Problem with shift lock and brakes lights in '95 Civic Ex

Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone could help me. Last winter, I couldn't get
my car out of park and into drive after I started the car and pressed
the brake pedal. I discovered the shift lock release hole and put my
key in it and discovered that it is basically is a manual override for
the shift lock. At first, the brake lights still worked when the
shifter was locked. Over the past year, the shifter has gotten locked
off and on, inconsistently, sometimes for a week, several days, or for
one day, sometimes not at all for months at a time...brake lights used
to work, but as of September, have quit working when when the shifter
is locked. Last night, the brake lights worked for a split second, but
not anymore since then. I need some help asap, I don't want a ticket
or get rear ended, and I must drive my car, no other option. Is the
brake light switch bad? Is it a fuse? Like I said, when the shifter
unlocks itself, the brake lights still work. I know its not a bulb or
anything like that. Need help fast! Thanks in advance!!

mgan9311

 

It sounds like something is wrong with the wiring. Do you have a local
mechanic that you could stop by? If so I would stop and see what they
can do. Good luck!

 

Is the P light on? If not it won't release the shift lock. This is usually
caused by a bad or maladjusted shift position switch on the transmission or
possibly too much play in the shift cable. Rattle the gearshift around and
see if the P light comes on.....

 

I had almost the exact same problem with a 2003 Accord, except my break
lights were coming on all by themselves, whenever they felt like it. Like
an hour after I went to bed! Along with erratic ability to shift out of
PARK. Very frustrating and dangerous situation.

The brake light switch behind (actually in front of) the pedal controls both
functions, and replacing it returned all to normal. It's cheap($11.00) and
it's an easy DIY job. If it works, you have saved yourself some high lablor
charges to diagnose the problem at your dealer. If it doesn't, you were
going to be in for a serious bill anyway


Bob

 

The P light....you mean the parking light on the gear shift?
No....none of the lights on the gear shift console work and haven't
worked for some time now, they only work on the dash (its an automatic,
btw). I can't rattle it, I don't have any play with it being an
automatic.

 

Bob,

That sounds like my problem. Do you think its worth it to just replace
the switch without testing the continunity of it? Also, can you give
me directions for DIY? I take it that its really simple...I am
thinking less than 10 minutes????

Mgan9311

 

If you have the meter, then make the test. But don't bank on the
results. The problem with these switches is the intermitent nature of how
they go bad. That's why sometimes you can shift out of Park and sometimes
you can't. I tested mine and it came out as OK. But the problem persisted
and I was just about to schedule an appointment with the dealer when I
decided to drop in to the parts department and check on the price of the
switch. I was surpised to hear them quote only $11.00. Then when I told
them I bought the car there, I got a discount that brought it down to $8.00
and change.

Facing a car rental fee of $30.00, and I figured at least $60-$80 in
labor just to diagnose the problem, I decided to spend the $8.00 on the
switch and was glad I did. I can't speak to the procedure for your Civic,
but it can't be much more complicated than the setup on my Accord. Unplug
the wire harness from the switch. Unscrew the plastic lock nut. Use a
wrench to turn the switch about 1/2 rotation and it slides right out of the
holder. Reverse to install the new one. 10 minutes, or less.


Bob

 

With prices like those, I agree it is better to replace it blindly.

I have had success testing switches for intermittent tendencies using a
multimeter. The trick is to carefully measure either the resistance or the
voltage drop (if the current is steady when closed) across the contacts from
one operation to the next. My personal standard is a 2:1 spread of voltage
or resistance with several cycles, but intermittent switches usually get
considerably wilder than that... more like 5:1 and with a lot of variation
within that range.

Mike

 

Hey All,

Thank you all so much for you help on this matter! I decided to just
go and buy the switch without testing it. With intermittent
results....it isn't worth it to me to test it when you can't be sure.
I haven't put it in yet, but will do so this weekend. As it
figures....before I got to the auto parts store last night it was still
locked and the brake lights were off and on, when I left the auto parts
store it wasn't locked anymore and the lights worked, and still work
today! Ha! Go figure! Anyways, regardless, I am changing the switch
this weekend and will provide an update so others can use this board
for information when they have this problem!!!

P.S.
Cost = $11.48 w/o tax here in Georgia at Advance Auto Parts

Mgan9311