Repeatedly Running On A Low Tank?

The oil injested would be from the surface of the oiled media. The
VAST majority of the captured dirt settles in the "sump". The injested
oil is basically "vapour" - and as I stated is almost unmeasurable -
insignificant. Particals of dirt would be such a low fraction of that
extremely small amount that it would be barely a blip on the radar.

 

Not sure which car he's talking about here, but the Tercel was known
to run better/give better gas mileage on premium IN SOME CASES.
Driven consistantly hard there was no advantage. But the little
buggers were "cokers" if babied, and the carbon buildup in the cyls of
a lightly driven Tercel DID increase the octane requirement
significantly.

We used to routinely decarbonise tercels we knew were not driven hard
at each major service (spray combustion chamber cleaner in the intake)
and we used BG Supercharge in the gas on every major service as well.
BG44K was reserved for the real bad ones. Some came in pinging on
hightest, and left running fine on regular.
Pinging really kills the fuel mileage, as well as power (and
eventually the engine)

 

I'm puzzled about one thing that i used to experience sort of related to
this, so I'll pose it here: In the late 80's/early 90's, I lived in
Colorado - periodic emissions inspections were required. I had an '86
MPFI turbocharged Subaru station wagon at the time. On two occasions,
it failed the emissions isnpection - and both times the technician asked
if the air filter had been changed recently. On those two occasions,
the answer was 'no'. I changed the filter both times, and it passed the
re-test with flying colors. After that, I made sure to replace the
filter just before taking it for inspection if it had not been changed
recently, and it always passed with no problem.

So my question is: If the computer can compensate for the slightly
clogged filter for normal driving, why can't it do so for emissions
measurements (idling situation)?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Not inherently. Fiber diameter is fiber diameter. Particle size
implies the space between the fibers. But there would be a connection
between small fiber size and getting minimum filtered particle size down
while at the same time *not* causing undue restriction levels, IOW a
very low particle size-restriction product (product as in multiplication).

If filtered particle size is decreased but fiber size remains the same,
restriction levels goes up - a tradeoff. So smaller fiber size relaxes
that tradeoff and gives you a competitive advantage.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

I sure do. I used to work in farming and in industrial environments when
I was in high school and college, and oil bath air filters were in use a
lot on the diesel motors used in a lot of the equipment.

One thing I will say: a poor design for the filter was a friggin' MESS!

There are still some on the market for older diesel engines. Wix still
makes them and sells them through CarQuest, or they did 6 years ago.

 

Nice to see someone who knows what he's talking about.
IIRC, my '83 had a similar system.

 

OK - thanks.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Got it - thanks.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

LOL! He don't know me very well, do he?

"Baby" my cars? Not likely. I found the car actually did very well at
80-85 MPH, but decided saving a few $$$ in gas wasn't worth paying for it
for 6 years in insurance premiums.

I live in an area where most of my driving is done >=45 MPH, and I take
full advantage of that. I also know where most of the cops hang out at
any given time of day, and take advantage of *that*, too.

But, I don't pound the snot out of my cars, either. The Tercel was
purchased because I needed a car to drive so I could get my aging '85
Corolla GTS off the road so I could do some work on it. Unfortunately,
2.5 years after buying the Tercel an '88 Supra came up for sale for $600,
and I sold the Tercel to buy the Supra, and it's been taking up the bulk
of my 'repair' money. It rarely goes over 55 MPH, maybe a few runs on the
highway here and there (I did get stopped the first week I put it on the
road for the summer in '06 at 88 MPH, but when the officer saw the
registration was 4 days old he wrote me up for 72 and said Keep the speed
down!)

In the meantime I've had a Celica GTS (85 in good condition) and a '90
240 SX to keep me 'happy'.

Hmmm...you work for a Toyota dealer? We were using BG to clean the
sludged Camry/Sienna engines, but the BG44K I hadn't heard of until it
was advertised on XM radio recently. Is it any good?

If I have some fuel system problems I use Techron. Been using it for
years, since it first came out.

 

Basically because a clogged filter is a clogged filter, and if the engine
isn't getting enough air it's going to run a little richer than it
should. Those cars had a somewhat rudimentary ECM and could lean the car
out under normal circumstances, but they sure didn't work as well as ECMs
today do. You can only compensate for so much.

I own an '89 GL Coupe, but I went through the car when I bought it and
did all the maintenance on it before I put it on the road. It passed the
emission test with flying colors with only one of the two factory cats
installed!

 

Techron, Sea Foam, Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF - all work well.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

I use Techron for fuel system problems, Sea Foam for tranny problems
(works wonders in Suby AWD trannies...) but only did the ATF trick once on
a Chrysler engine that was making horrendous noises, but managed to put
10,000 miles on that one, too.

I used to mix MMO with Castrol GTX in my cars; for a 1 gallon car like the
GTS I would put in 3.5 QTS of Castrol GTX and 1/2 QT of MMO. I believe it
makes starting easier, although once the engine's been run it all mixes
together, I guess. Does the MMO separate out again? I don't think so...

I also put it in the tank on the older cars occasionally.

 

Used to be Toyota service manager - for 10 years of my 25 years as an
auto mechanic.

The 44K is EXCELLENT stuff

All work well for different problems. The 44k, in my experience, is
matched only (possibly) by Techron for removing engine (combustion
chamber) deposits. The sea foam is excellent for cleaning the fuel
system, and I hear it is pretty good on engine deposits as well. Sea
Foam and MMO are both good for crankcase deposits.

Techron and SeaFoam were not readily available up here when I was
"actively" involved. 44K was. MMO availability has always been spotty
up here - I buy mine in the states any time I go down (for less than
half what we pay for it up here WHEN we can get it.

 

Never used any of that stuff. Although I did use some Kerosene once
to free up a stuck valve on a Corvar flat six. Poured it down the
carb on the side with the stuck valve. Worked great too. ATF
probably would have work just as well.

Jack

 

Whereabouts? I'm on the East Coast.

I thought there might have been some professionalism there.

I take it you're in the Camry group. We're having a discussion in Toyota
about dealerships 'double dipping' using AllData when it comes to
replacing timing belts and water pumps. I've seen Toyota dealers quote ~3
hours to replace the belt, and then again to replace the water pump, even
though they're doing both operations at the same time!

Any insight?

 

which reinforces the point i made but which our friend snipped - the
engine computer doesn't have a knock sensor to look at, so it can't take
proper advantage of high octane by adjusting its ignition timing strategy.

 

the effect on air flow at idle, even for an ancient clogged filter, is
absolutely minimal. the only explanation i can think of could be that
subaru, for some odd reason, don't go closed loop with the oxygen sensor
at idle, but revert to some preset value instead. absolutely bizarre.

 

reading comprehension is evidently not your strongest skill. nor is
putting false words in the mouth of someone else.

 

Right. First part I replaced on the car. Back side of the block under the
intake runners:

http://www2.partstrain.com/store/images/prodimage/images/WORLDPAC/W01331604175OES.JPG

TWO-DIGIT CODE 52 KNOCK SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN KNOCK SENSOR
SIGNAL

--KNOCK SENSOR/CIRCUIT


Keep showing how dumb you are. That's OK.

 

they use progressively dense layers sandwiched together. the coarse
layers filter the larger particles, and so on. i assume this helps
retain air flow rate better as the filter does its job. assuming the
filter media is installed the correct way around of course!