Problem with my 1990 Civic 4WD wagon

Discussion in 'Civic' started by bunny, Jan 8, 2006.

  1. bunny

    bunny Guest

    I appreciate all comments about my 1990 Civic 4WD wagon. Two weeks
    ago, I bought the car from an old lady that I knew for over 10 years.
    She bought a brand new Camry, so she had not been driving the Civic for
    3 months. Well, after I test-drove it for 10 minutes, the engine over
    heated. I drove it back to her, checked the radiator - I did not see
    any coolant. Then I bought a gallon of coolant and filled up the
    radiator with almost 1 full gallon. Then the over heat problem was
    resolved and I bought the car for $2000 (did not negotiate.)

    I have been driving it to work for 2 weeks. Every day when I drive the
    car, I smell something very unpleasant and the smell makes me sick. It
    smells like coolant, my wife said it smells like exhaust gas. I took
    the car to a "moon-lighting" mechanic. After a few minutes diagnosis,
    he commented that the car did not worth $2000. The car may need new
    brake pads and the CV joints may not be in good shape. These may cost
    $400. Other than these, he could not find the source of the unpleasant
    smell. Then he started the engine and noticed that there was excessive
    white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe/muffler. He said it was
    abnormal, the engine has potential problems. From my home to his
    garage, it was 25 miles. He said, the exhaust gas should be pretty
    clear. Then he stopped further checking and asked me to return the car
    to the seller.

    The lady refused to take it back, of course. But she admitted that she
    had been smelling the odor since she bought the car 2 years ago. She
    was willing to return $300 to settle with me. Without any other
    choices, I accepted it. Now I am worried that this car will cost me
    lots of money to repair.

    My questions are (1) what is the smell, where is it coming from? (2)
    What caused excessive white smoke in the exhaust? I appreciate any
    comments.

    HWL
     
    bunny, Jan 8, 2006
    #1
  2. bunny

    N.E.Ohio Bob Guest

    Just a guess, but I think the head gasket would be a good bet. You
    might have $600 to$700 in getting all the things fixed, but then
    depending on rust, you might get three or four years out of it. At a
    grand a year, you would be about normal for car costs.
    If you want to get out now, let me know where you are. I know someone
    who is looking for that car. bob (N.E.Ohio)
     
    N.E.Ohio Bob, Jan 9, 2006
    #2
  3. bunny

    Elle Guest

    Do you hear any clicking noises while driving? That would be
    /a/ symptom of CV joints going bad.

    Brake pads are trivial and I wouldn't slam the seller for
    these. Find a good import car shop and have them use
    genuine Honda pads. Or buy the pads yourself at
    www.slhonda.com 's web site, take them to Pep Boys, ask how
    much to install, but with you providing the pads. All told,
    shouldn't cost more than $100.

    While Pep Boys or whoever does the pads, ask them to look at
    the CV boots, which fit over the joints. Ask if they see any
    tears. This takes just a minute or so per side to ascertain.
    Report back.

    I agree with what NE Ohio Bob said. That's not cool, selling
    a car possibly in need of a head gasket. OTOH, you did test
    drive it, and it overheated right away... Now you know a
    little more about serious warning signs, so this wasn't a
    complete waste. Every person I know has had one or more bad
    car buying experiences, but ones that end up making them
    better negotiators in the future.

    Try to always have a mechanic look the car over before
    purchasing, or at least put off purchases until all your
    questions and concerns are answered.

    About that coolant you put in: Use only OEM coolant or
    Havoline Dexcool. If you don't know exactly what's in it
    now, drain and refill.

    If it continues to overheat in the slightest, do not drive
    it. You'll do much more serious damage. Get the new head
    gasket (or whatever is the problem) fixed first.

    www.edmunds.com says a 1990 Civic 4wd wagon with 100k miles
    and a major mechanical problem goes for $1300 from a used
    car dealer. It goes for $2300 in clean, good running
    condition. Private party prices are much lower.

    You weren't too ripped off, money wise. Maybe
    inconvenience-wise is the main burden.

