Replacing brake master cylinder on 1995 Accord

I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
wallet?

-Zilla

 

no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:

1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on the
cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.

2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash with
water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
water into an open brake reservoir!

as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding a
new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
all the way to the floor to expel all the air.

 

Ok thanks. I plan to drape plastic over the left-front fender, just to
protect
against spillage. Also the manual mentions bleeding the ABS modulator.
Is that necessary?

 

theoretically, yes. but reality is, especially if you bleed at the m/c
first, you can get away without it. [you didn't pay for this advice, so
use it at your own risk!]

 

You don't need a kit at all, provided you bench bleed first. Do not install
the new MC "dry".

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/index.html

 

but if you install "wet", you can get fluid all over the place - your
workbench, not just your car. installing dry, then bleeding at the line
connections ensures that all bleeding is controlled, and minimizes air
that has to be bled through the rest of the system, particularly
relevant for abs.

indeed, i've replaced cylinders like this and not had to do the rest of
the system at all. not standard practice of course, but it is possible
if the brake lines don't empty, and they won't if the caliper bleeds
aren't opened. try it - you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

Leaks are no problem.

Stuff a couple of golf tees in the holes as you transport the new MC if you
have nothing else to plug them with. Even if the holes are left wide open,
drips are slow and very easily compensated for.

And even if you should get some brake fluid on the paint, it's not like
when they cut off the leg of that critter in the movie "Alien". Brake fluid
takes at least several minutes to damage paint.

 

installing dry, then bleeding at the line connections is exactly the
same as bleeding on the bench as far as the fluid is concerned. only
it's much more controlled. and you don't lose [use] as much fluid
overall. and there's no worries about any leakage when you're installing.

i've done both, and frankly, bleeding on the bench is a complete waste
of time i'll never bother with ever again.

 

-----------------------

Keep some rags in a bucket of warm water to constantly wipe your hands
with and lay damp towels around the area so spills get absorbed, rather
than running down behind somewhere.

'Curly'

 

So when you say "especially if you bleed at the m/c
first" you imply bench-bleeding?

Where is the bleeder valve for the ABS modulator, or is it obvious?
My Hanes manual does not show it.

 

no, do it with the m/c /in/ the car - bleed at the brake line screws.
you'll find that once fitted, if you fill the reservoir and simply wait,
most of the time, the m/c will bleed itself. once the bubbles stop
coming out of the line screws, then get your assistant to press down on
the pedal to ensure all air is expelled, then hold while you tighten.

and make sure you use a proper flare nut wrench. using a standard open
end wrench is a great way to ruin the hex flats and make life very
difficult for yourself.

you need to take the haynes manual, separate all the pages and roll each
one into a crumpled ball, collect into a heap, douse with gasoline, then
apply a source of ignition. after you've finished dancing on the ashes,
go to helminc.com and buy the proper honda workshop manual. it costs
more, but it helps you with questions just like this by actually
answering them. the best tool you'll ever buy for that vehicle.

 

I see, that was #1 of your orig response. I planned to use a flare nut
wrench.

....been ordered, waiting for it in the mail. In the meantime I ask questions
and hope for answers.

 

Just my opinion, and not to throw out the baby with the
bathwater (read: Jim Beam's opinion on this with his other
occasionally helpful suggestions, when he's feeling like
being constructive, like all of us) but i think buying a
Helm manual is overrated for your 95 Accord and many 90s
Civics. So much information is freely available on the net
for Hondas this vintage. E.g. see the bulk of the FS manual
for your 95 Accord at
http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html. Also,
Autozone has (for free) much info (specific to maintaining
and repairing the 95 Accord, and much from the FS manual
again) at its site.

Plus, I disagree with a number of people here that Haynes is
so awful. From what I have seen, I do prefer Chilton's (fact
is it reproduces much verbatim from the FS manual), and I
use mine often, but the Haynes will probably be of some
help.

 

You know, if you think about it, installing dry on the car and then bleeding
it with the "bench-bleeding" fittings and hoses that come with the new M/C
kit IS bench-bleeding it.

....so that's what I did, and worked like a champ. As Jim says, no mess.
I bought a self-bleeding kit but ended up NOT opening/using it since my
10-yr old and wife were glad to help.

Total cost:
- M/C = $40
- Dot 3 fluid (2x12oz) = 4
- Bleeder rubber hose = 1

So for <$50 and 4 hrs of getting the parts and actually doing the work,
I have a partly new brake system! It was my first time to do it.

...and my old back hurts!

 

I made plugs for my self about 25 years ago. I used an old
brake tube and an old brake hose from a Datsun(?) or
Toyota(?). I cut the fittings off the brake hoses, dug
the remaining rubber out of the fittings and then brazed
(bronze rod) the hole closed. I now had a female plug to
put on the end of a disconnected brake tube, to prevent
the fluid from all siphoning out. For a set of _male_ plugs,
I cut the brake tube flush with the male nut, and brazed
it closed. I snug the plugs down with a pair of wrenches.

These bunch of male nuts and female nuts come in
very handy when disconnecting the brake system.

A person could probably do the same thing with a propane
torch, some plumbers solder and flux. Steel wool etc. the
metal bright and shiny, apply flux and solder. Don't cut the
tube flush... leave some sticking out and solder the tube
closed.

 

The m/c kit I bought from Autozone came with all sorts of plugs and hoses
I needed.