poll - high mileage civics, what oil U burn ?

great! i knew an expert would show up and give some good info

i am weary of web searches more garbage and non-info than useful stuff

so there is no synthetic process that uses or alters some base stock oils ?
is it possible to use base oils (cracking into the short chains you mention)
?

can short chains be more easily derived from used oil as per re-refining
used motor oils ?

do you happen to know if there is some standards on synthetic labeling ? as
someone claimed that walmart synthetic is mfg from re-cycled oil by
SafetyCleen .

of course if you have links to this info then i could go do the work

thanks for info
robb

 

<<As for synthentic oil, dirt still gets in and churns around just like
with ordinary oil so I believe it should be changed just as frequently
so why pay more for it?>>

Because it makes a difference in extremely cold climates?

I became a believer in synthetic about 18 years ago. A group of us
were on a winter camping trip. It was 25 degrees below zero (minus 75
with wind chill). We had six vehicles at the site. In the morning,
one by one we tried to start them. The first 5 vehicles failed to
start (they could barely crank). The guy who owned the 6th vehicle
was sitting on a picnic bench watching with a smile on his face. When
it came his turn, he put the key in, turned it, the engine cranked very
rapidly and started. Everybody wanted to know what the heck he did to
his car. The answer was Mobil 1.

The following winter I had two vehicles, one of which had Mobil 1 and
the other not. Both vehicles happened to be parked outside one night
when the temperature got down to minus 22. The next morning I went to
start the non-Mobil1-vehicle and it did start, but it made the most
spine-chilling screaming and metallic scraping noise. I figured that
was good for about 100,000 miles of engine wear right there. I shut it
off and started the Mobil1 vehicle. It cranked rapidly and started
right up with no unusual behavior.

I know these stories are anecdotal but that has been my experience.
Now I use Mobil1 in all my vehicles in the winter. I also use Mobil1
in my air-cooled lawn tractor, which has only a splash lube system,
because I tend to abuse it (cutting tall brush to clear trails). My
understanding is that synthetic has better extreme high temperature
behavior (maintains viscosity better and doesn't chemically break
down).

EJ

 

<<As for synthentic oil, dirt still gets in and churns around just like
with ordinary oil so I believe it should be changed just as frequently
so why pay more for it?>>

Because it makes a difference in extremely cold climates?

I became a believer in synthetic about 18 years ago. A group of us
were on a winter camping trip. It was 25 degrees below zero (minus 75
with wind chill). We had six vehicles at the site. In the morning,
one by one we tried to start them. The first 5 vehicles failed to
start (they could barely crank). The guy who owned the 6th vehicle
was sitting on a picnic bench watching with a smile on his face. When
it came his turn, he put the key in, turned it, the engine cranked very
rapidly and started. Everybody wanted to know what the heck he did to
his car. The answer was Mobil 1.

The following winter I had two vehicles, one of which had Mobil 1 and
the other not. Both vehicles happened to be parked outside one night
when the temperature got down to minus 22. The next morning I went to
start the non-Mobil1-vehicle and it did start, but it made the most
spine-chilling screaming and metallic scraping noise. I figured that
was good for about 100,000 miles of engine wear right there. I shut it
off and started the Mobil1 vehicle. It cranked rapidly and started
right up with no unusual behavior.

I know these stories are anecdotal but that has been my experience.
Now I use Mobil1 in all my vehicles in the winter. I also use Mobil1
in my air-cooled lawn tractor, which has only a splash lube system,
because I tend to abuse it (cutting tall brush to clear trails). My
understanding is that synthetic has better extreme high temperature
behavior (maintains viscosity better and doesn't chemically break
down).

EJ

 

which i think is BS, like wendy's making hamburgers from worms. the
safetykleen website makes no mention of it being an oil producer.

 

which i think is BS, like wendy's making hamburgers from worms. the
safetykleen website makes no mention of it being an oil producer.

 

Can't remember. I just did an oil change and decide to switch to 0w30
instead of 0w40 because of the winter. In spring, I'll switch back to
the 0w40. The 0w30 has a black cap, but I don't recall any red caps for
the 0w40.

I'll have to take a closer look at the bottle on my next oil change for
the starburst symbol. From the bottle, the 0w40 was recommended for
european cars and the 0w30 for high efficiency.

Pars

 

Can't remember. I just did an oil change and decide to switch to 0w30
instead of 0w40 because of the winter. In spring, I'll switch back to
the 0w40. The 0w30 has a black cap, but I don't recall any red caps for
the 0w40.

