Replacing Oil Pan Gasket on 98 Honda Accord EX VTec 4Cyl

Discussion in 'Accord' started by techjohnny, Jan 25, 2008.

  1. techjohnny

    techjohnny Guest

    Hello, Group:

    When you replace the oil pan gasket for this make/model, do I need to
    also replace the oil pan? I have some leaking from the gasket area of
    the pan, so I'm trying to take the easiest way out. Also, are there
    any tutorials on the Internet to do this job?

    Thanks,

    --TJ
     
    techjohnny, Jan 25, 2008
    #1
  2. techjohnny

    motsco_ Guest

    --------------------

    You sound like you've got it figured out, but I still wonder if 98% of
    Honda pan gasket 'leaks' are just oil running down from the messy oil
    filter area. Others will have what you seek.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Jan 25, 2008
    #2
  3. techjohnny

    jim beam Guest


    in my experience, most leaks respond well to tightening the nuts a
    little, making sure the rocker cover gasket isn't leaking, the pcv valve
    is not blocked, and using a decent oil that has seal conditioners like
    castrol.
     
    jim beam, Jan 26, 2008
    #3
  4. techjohnny

    techjohnny Guest

    OK. So I should have a new oil pan ready as part of the replacement
    of the oil gasket?

    Thanks,

    --TJ
     
    techjohnny, Jan 26, 2008
    #4
  5. techjohnny

    techjohnny Guest

    Actually, the mechanic said I need to replace the pcv valve. This
    does require removing the transmission, correct?

    --TJ
     
    techjohnny, Jan 26, 2008
    #5
  6. techjohnny

    jim beam Guest

    absolutely not. it's the crank case breather valve on the engine -
    nothing to do with the transmission.
     
    jim beam, Jan 26, 2008
    #6
  7. techjohnny

    jim beam Guest

    unless there's something wrong with it - like it's all banged up or the
    drain plug threads are stripped, no, you don't need to replace the pan.

    one thing you /do/ need to be aware of is having to disconnect the
    exhaust system, and that can be problematic because the both threads
    often strip. that's why i suggest you try simply tightening the
    existing gasket a little [not too much], looking for other leaks, and
    using an oil that will help prevent leaks. if you do the above and
    after a few weeks, it's still leaking, go ahead and buy the gasket, the
    correct [non-hardening] sealant, and some spare exhaust bolts. and the
    honda workshop manual. best use a torque wrench.
     
    jim beam, Jan 26, 2008
    #7
  8. techjohnny

    motsco_ Guest

    =================

    Look up your car at www.slhondaparts.com Find the engine and the intake
    / valve cover. The PCV is there at the end of a hose.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Jan 26, 2008
    #8
  9. techjohnny

    nick Guest

    Be 100% sure that the leak is indeed the gasket seal. I did this on a
    95 Accord and it was a pain. Try what the other posters have mentioned
    and tighten the bolts a bit before going through with the change. I
    have a slight leak on our 99 Accord now and am still thinking if I
    want to go through and do this myself or pay someone to do it because
    of how much time my first change took me.
     
    nick, Jan 28, 2008
    #9
  10. techjohnny

    Elle Guest

    No, replacing the PCV valve is very easy on most Hondas and
    kinda tough on some, though. It appears very easy for yours,
    per
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=BREATHER+TUBE

    See the following for help (manuals and/or illustrations
    with changing the oil pan gasket and PCV valve).

    http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html (Try the 96
    Accord manual)

    www.autozone.com

    bkhondaparts.com for illustrations. For the breather tube,
    click on "Display all," read down.

    Buy only an OEM PCV valve. Should cost under $25 at your
    dealer.

    I would be surprised if the oil pan was not mating properly
    to the engine block yada surface, but I guess it could
    happen. I think the leakage would be way worse if the pan
    were this deformed.

    Maybe buy one of those cheapo, small range, torque wrenches
    at Harbor Freight to torque the oil pan nuts to spec. This
    is what I used on my 91 Civic a few years ago when I did the
    oil pan gasket.

    I'd be checking around the distributor's bottom for signs of
    leakage, too. The camshaft penetrates the distributor
    housing, and there's a seal or two where it does. They are
    known to need replacement every five years or so. Google
    this newsgroup for more info.
     
    Elle, Jan 28, 2008
    #10
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.