Shuddering when taking off

Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and
I checked them last month.

However, I opened up the distributor and saw that the rotor (2 months
old) has a "burn mark" on it. The old rotor was replaced because of
this same problem -- it was corroded badly in the exact same place.

What could be causing it?

Here's a pic of the rotor:

http://hondaswap.com/attachments/general-tech-maintenance/1196d1161673365-strange-distributor-rotor-problem-rotor_burn.jpg

 

Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and
I checked them last month.

However, I opened up the distributor and saw that the rotor (2 months
old) has a "burn mark" on it. The old rotor was replaced because of
this same problem -- it was corroded badly in the exact same place.

What could be causing it?

Here's a pic of the rotor:

http://hondaswap.com/attachments/general-tech-maintenance/1196d1161673365-strange-distributor-rotor-problem-rotor_burn.jpg

 

I guess you can scratch that off your list!

Mike

 

I guess you can scratch that off your list!

Mike

 

that's entirely normal. the rotor and cap posts don't touch, so the
spark has to jump the gap between them. the result is what you see.
this is why the cap & rotor need replacement periodically, but that
period is quite extended - usually something in the range of 100k miles.

bottom line, make sure your electrical system is healthy, but expect it
to cure what is most likely a mechanical problem with the clutch.

don't try to modify the distributor. apart from early problems with
igniters, honda engineers knew their business when designing that thing.
the integrated coil and igniter ensure maximum spark energy without
losses and signal noise in long leads. supposed problems with heat are
b.s. - all components operate well within their capacity.

 

that's entirely normal. the rotor and cap posts don't touch, so the
spark has to jump the gap between them. the result is what you see.
this is why the cap & rotor need replacement periodically, but that
period is quite extended - usually something in the range of 100k miles.

bottom line, make sure your electrical system is healthy, but expect it
to cure what is most likely a mechanical problem with the clutch.

don't try to modify the distributor. apart from early problems with
igniters, honda engineers knew their business when designing that thing.
the integrated coil and igniter ensure maximum spark energy without
losses and signal noise in long leads. supposed problems with heat are
b.s. - all components operate well within their capacity.

 

So I guess the problem is narrowed down to the clutch... Will post back
when I've had it checked out.

Thanks again to everyone who replied!

 

So I guess the problem is narrowed down to the clutch... Will post back
when I've had it checked out.

Thanks again to everyone who replied!

 

| any way to check the induction coil?
I'm not sure, mine ( may be a transformer ) 1st failed only when
hot & during acceleration from idling, not easy to simulate the
same conditions.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/f2/cb/0900823d800cf2cb.jsp
teaches chking these copper wires, but not their insulation
lacquer.

| Can I repair it
Unlikely ; copper coil is sealed in a plastic casing. See what your
automobile-electrician says. 1 can buy a re-con coil, my whole
distributor is a re-con ( retailed @ M$ 280 = ~US$ 75.27 ).

| please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
| distributor and induction coil?
I tried to post 1 photo, but none is allowed in these NG`s.
1 can glue hsinks, or fit copper wires from distributor cap's
bolts ( ideally with washer-connectors & silver paste ) to
bolts on engine compartment walls, primarily to stop another
lacquer crack, but exhaust noise drops too ( even more in my
Mitsubishi 4G15P 's distributor, likewise cooled ).

| > #18
correction - #16

 

| any way to check the induction coil?
I'm not sure, mine ( may be a transformer ) 1st failed only when
hot & during acceleration from idling, not easy to simulate the
same conditions.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/f2/cb/0900823d800cf2cb.jsp
teaches chking these copper wires, but not their insulation
lacquer.

| Can I repair it
Unlikely ; copper coil is sealed in a plastic casing. See what your
automobile-electrician says. 1 can buy a re-con coil, my whole
distributor is a re-con ( retailed @ M$ 280 = ~US$ 75.27 ).

| please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
| distributor and induction coil?
I tried to post 1 photo, but none is allowed in these NG`s.
1 can glue hsinks, or fit copper wires from distributor cap's
bolts ( ideally with washer-connectors & silver paste ) to
bolts on engine compartment walls, primarily to stop another
lacquer crack, but exhaust noise drops too ( even more in my
Mitsubishi 4G15P 's distributor, likewise cooled ).

| > #18
correction - #16