Setting Toe

I'm just a little bit curious. Exactly which bushings are you referring to,
the ones labeled as part #12 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/fwt4y or the
large one in the middle of the rear trailing arm through which bolt #26 goes
to help mount the trailing arm to the car?

Eric

 

I replaced both, but the one to which I refer above is the
larger one (with bolts #26 going through it), Honda part
#52385-SR3000 , only available in the last several years or
so. Schley produced a special (and super fast and super
effective) tool for removing it only in the last couple of
years. I have a fuller discussion at the bottom of
http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id15.html#tabushings ,
with some links to excellent sites with photos of the
process.

The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, for
the most part. That is, no brake lines need be disconnected
and plugged nor bled.

 

I replaced both, but the one to which I refer above is the
larger one (with bolts #26 going through it), Honda part
#52385-SR3000 , only available in the last several years or
so. Schley produced a special (and super fast and super
effective) tool for removing it only in the last couple of
years. I have a fuller discussion at the bottom of
http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id15.html#tabushings ,
with some links to excellent sites with photos of the
process.

The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, for
the most part. That is, no brake lines need be disconnected
and plugged nor bled.

 

The brake lines and hydraulics don't need to be disconnected when you
remove the trailing arm. Everything including the parking brake either
unbolts or unhooks.

 

The brake lines and hydraulics don't need to be disconnected when you
remove the trailing arm. Everything including the parking brake either
unbolts or unhooks.

 

I meant those who intend to take the trailing arm to a shop
or put it into a vise to press out the big bushing (and then
install a new one) would have to disconnect the brake lines.

With the (relatively new) Schley tool, only five bolts need
be removed.

 

I meant those who intend to take the trailing arm to a shop
or put it into a vise to press out the big bushing (and then
install a new one) would have to disconnect the brake lines.

With the (relatively new) Schley tool, only five bolts need
be removed.

 

It just occurred to me: You're partially right. Opening the hydraulics
*would* be necessary on a drum-brake car if you were to remove the trailing
arm from the car entirely. If you had rear *disc* brakes, you do *not* need
to open the hydraulics.

Finally I find ONE advantage to having rear disc brakes! LOL

Sounds like a boon for drum-brake equipped cars.

 

It just occurred to me: You're partially right. Opening the hydraulics
*would* be necessary on a drum-brake car if you were to remove the trailing
arm from the car entirely. If you had rear *disc* brakes, you do *not* need
to open the hydraulics.

Finally I find ONE advantage to having rear disc brakes! LOL

Sounds like a boon for drum-brake equipped cars.

 

I'm a lurker in a.a.h., and I have noticed that you seem very knowledgable.
So, your comment about rear disc breake intrigues me. I thought rear discs
were desirable? If not, why not?

Thanks,

-- R Flowers

 

I'm a lurker in a.a.h., and I have noticed that you seem very knowledgable.
So, your comment about rear disc breake intrigues me. I thought rear discs
were desirable? If not, why not?

Thanks,

-- R Flowers

 

Yes, I was only talking about drums as well as thinking of
the coupla sites that talk about how this new tool makes
life easier. Guess they too were only thinking of drums.

I trust you are correct about the discs. I hadn't thought
about it.

Yes, I'm sure you can tell I'm just tickled about it. Best
$140 I've spent.

Of course, the job's not done until all is newly aligned...

 

Yes, I was only talking about drums as well as thinking of
the coupla sites that talk about how this new tool makes
life easier. Guess they too were only thinking of drums.

I trust you are correct about the discs. I hadn't thought
about it.

Yes, I'm sure you can tell I'm just tickled about it. Best
$140 I've spent.

Of course, the job's not done until all is newly aligned...

 

I pretend well, huh?

Rear dics brakes in a FWD car are desirable to the marketing department.
Buyers tend to get a woody over them because they sound so hi-tech and
sporty. They enable the sales department to have greater success liberating
greenbacks from your wallet.

Rear discs in a road-going FWD car are otherwise utterly useless and
trouble-prone. They never work hard enough to get very hot, so they rust,
seize and wear out with distressing haste and regularity unless the car is
used in SoCal or Arizona.

Any more questions?

 

I pretend well, huh?

Rear dics brakes in a FWD car are desirable to the marketing department.
Buyers tend to get a woody over them because they sound so hi-tech and
sporty. They enable the sales department to have greater success liberating
greenbacks from your wallet.

Rear discs in a road-going FWD car are otherwise utterly useless and
trouble-prone. They never work hard enough to get very hot, so they rust,
seize and wear out with distressing haste and regularity unless the car is
used in SoCal or Arizona.

Any more questions?

 

No, just a comment. I guess their marketing worked well, because I didn't
even think about it. Back in the old days, many cars had drums all around.
Then the front 2 discs came out, and I guess people thought "Well, if 2 are
good, let's do all 4!" I remember sports cars in the 70s and 80s touting
their 4 wheel discs.

-- R Flowers

 

No, just a comment. I guess their marketing worked well, because I didn't
even think about it. Back in the old days, many cars had drums all around.
Then the front 2 discs came out, and I guess people thought "Well, if 2 are
good, let's do all 4!" I remember sports cars in the 70s and 80s touting
their 4 wheel discs.

-- R Flowers

 

OK, thanks for clarifying the work that you did.

No, a four wheel alignment is definitely in order.

Eric

 

OK, thanks for clarifying the work that you did.

No, a four wheel alignment is definitely in order.

Eric

 

That's what I hadn't considered - I haven't had to do four wheel alignment
before. While I imagine it could be done with a similar procedure (measuring
rear wear and torque steer besides the front part) it makes a lot more sense
to take that to a pro.

Mike