Question about Spark Plugs' colour

I did not check but with the engine at WOT there will be maximum ring
blowby and vacuum would be 0-2" Hg (i.e. PCV valve flow almost zero)
so I expect the crankcase pressure to be slightly positive - no way
negative.

Bye,
Leon

 

Well, why don't you check it under "real world conditions" i.e. load, and
report back.

 

This is wrong - the flow of almost zero. You don't need a manifold vacuum
to allow PCV valve flow - only a relative pressure drop across the valve.

In that case yes but remember there are restrictions built in to the pipes
in some PCV systems.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

 

Zebra, given the age of your car (with its original PCV valve), I'd say the cost
of a PCV valve is cheap enough to warrant replacing it. You might be surprised
at the improvement in fuel mileage.

It should be no more than $25 for an OEM valve from your dealer. It's less
online. Try www.slhonda.com

I read the other day that the simple check for operation of the valve (start
car; let idle; pinch shut the hose to the PCV valve; wait 30 seconds or so; if
you hear a click, it's definitly "working") does not confirm optimal operation
of the valve.

Makes sense. The valve has a spring that will wear, though not necessarily fail
completely.

Re the oil leak: I'd say, based only on working on my 91 Civic 155k miles =
approx. 258k km that a little bit of oil is nothing to sweat, but at some point
certain seals will need replacement. Maybe try to track down from where the leak
is coming.

I'm adamant about a dry garage floor, even for my old Civic, and I get it.