Hello-- I noticed my passenger-side outer boot (CV boot) has split, exposing and flinging much of the previously contained grease. Two paths I can take: 1) Replace the boot and clean/repack the CV joint B) Go buy a reman axle assembly, and install it. I should probably (and will) treat the other side equally as well. I am pseudo-mechanical (just replaced the master cylinder and bled the brake lines), plus I have plenty of tools (hand/air). How awkward a job is it to replace both the right/left axle assemblies? How many times do you think I'd cuss up a storm, and cry out, "$150 labor for each axle woulda been a #$%^& bargain!!!" Any input/pointers/experiences with such a job? Oh, and just in case, here's her vitals: 1991 Prelude 2.0Si, B20A5 5sp A/C 114K Thanks in advance for any helpful comments.
id go this route, with a split boot kit. put off the hassle until the joint starts actually making noise, then do the axles
It depends how long the boot has been split and how much dirt got in, which might cause accelerated future wear. Many of the remanufactured axles are junk: they basically weld in some fresh metal and regrind to "specs." so you can imagine how long they last. I've never used them but www.raxles.com puts on new C/V joints, not regrinds - if anybody has comments on this outfit, good or bad, please chime in. I once did a clean and reboot on a VW years ago and it was no fun - the aftermarket boot split within a year and I had to do it all again.<gr-r-r-r-> The replacement axle saves the messy, finicky part of the job: making sure you keep the balls in the right order so they go back to identical positions in the races... clinical cleanliness can be difficult when all the parts are filthy. The worst part of the job is probably getting the lower ball joint off the lower arm - Honda's tool (reversed scissors type jaw) is probably best for that but I haven't even checked the price on it and I'm not sure which aftermarket ones would fit without buggering the balljoint boot. I used a 5-ton OTC puller (claw type) and it was awful - the balljoint stud started to bend and the end of the stud mushroomed even with a nut on it. I eventually applied a bit of heat with a propane torch (protect the rubber boot with a bit of metal) to the arm around the stud and then one more go at the puller bolt and it let go. One tip here: muffle your ears or they'll be ringing for a coupla days. Another tip: while the lower arm is off the ball joint is a good time to add some fresh grease to the ball joint - I use a grease gun with a needle adapter and you can shove the needle up past the neck of the boot easily. You might also want to replace the differential side seals while the axles are out - no press is needed... just tap to get it started in the groove and then press with your fingers. Make a note of the depth of the old one before removing. If you go replacement axle, make sure the new outer joint casing has the reluctor teeth for the ABS and that they align identically with the old joint. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
I just got finished replacing the driveshafts on my daughter's 91 Civic. Yes, getting that balljoint to let go is a bitch. I spent $45 on a puller from UAP that I had to back up with a clamp to keep it's jaws closed on the arm. They finally let go with a crack like a pistol shot. Didn't mushroom or bend the end of the balljoint studs though. I also had to go out and buy a 3/4 inch drive 1 1/4 socket to get the spindle nuts off. I had a 1/2 inch drive socket but it just wasn't up to the job, and even my 3/4 inch impact wrench didn't cut it. My 3/4 inch tommybar now has a kink in one end after being extended with a 2 foot length of pipe to get that damn nut undone!
If the boot has only recently torn and not much dirt has gotten into the joint, then this is not a bad option. Just keep in mind that it is more work than just replacing the whole axle. If the joint is making noise when you turn, this is the way to go. Less work and mess than trying to clean and repack an old joint that may be worn. Unless the other axle also has torn boots, there is no need to do this. I've never done this on a Honda, but I have done multiple chrysler products. It is not very difficult. You need to loosen the large nut holding the axle in place. Then you need to remove enough pieces to get the shaft out of the knuckle. This usually means removing the brake caliper, removing the tie rod, and at least one ball joint. Then you can just pull the shaft out.