    How many miles are on this car? If no more than about 100k,
    and assuming you don't drive it when it's overheating, and
    assuming you repair the cause of overheating, it can serve
    you well for several years.
     
    Elle, Jan 9, 2006
    #3
  4. bunny

    jim beam Guest

    i. 1 & 2 are blown head gasket.
    ii. the brakes & drive shafts could be the mechanic just fishing for
    work since you seem to be a mechanical newbie. get a second opinion.
    iii. the 4wd civic wagon is quite a sought-after vehicle in some
    circles. if you don't want it, and rust is not a problem, you won't
    have much problem reselling it.
     
    jim beam, Jan 10, 2006
    #4
  5. bunny

    bunny Guest

    Thank you Bob, Elle and Jim for you comments.

    I live in Minnesota. Old cars in this state are normally rusted.
    There is no exception on my wagon. Its body has rust all around. Its
    mileage was 86K when I bought it. Nevertheless, the engine does not
    run as smoothly as my another 90' Civic DX does. That one has 200K
    mileage on it, and still running great.

    Last night, I took the wagon in for oil change and had 40 points
    inspection. The mechanic said the brake pads and tires should be good
    for another 9 months. CV joints' problem is very minor, should not
    worry about it until they get worsen. The mechanic did not look for
    the source of the unpleasant smell. He asked me to drive it for
    another month and observe if the smell persists.

    When I drove, I did not hear clicking sound. Only when I backed out
    from my garage to the street and had a 90 degree turn. Then I would
    hear clicking sounds under the hood near my steering wheel and in the
    back.

    I don't understand why a blown head gasket would cause over heat and
    white smoke in the exhaust and lower the gas mileage. Could you direct
    me to any website where I can get some technical information on that
    topic? I did observe that the coolant level in the radiator dropped.
    It is now slightly above the coolant fins. I tried to trace where it
    leaked but found nothing. Gas mileage is 24 mpg. It was 30 when I
    drove to Chicago a day after I bought it. It seems the engine is not
    that bad. Should I go ahead to replace the head gasket or wait until it
    gets worse?

    HWL
     
    bunny, Jan 13, 2006
    #5
  6. bunny

    jim beam Guest

    bunny wrote:
    because you're losing compression, losing coolant and overheating the motor.
    no! get the gasket replaced.
    replace it. driving in this condition can fry the engine and you'll end
    up having to replace the whole thing. not only is that VERY expensive,
    you could be on the freeway, seize the engine and find yourself very
    inconvenienced. replace and be safe.
     
    jim beam, Jan 13, 2006
    #6
  7. bunny

    Elle Guest

    I think this will invite further comment.

    But the head gasket is the bigger concern, for now.

    Despite what the mechanic said, I would not drive this car.
    If I had to, I would be very careful about doing so, and be
    cognizant that I was risking more serious damage to it by
    doing so. Don't rely on it to get you anywhere. I wouldn't
    exactly call the car safe to you, the driver, either, given
    the CV joint clicking. But see what others say on the CV
    joints.
    You understand that this car's engine has four cylinders
    into which gasoline and air are introduced, and then ignited
    with the spark plugs, right? And then the piston moves,
    right? And a crankshaft converts the up-and-down motion to
    rotary motion, ultimately turning your car's wheels, right?

    The part of the engine that holds the cylinders is called
    the "cylinder block." It has passages drilled in it so
    anti-freeze can circulate around the cylinders etc. and keep
    the cylinder block relatively cool. See the cylinder block
    at

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.
    jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Civic&catcgry2=1990&catcgry3=WGN+4
    WD+1600&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+BLOCK-OIL+PAN

    Sitting on top of the four holes (the cylinders) in the
    drawing above is a "cylinder head." See it at
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.
    jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Civic&catcgry2=1990&catcgry3=WGN+4
    WD+1600&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+HEAD

    Notice part #6 is the head gasket. If it tears, due to
    pressure and age, say, coolant can leak from the cooling
    passages in the block into the cylinders themselves. Imagine
    what this does to the usual combustion of fuel and air!

