Replacing rotor+distributor on a 93 Civic

1993 Honda Civic 1.5L auto
After reading tegger link , which advise against cranking the engine
with
the wire or cap removed http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html
The rotor have a screw but it is not always in a direction that can be
removed.
Is there a bolt location that I can turn the rotor without cranking
the engine ?
Or can one disconnect the power feed to the distributor (somewhere ?)
and then crank the engine to get the proper location of the rotor
screw.
I am fine with either approach as long as I can get to the screw
location.
Thank in advance for the advise.

 

Hi,
Disconnect battery = no chance of damaging ignition parts.
Remove spark plugs = Easy to turn engine with hand.

 

-------------------------

You could run a jumper from the silver 'tit' on top of the coil to a
suitable ground. The coil is the part that pokes farthest into the
distributor cap. Then you could safely spin the engine all you wanted.
It doesn't even have to be a large jumper wire. There's no current.

When removing the rotor, use a fairly LARGE Phillips tip, or grind a bit
off the tip of the one you have. The tip should be bottomed in the screw
and fit snuggly. North American tools rarely fit Japanese screws
correctly and you will need all the torque you can get.

'Curly'

 

that's a function of japanese consistency vs. cheap variable crap that
we import and put our names on. that said, klein tools are great
domestically manufactured screwdrivers. available in the electrical dept.

 

Removing the entire distributor housing requires removing
all of three bolts and disconnecting an electrical connector
or two. Use a sharpie marker to draw a line from distributor
housing to about where it mates against the engine, so as to
keep the timing set. (Rotating the housing via loosening the
three bolts is how the timing is set.)

 

--------------------------

Last time I changed my rotor I just slipped the distributor off and laid
it on top of the air filter (CR-V) so I could get a clean shot at the
screw. The connector was too hard to pop apart but there's enough wire
on the CR-V. If you take yours off, have a replacement O-ring on hand.
They really should be replaced or they will leak.

'Curly'

 

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Peek inside the driver's
side wheelwell. See the big rubber plug? Remove that. Now use a 19mm
socket, some extensions and a ratchet to turn the engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE
until the screw is where you want it. No need to pull spark plugs.

Check to see if you have an Allen key or a Phillips screw in there.

 

Thank you for all the advise and pointer. Now I feel more confident in
trying the work.