
tensioned. in my experience, very few honda belts are tensioned
correctly on replacement, so check just to be sure you eliminate this
timing variance from the equation.

2. do you have the correct grade of spark plug? an incorrect grade
running too hot will cause pre-ignition.

3. check the distributor internals. if the pickup coils or reluctors
have broken free and are moving about, that would explain your need to
constantly readjust timing.

 

the distributor should be right in the middle of the adjusting slots.
if it's too far at one end or the other, the belt's out.

some more thoughts:

1. if the timing belt is loose, the timing marks will jump about under
the strobe. they should be rock steady if the belt is correctly
tensioned. in my experience, very few honda belts are tensioned
correctly on replacement, so check just to be sure you eliminate this
timing variance from the equation.

2. do you have the correct grade of spark plug? an incorrect grade
running too hot will cause pre-ignition.

3. check the distributor internals. if the pickup coils or reluctors
have broken free and are moving about, that would explain your need to
constantly readjust timing.

 

Kevin: I don't notice the tailpipe "farting" unless I'm outside, near
the tailpipe and someone else is driving. So it could well be gone by
now.

I do remember the timing marks jumping about before the belt was
replaced. But with the new belt, the marks are now rock-steady.

Jim: Will check out the distributor ASAP. But I do remember a curious
thing: When the timing belt was being replaced, the mechanic seemed to
have a hard time trying to get the pulley marks aligned. I never did
quite see if he got them perfectly lined up. It's as if the marks were
somehow misaligned, or the belt was the wrong size (??). Could
something like that have happened? Would it run if, say, a belt with
an extra tooth was put on? We based the new timing belt on the old one
(107 teeth), but the previous mechanic could have messed it up.. Is
this possible?

 

Kevin: I don't notice the tailpipe "farting" unless I'm outside, near
the tailpipe and someone else is driving. So it could well be gone by
now.

I do remember the timing marks jumping about before the belt was
replaced. But with the new belt, the marks are now rock-steady.

Jim: Will check out the distributor ASAP. But I do remember a curious
thing: When the timing belt was being replaced, the mechanic seemed to
have a hard time trying to get the pulley marks aligned. I never did
quite see if he got them perfectly lined up. It's as if the marks were
somehow misaligned, or the belt was the wrong size (??). Could
something like that have happened? Would it run if, say, a belt with
an extra tooth was put on? We based the new timing belt on the old one
(107 teeth), but the previous mechanic could have messed it up.. Is
this possible?

 

Jim: Yes, I have the correct plugs (NGK BKR6E-11). Just to eliminate
other suspects, I also recently:

* Added fuel injector cleaner (Prestone brand, about 1 month ago)
* Replaced PCV
* New distributor rotor
* Replaced ignition coil
* Oil changed
* New timing belt

(All original Honda parts)

 

Jim: Yes, I have the correct plugs (NGK BKR6E-11). Just to eliminate
other suspects, I also recently:

* Added fuel injector cleaner (Prestone brand, about 1 month ago)
* Replaced PCV
* New distributor rotor
* Replaced ignition coil
* Oil changed
* New timing belt

(All original Honda parts)

 

if you bought the correct oem belt, there should be no problem.
inability to get them exactly aligned is highly suspect. in my
experience, when the the cam and crank are set right, they are /exactly/
aligned. it's not as easy to set honda belts as it would first appear,
and as i said before, they're frequently set either wrong, or too slack
so that they skip. slackness is easily detected by "flutter" in the
ignition timing.

tension is set by aligning the belt, turning the crank so the cam
advances 3 teeth [so there's pull generated by the cam lobes/valve
springs], then tightening the tensioner pulley. turn the crank so the
belt rotates 3 full times, then repeat the tensioning process exactly as
before so the run between cam and crank is under the 3-tooth tension
when set. /then/ check the belt timing just to be certain. if correct,
they align exactly. if they're out, slack the tensioner and adjust the
cam one tooth in whatever direction required. do NOT rotate the crank
clockwise at any point in this process!!!

 

if you bought the correct oem belt, there should be no problem.
inability to get them exactly aligned is highly suspect. in my
experience, when the the cam and crank are set right, they are /exactly/
aligned. it's not as easy to set honda belts as it would first appear,
and as i said before, they're frequently set either wrong, or too slack
so that they skip. slackness is easily detected by "flutter" in the
ignition timing.

tension is set by aligning the belt, turning the crank so the cam
advances 3 teeth [so there's pull generated by the cam lobes/valve
springs], then tightening the tensioner pulley. turn the crank so the
belt rotates 3 full times, then repeat the tensioning process exactly as
before so the run between cam and crank is under the 3-tooth tension
when set. /then/ check the belt timing just to be certain. if correct,
they align exactly. if they're out, slack the tensioner and adjust the
cam one tooth in whatever direction required. do NOT rotate the crank
clockwise at any point in this process!!!

 

You can't see if the pulleys are aligned or not, because the fender gets in
the way of a good look. Unless one does these every day, it is typical to
check the alignment several times. I never heard of anyone getting it
wrong, and driving it. I suppose that it is possible, but it would run real
bad. The timing marks were jumping around because the old belt no longer
had the proper tension.

Earle

 

You can't see if the pulleys are aligned or not, because the fender gets in
the way of a good look. Unless one does these every day, it is typical to
check the alignment several times. I never heard of anyone getting it
wrong, and driving it. I suppose that it is possible, but it would run real
bad. The timing marks were jumping around because the old belt no longer
had the proper tension.

Earle