Right side drive axle, '97 accord

Discussion in 'Accord' started by Frank Boettcher, Oct 25, 2005.

  1. My 97 accord has a busted boot on the outer right side cv joint. It
    is sounding off on turns and acceleration.I plan to replace the drive
    axle, but, although I've done a lot of work on this car and my '90
    accord, i've never done one of these.

    What actually has to come off? My haynes says the damper fork has to
    be completely removed and that the lower control arm has to be
    separated from the steering knuckle ball joint. Manual shows using a
    standard two jaw pulley/gear puller to do this.

    The FAQ left me a little confused about what actually had to come off
    and whether the ball joint would separate with a standard puller. I'm
    mostly concerned with getting the ball joint separated without ruining
    it. Also can you go right to that joint without doing anything else to
    the lower control arm or steering knuckle?

    Anyone who has done one shed any light on this.

    Thanks.

    Frank
     
    Frank Boettcher, Oct 25, 2005
    #1
  2. Frank Boettcher

    TeGGeR® Guest



    No frickin' way. MA Stewart should chime in here soon. If not, I'll repost
    what he did recently.




    Way better than that:
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints

    You can rent them cheap.




    You mean my FAQ? If so, I'd better elaborate.



    Easy with the right tool.


    Yep. Once the lower ball joint is undone, the knuckle will swing away. It
    will try to pull the inner CV joint apart, so be prepared for that! You're
    supposed to knock the driveshaft out of the hub, which takes a hammer.
     
    TeGGeR®, Oct 26, 2005
    #2
  3. I reread the FAQ and I guess confused is not accurate, but cautious
    about the difficulty. Several methods mentioned some with notes about
    the possibility of doing damage to the ball joint. Seems like the
    puller first shown is the best and least likely to do damage and if my
    gear puller does not turn out to be a perfect fit, I'll try to rent
    one that is shown.

    Frank
     
    Frank Boettcher, Oct 26, 2005
    #3
  4. -------------------------------

    The correct puller can be bought at Princess Auto, (in Canada) for $21.
    I found this out the day after picking up a (virtually) identical one
    from a 'wholesaler' for $68 CAN. I told Tegger and he was choked too.
    The 'Imported from Asia' type places are now carrying the 'clones' very
    cheap. The Princess Auto ones are (were?) made in Taiwan. For $21, it's
    cheaper than driving to the rental place, twice.

    'Curly'
     
    'Curly Q. Links', Oct 26, 2005
    #4
  5. Frank Boettcher

    TeGGeR® Guest



    I remember that now. There is a Princess Auto about an hour from me, and I
    was going to go check out the puller you specified next time I was down
    there. Then I forgot.

    I'd love to compare and see the difference between a $90 puller and a $21
    one.
     
    TeGGeR®, Oct 26, 2005
    #5
  6. Frank Boettcher

    TeGGeR® Guest


    Is this clearer?
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
    (Hit "refresh/reload" in your browser)

    I also added something jim beam sent me a long time ago.




    That's correct.



    It might not be strong enough. The ball joint is T-I-G-H-T.
     
    TeGGeR®, Oct 26, 2005
    #6
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