Radiator replacement help on '95 Accord

Discussion in 'Accord' started by PJ, May 5, 2004.

  1. PJ

    PJ Guest

    Hello,

    Does anyone have any tips/experiences changing out a radiator on a '95
    Accord auto 4cyl EX? I was wondering if it's a job I should leave to the
    professionals or do myself. Thanks for any info!!!
     
    PJ, May 5, 2004
    #1
  2. PJ

    Chip Stein Guest

    take the hoses off, disconnect the fan wires, pull the top brackets
    and pull the assembly out. leave the fans attached to the radiator,
    it's the easiest way. the lower hose can be a pain, so pull it off at
    the engine. swap everything over out of the car and re-assemble.
    Chip
     
    Chip Stein, May 6, 2004
    #2
  3. PJ

    Nick Guest

    I just had done this on my father's 95 Accord. Here's a little
    advice..... You can take off the A/C fan but the other fan will need
    to stay on otherwise there won't be enough clearance between the fan
    and the A/C line (which I think is a design flaw). This makes taking
    the bottom hose and the 2 transmission lines a real pain as you can't
    get to them from over the hood of the car, and on the bottom, there is
    the stabilizer bar which you only have about 2 inches between the bar
    and the radiator. Expect to work on it for about 3-4 hrs depending on
    how long it will take you to get the transmission clamps off (my
    opinion the hardest part of the job).

    Hope this helps.
    Nick
     
    Nick, May 6, 2004
    #3
  4. It's tough on the back. I've done a radiator twice, once on a 94 Civic,
    once on an 87 Accord. I spent hours leaning over the car, and using some
    serious muscle to get things in and out.
    Both times the thing I had the hardest time with was installing the hoses.
    They just wouldn't go on! I found out on the first one that you NEED to wet
    the hoses. Just a little water is enough lubrication to get them onto the
    fittings.
    Although on my Accord, getting my hands into a position to apply enough
    force to attach the lower hose to the block still took a LONG time.
    Oh yeah, and the block drain bolt on my Accord was a bitch to get at.
    Fortunately there wasn't a drain bolt on the block of my Civic...at least
    not one where the manual said it was, or anywhere I looked! :)

    As for if you should do it yourself, or let the pros do it, that totally
    depends on how skilled you are. I mean seriously, we don't even know if you
    can change your oil.
    I'd rate a radiator swap as fairly simple, although pretty time consuming.
    it's also worth noting that I sheered the head of the bolt for the
    thermostat housing on my Accord and I had to drill out the bolt. That was
    also a pain in the ass.
     
    Peter Doherty, May 6, 2004
    #4
  5. I see you've got some good suggestions - the thing you have to figure is
    how much the A/C lines and other clutter impede removal and replacement of
    the radiator and hose and whether you can get the radiator out with the fan
    shrouds and bottom hose attached.

    I'd suggest you replace both the top and bottom hose at the same time -
    when I took my old radiator out ('92 Integra) with the bottom hose
    attached, I had to bend the hose around obstructions and I could feel the
    internal webbing ripping as I bent it.

    Tip: jam some sheets of cardboard, cut appropriately, against the fins when
    installing the new radiator to avoid gouging the nice new fins.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, May 7, 2004
    #5
  6. PJ

    Nick Guest

    Also get 2 Sharpie markers to plug both transmission lines to avoid a
    big loss of tranny fluid.

    Nick
     
    Nick, May 7, 2004
    #6
  7. PJ

    NJSS Guest

    I've done a radiator replacement on a '92 EX A/T. It is pretty simple. If you
    have an AT, you'll lose a little AT fluid, be sure to use the right type.

    The biggest problem, on the '92 at least, is making sure that they lower
    radiator house, which is very long and curved does not rub against the battery
    bracket. I had to remove the radiator three months after replacing it in order
    to replace the lower hose after it ruptured from rubbing against the battery
    bracket.

    I got my radiator at Advance Auto Parts. It cost, for the AT, last summer US
    $93. I printed out their web special and they honored it at a local store here
    in Northern VA.
    JIMBO
     
    NJSS, May 11, 2004
    #7
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