I'll have to take a closer look at the bottle on my next oil change for
the starburst symbol. From the bottle, the 0w40 was recommended for
european cars and the 0w30 for high efficiency.

Pars

 

Can't remember. I just did an oil change and decide to switch to 0w30
instead of 0w40 because of the winter. In spring, I'll switch back to
the 0w40. The 0w30 has a black cap, but I don't recall any red caps for
the 0w40.

I'll have to take a closer look at the bottle on my next oil change for
the starburst symbol. From the bottle, the 0w40 was recommended for
european cars and the 0w30 for high efficiency.

Pars

 

Can't remember. I just did an oil change and decide to switch to 0w30
instead of 0w40 because of the winter. In spring, I'll switch back to
the 0w40. The 0w30 has a black cap, but I don't recall any red caps for
the 0w40.

I'll have to take a closer look at the bottle on my next oil change for
the starburst symbol. From the bottle, the 0w40 was recommended for
european cars and the 0w30 for high efficiency.

Pars

 

But they do have REFINERIES. The site mentions that fact.
<http://www.safetykleen.com/skcda/views/pages/channel/home.do;jsessionid=DO8dT7YEsulFUGuZEqiKFctYdRX5EoTqKz6uhm0S2Y5fPB7VjDWe!1462935964?channel=e748b71d>

 

But they do have REFINERIES. The site mentions that fact.
<http://www.safetykleen.com/skcda/views/pages/channel/home.do;jsessionid=DO8dT7YEsulFUGuZEqiKFctYdRX5EoTqKz6uhm0S2Y5fPB7VjDWe!1462935964?channel=e748b71d>

 

interesting. yet, they dont list the finished product under "products".

 

interesting. yet, they dont list the finished product under "products".

 

My line of thinking is, if you change the oil, oil filter, and air filter at
the recommended intervals, you should be fine. My previous car, an 88
Maxima SE, had 170K miles, never burned oil, never leaked any and never
required any in between changes. It was changed about every 4K to 5K miles.

My current car, an 04 Accord EX, Honda recommends changing every 10K miles.
I change mine every 5K. I currently have 68K miles on it, still going
strong and hope to keep it that way.

 

My line of thinking is, if you change the oil, oil filter, and air filter at
the recommended intervals, you should be fine. My previous car, an 88
Maxima SE, had 170K miles, never burned oil, never leaked any and never
required any in between changes. It was changed about every 4K to 5K miles.

My current car, an 04 Accord EX, Honda recommends changing every 10K miles.
I change mine every 5K. I currently have 68K miles on it, still going
strong and hope to keep it that way.

 

That seems to be a prevailing consensus, properly changed dino oil and will
keep the car going well into high mileage and i tend to agree

since my car is at 200K though and burning/loosing about 1/2 qt between
changes and the oil comes out looking like liquid charcoal... i wonder if i
need to do something extra special to counter the wear/tear that apparently
has occured

i want to keep it going another 100k hopefully without major engine
overhaul.

thanks for feedback
robb

 

That seems to be a prevailing consensus, properly changed dino oil and will
keep the car going well into high mileage and i tend to agree

since my car is at 200K though and burning/loosing about 1/2 qt between
changes and the oil comes out looking like liquid charcoal... i wonder if i
need to do something extra special to counter the wear/tear that apparently
has occured

i want to keep it going another 100k hopefully without major engine
overhaul.

thanks for feedback
robb

 

Did you say what the condition of your PCV valve is?

If it's the original PCV valve, I would do the pinch test
(with a cloth wrapped around the tube to the valve, pinch
the tube shut. Listen at least 30 seconds for a click,
indicating the valve is working at least somewhat). This
will serve as a kind of benchmark. Still, even if it passes
this test, I'd replace the valve. Twenty bucks or so. Buy
only an OEM one.

 

Did you say what the condition of your PCV valve is?

If it's the original PCV valve, I would do the pinch test
(with a cloth wrapped around the tube to the valve, pinch
the tube shut. Listen at least 30 seconds for a click,
indicating the valve is working at least somewhat). This
will serve as a kind of benchmark. Still, even if it passes
this test, I'd replace the valve. Twenty bucks or so. Buy
only an OEM one.

 

Date: Tues, Jan 17 2006 3:19 am

This doesn't make sense: It was TeGGeR who argued that
making "synthetic" from waste oil doesn't work BECAUSE
OF THE HIGH COSTS OF CLEANING IT. Cleaning used oil, I
responded, doesn't make synthetic oil. On the other
hand, I believe it is economical to make motor oil by
"rerefining" used oil. And if the used oil were ONLY
synthetic then the "rerefined" oil would be synthetic oil.


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