Kinda weird, I'm not the most experienced Honda guy, but its funny that I have now read 3 stories on people that have a helluva time getting the spindle nut off. I have a 98 civic, and my girlfriend has an 87 prelude, and both of these were a breeze to get off the spindle nut, as well as pop the lower ball joint. In both cases for the ball joint, I used a pickle fork (borrowed from the local parts store), and just used it carefully so as not to damage the rubber boot. Usually the one designed for tie rods works best on hondas. Every time I have done it, it popped off without a problem, but I have read 3 separate stories from experienced DIYourselfers, and it just doesn't make any sense. I guess they are torqued to a really high rate (180 ftlbs on my civic) , but some advice I received from my mechanic uncle, he said to never! use impact of the spindle nut, especially to put it back on, as this may pit your bearings, and cause nightmares (ie all the stories I've been hearing lately).
I've never had the nerve to use one of those. For one thing I've never been sure of the right size. Which one is that? The smallest? I never use an impact wrench to tighten anything down. I'll put a nut on and bring it to the point where the clutches start to hammer, then I go get a torque wrench.
Kinda weird, I'm not the most experienced Honda guy, but its funny that I have now read 3 stories on people that have a helluva time getting the spindle nut off. I have a 98 civic, and my girlfriend has an 87 prelude, and both of these were a breeze to get off the spindle nut, as well as pop the lower ball joint. In both cases for the ball joint, I used a pickle fork (borrowed from the local parts store), and just used it carefully so as not to damage the rubber boot. Usually the one designed for tie rods works best on hondas. Every time I have done it, it popped off without a problem, but I have read 3 separate stories from experienced DIYourselfers, and it just doesn't make any sense. I guess they are torqued to a really high rate (180 ftlbs on my civic) , but some advice I received from my mechanic uncle, he said to never! use impact of the spindle nut, especially to put it back on, as this may pit your bearings, and cause nightmares (ie all the stories I've been hearing lately).
I'd think there must be one of the tool makers which has a tool which is a knock-off of the Honda 07MAC-SL00200. I've seen similar but you'd want to be sure it fits the balljoint just right - here's one here http://www.handsontools.com/store/show_product/?product_id=3279 but it doesn't quite look up to the job?? Maybe this one'd be better - made by OTC: http://tinyurl.com/5z4nu It's been a while now since I did our '90 Civic but I didn't have any trouble with the axle nut using my wimpy 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar. You did unstake the nut first - and throw some penetrating oil on? Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
I'm not sure how you use a pickle fork "carefully". Don't you have to lever against the ball joint, therefore squeezing the rubber boot between the two? I think the degree of difficulty with separating the ball-joint from the lower arm varies a lot according to the weather where you live: in the frost belt corrosion plays a big part - locks it almost solid. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
i did it without damaging the the boot. whether i incurred other damage, i guess remains to be seen, but they popped out with no real degree of difficulty. As far as my location, I doubt you could get much more extreme as far as salt and temperature. I'm in Winnipeg, (or Winterpeg.... as many affectionately call it...) t
Unstake yes. Penetrating oil no, but there was no sign of corrosion, and after the first half turn the nut came off without a wrench, just my fingers
me?? I've done two Accords recemtly, a 91 and 98. It's really pretty easy. The spindle came off using a 1/2 drive 18" breaker bar. I just stand on it and bounce up and down on it. Make sure to unstake the nut first. I purchased a ball joint tool similiar to the two you mention. I did have to grind the inside of the fork part though to fit. The trick I found is to unload the ball joint by puttung a scissors jack under the wheel hub and jack it up a few inches. Then I tighten up the ball joint tool and rap the lower arm near the ball joint and they pop right out. It also helps to grind a screw driver as shown in the Honda shop manual to pry the shaft out of the tranny.
yes it is the smallest one there, but even a larger one will work, it just has a greater chance of wrecking the rubber boot on the ball joint. t
I think I'm familiar with that maneuver: my bionic impact driver - add bionic devices as necessary. Thanks. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