    First, combustion is going to be poor. The car is probably
    blowing a lot of unburnt fuel right out of the exhaust.
    Hence the poor fuel mileage you're getting, most likely.
    Second, that white smoke is from either the heating of the
    coolant during the combusion to a weird kind of steam, or
    some odd product of combusting gasoline, air, and some of
    the coolant. You most likely will also smell anti-freeze in
    the exhaust gases coming out the tailpipe, too.

    Anti-freeze may also get into the engine oil, since the
    cylinder walls are lubricated by the engine oil, and the
    residual oil falls ultimately into the oil pan. Add
    anti-freeze to the cylinder, and it's going to do some
    mixing with the oil lubricating system, too. Very bad...
    Very risky.
    Google for {"blown head gasket" symptoms}, and a number of
    sites will come up. They tend to say the same thing, meaning
    that, while this doesn't happen to all cars, it happens
    often enough that it's a topic often treated.
    With the white smoke and lowered coolant level, it certainly
    sounds like a blown head gasket, which means the leak is
    internal to the engine block. You won't be able to see the
    leak per se, because it's occuring within the engine's
    "guts." You can only see what comes out the cylinders
    (through the exhaust pipe, ultimately) and quite possibly
    also what gets into the anti-freeze (e.g. oil), or what gets
    into the oil.

    If you check the dipstick, you might notice anti-freeze in
    the oil. Which, as I noted, is also very serious.
    I agree that's good intuition, but you're really rolling the
    dice at this point. As long as you don't let this engine get
    overheated, or the oil and cooling systems don't beome too
    contaminated (fat chance?), then at only 86k miles, there's
    some serious hope that you'll get some serious years out of
    this car. With some work, it might one day soon run as well
    as your other Civic. There are a lot of little, fairly
    inexpensive items that might drastically improve its
    performance quickly, once the head gasket is fixed.
    I would take it to an independent import car shop,
    preferably Honda, have them double check that it's a head
    gasket. They'll call you to confirm it is, then have it
    done.

    If this car overheats, then the metal of the cylinder can
    warp, and the damage will be much more expensive to repair.

    Sounds like you're keeping coolant in the car with you and
    watching the levels closely. That's good, but again, you're
    really rolling the dice. The head gasket leak may not be bad
    now, but it will likely worsen.

    After the head gasket is done, we can talk about a full,
    basic tuneup (new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air
    filter, fuel filter, possibly new PCV valve, all genuine
    Honda parts, and then check the timing), then go from there
    to see how it's running.

    From reports here, new head gaskets are running $600 to
    $1000. The tuneup I mention above will run maybe $100 for
    parts, $100 for labor. Though if you're handy, you can do
    much of the tuneup yourself.
     
    Elle, Jan 13, 2006
    #7
  8. bunny

    bunny Guest

    Hi Elle and Jim,

    Thanks again for the valuable technicial information. Now I understand
    more about the relationship between cooling system and the engine. I
    will take your advice and fix the head gasket soon.

    Yesterday I testdrove a 1994 Accord LX. The car has little rust on the
    body, same areas that most Honda's cars had. Its mileage is 135K. The
    seller put new battery, new tires last year, replaced quite a few major
    components for the last 2 years, and replaced the muffler last week.
    He said he used genuine Honda parts. The car runs really great, did
    not feel any problem about the brakes and CV joints. It also has
    security system and remote engine start control installed. He is asking
    for $2500. It seems to be a good deal. Should I take it with full
    price?

    HWL
     
    bunny, Jan 14, 2006
    #8
  9. bunny

    Elle Guest

    I think you have some tough decisions to make--ones with
    which people from afar can't really help very well without
    seeing the cars up close.

    Figuring out which of the two cars will give you the most
    bang for the overall buck spent is very difficult at this
    point. I don't think the 94 Accord is going to be
    trouble-free, but it may very well be less trouble. Do you
    want to put up with the hassle of having the 90 wagon fixed
    up? Or are you ready to give up on the 90 wagon?

    How many miles does the 1990 wagon have on it? I can't
    remember if you said.

