Psychic Wednesday???

That's what I'd call livin' close to the edge!

If you have anything that breaks off and needs a weld-like repair with
real strength properties, try Devcon titanium putty.

When I freshend the engine in my Studebaker P/U ten years ago, the pan
was like Swiss cheese. I spent an evening cleaning it out, coated the
entire inside with a skim coat of Devcon and it still is holding up ten
years later.

I don't know what you mean by a "left hand" drill. If one drills a bolt
out, a conventional drill is used. I got my experience years ago in
aircraft manufacturing having had to drill out lots of rivets/fasteners.
So much so, I don't like doing anymore!

JT

 

Tool stores sometimes carry drills (the part that contacts the work, as
opposed to the motor piece) that turn CCW in use instead of CW. Example at
http://tinyurl.com/2zqy4y They are often used to drill pilot holes for
easy-outs, but sometimes just the drag and occasional grab will unscrew
bolts... say those who have used them.

Mike

 

drill BITS is the word you're looking for.
I've used RH bits before to drill out broken bolts and had the bit turn the
piece out the back side of the work.

As far as easyouts go,the newer sort that are short and have a shoulder are
supposed to work the best.I never had much luck with the standard kind of
easyout.It seems like screwing them in expands the bolt around the hole you
just drilled,and makes it harder to turn out.

 

Now, my old wood shop teacher was adamant that "bits" were the wood boring
devices used with a brace; they have a flat face, centering point and
cutting points at the ends of the face. What we are talking about, he
insisted, are "twist drills" and are used with a "drill motor." Of
course, everybody knows them as drill bits, but I just know he's lurking
with a ruler to rap my knuckles if I betray his teaching.

I also have had very limited success with easyouts. The grip never seems to
match the tightness of the bolt. I've seen the newer type you describe but
haven't tried one.

Mike

 

The same vernacular was used in my early days of aerospace
manufacturing. The best drill "motors" were pnuematic as they had very
good throttling control which is need when drilling out rivet heads to
drive the rest through the work. Of course, the desired result is to
install rivets to spec correctly the first time...

This project will be going to the machine shop Monday morning for
removal of the crank bolt. Upon teardown today, all of the bearings
appeard perfect as did the crank shaft and I'm going to see how the
cylinders clean up.

JT

 

I pulled the pistons today complete with rods. I'll take a pix in the
morning and send 'em to you but it sure looks like factory to me.

Interesting note. All of the top rings were stuck which is not to be
unexpected since this thing say with the head off of it for over ten
years. It seems that the top compression rings are "thinner" than the
second ring. IOW, the second ring will not fit into the top groove. I
find this very strange. Have you heard of such?

JT

 

Just to bring y'all up to date, Tegger and I did some off line
conversing and it appears that 1982/83 1300 engines did have two
different compression ring thickness as follows: Top ring - 1mm and 2nd
ring - 1.2mm.

Called Majestic and while they are available, they are on back order so
who knows how long. Fortunately, found a set on eBay that specified the
above dimensions and snagged 'em for $50 including shipping and insurance.

Needless to say, my big overhaul project scheduled for last Saturday got
pushed back but as soon as the rings come in, I'll hopefully be back on
(some sort of) schedule.

The scheme is to use the pistons/rods out of the '83 which is a five
speed with 110K and put them into the $200 '82 bare bones Civic wonder
that has nearly zero compression on #1 and sucks up about a quart of oil
per 200 miles. One guy whined that I killed all his mosquitoes and I
just replied, "No Charge!"

The second part is to rehab the original FE engine with new pistons,
rings and bearings and eventually reinstall it into that car. Then the
'81 engine can be resealed and held as a spare on standby should the
worst happen...

JT

(Who refuses to enter the 21st century regarding transportation...)

 

Dropped the shaft off at the machine shop and by the time I got home,
there was a message that the bolt was removed.

Turned out, he simply used a little "easy out lube" and it spun right
out. No charge to boot.

These guys came highly recommended for work on smaller engines from the
folks at my regular machine shop that does traditional/vintage engine work.

I'll probably take the bare block over to have 'em look at it as I think
it will clean up fine with honing.

Life is good...

JT

 

"Easy out lube"? Sounds naughty. Any details on this potion?

 

K-Y U wanna no???

I'll have more info tomorrow as I'll be picking it up and having my
freshly honed cylinders inspected at the same time.

I feel like a kid shooting marbles on an uneven slope!

JT