    Like I mentioned before, check www.edmunds.com 's used car,
    appraiser section. It does suggest the price for the Accord
    above is very good. If you continue to consider it, then you
    should insist the car be checked out by a mechanic (of your
    choosing, not the seller's) first. Then, if it appears to be
    in good condition, offer $2000 and see if he'll come down to
    at least $2250, say. Or, if you hate haggling, and it's in
    good repair, just pay the $2500.
     
    Elle, Jan 14, 2006
    #9
  10. bunny

    bunny Guest

    My 90 Wagon has 87K mileage on it. I do plan to fix it up and drive it
    until it dies, because I don't think I can sell it for $2000. My wife
    likes it and fits inside quite well because she is only 5' tall.

    My another 90 Civic DX has 200K mileage on it. I am considering
    getting that 94 Accord LX to replace it. I was thinking to offer $2100
    and see how the seller responds. Before I bought the 90 wagon, I had a
    93 Accord EX but my wife ran into a tree in a snowy morning and damaged
    it. It would cost $1600 to repair, so I trashed it. I had spent a lot
    of money to up keep it. It has been running great for the past 2 years
    without any problem. The mileage just reached 220K.

    I remember I spent lots of money to keep both cars running when their
    mileages reached 160K. I think that 94 Accord LX would have similar
    problems at that mileage. So I will see how it goes tomorrow when I
    deal with the seller.

    HWL
     
    bunny, Jan 16, 2006
    #10
  11. bunny

    bunny Guest

    Actually both the seller and I take our cars to the same moon-lighting
    mechanic for repair. It is the mechanic who refered me to the seller.
    The mechanic suggested me to test drive it and if I like it then get
    it. He did not ask me to negotiate. But when I told him on the phone
    about the 90 wagon, he said the car did not worth $2K because some
    repairs would be expected. Well, I made a wrong judgement and did not
    get a good price on the wagon.

    HWL
     
    bunny, Jan 16, 2006
    #11
  12. My daughter's '93 Accord LX has given good service in the 4 1/2 years we've
    had it (has it really been that long?) It needed the timing belt, since it
    apparently had the original at 163K miles. A pair of drive axles, a
    radiator, an igniter and a coil, a window regulator. A pair of front brake
    discs because I didn't watch the brakes closely enough. Oh - an oversize
    drain plug. I think that's all it took to get it through about 50K miles. It
    only stranded her once (the igniter) and threatened to strand her once more
    (the coil.) I wish my old Volvo had aged that gracefully.

    Personal note to Elle - thanks for the advice about the coil. She made it to
    San Diego and back on their belated honeymoon without a hiccup!

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jan 16, 2006
    #12
  13. bunny

    Elle Guest

     
    Elle, Jan 16, 2006
    #13
  14. bunny

    Elle Guest

    hiccup!

    Michael Pardee, thank you, but <head in hands> are you now
    revealing you sent your daughter on her honeymoon with a
    non-OEM ignition coil?? Oh m'goodness...

    I'm betting the brother had something to do with this.
    Rascals all...
     
    Elle, Jan 16, 2006
    #14
  15. Innocent, I swear! The coil I got from alleurasianautoparts had the very
    same markings as the one I removed... the only visible difference was the
    color of the HT tower (what's with the lime green, anyway?)

    Although the brother might have tittered just a little bit at his sister's
    anguish. Nah - he might have had to go rescue them.

    Sayyy... you don't suppose they found some novel use for the old coil, do
    you? 8^O
    I don't want to know.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jan 16, 2006
    #15
  16. bunny

    Elle Guest

    alleurasianautoparts had the very
    anyway?)

    Hm, interesting site. They say the Bosch coil is OEM, and do
    make a distinction between it and an aftermarket coil they
    also sell. (I'm looking at the ones for a 91 Honda.)

    Dunno about the colors.
    Ha ha, honeymoon jokes... :)

    Congratulations to you and your family on what I hope looks
    to be a great marriage for your daughter and her new
    husband. If they now know the virtues of older Hondas
    (thanks to ol' dad and maybe aforementioned brother), then
    they've certainly started down a good path.
     
    Elle, Jan 16, 2006
    #16
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