Spoiler LED Wire type

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Guest, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
     
    Guest, Jan 12, 2007
    #1
  2. Guest

    jim beam Guest

    how do you know it would melt? how much current is it conducting?
     
    jim beam, Jan 12, 2007
    #2
  3. Uh, it COULD be due to the fact that he reverse connections earlier this
    month and blew a fuse. Then, after reconnecting it properly (he says),
    he had still more problems.

    Frankly, while I believe everyone should learn how to do this simple
    stuff, I'm glad he's "learning" on his own vehicle and not someone
    else's. I hope that's the case anyway.

    Search back on his posts. The best recommendation for him MIGHT be to
    find somebody who knows what they're doing and have them do it for him/her.
     
    Unquestionably Confused, Jan 12, 2007
    #3
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    Well it melted twice now.

    how much current is it conducting?

    That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
     
    Guest, Jan 12, 2007
    #4
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    Well the Honda dealer would not touch it since it is an after market
    spoiler. I also feel that the guy did not know anything since he had little
    words. I think he was new.

    All I am asking about are wire types or why this thin LED light wire keeps
    melting. Right now I bought some in-line fuses to see what happens next.
    After that I will not have any wire left to try it once more. Could wire
    length have anything to do with it? This wire was very long.
     
    Guest, Jan 12, 2007
    #5
  6. Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting power
    from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or larger. At 10A
    use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage wire. The fuse
    exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you already have a
    problem.

    The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating wire
    is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the light is
    bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.

    Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
    Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
    fun.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jan 12, 2007
    #6
  7. Guest

    Joe LaVigne Guest

    Your response is all the reason to believe that you should not be doing
    this work yourself...
     
    Joe LaVigne, Jan 12, 2007
    #7
  8. Guest

    motsco_ Guest

    ----------------------------------

    LED's are light-emitting DIODES, and if you've ever run juice through a
    diode backwards, they may be shorted, which will keep on blowing up the
    wiring, no matter if its thin or heavier.

    Remove the + and ground connections from your car and try powering the
    diodes directly from another 12 V source, like a different battery. Put
    a fuse in the line (as you suggested) or just a tail light bulb (way
    better), since the LED's are supposed to take way less current than a
    light bulb and if the light comes on bright, you know the diodes are
    indeed shorted to death.

    Don't bother trying a battery charger as your power source. . many don't
    put out any power unless they are connected to a half-ways alive battery.

    'Curly'
     
    motsco_, Jan 12, 2007
    #8
  9. Guest

    jim beam Guest

    ok, if the wire melted, there's something wrong with the light unit.
    total current should be under 1 amp. well under. don't try re-wiring
    it until you sort it out - probably replace it. as pointed out by mike,
    failure to fix could lead to a car fire.

    volts are different to amps.
     
    jim beam, Jan 13, 2007
    #9
  10. Here, I believe, is the problem (as I mentioned in my first response).

    As written by Guest on 1/09/2007

    "I installed a spoiler on my car and when I first installed it, the
    light did not come one and I later found out that I put the wires on in
    reverse and blew a fuse. Some of the wiring even melted. I corrected
    the problem and it was working correctly. Then yesterday, I bought a
    splitter for the cigarette light plug so that I can plug in a radar
    detector and a cell hone at the same time. As I was backing out of the
    lot, I noticed that the spoiler light was not on. I had just plugged
    the splitter in the socket before I started the car up. I checked and
    the wires were melted again and were still very warm to the touch. This
    time, the fuse was not blown. "

    Methinks that Guest and other items, like water, should be kept away
    from electrical devices.
     
    Unquestionably Confused, Jan 13, 2007
    #10
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced it
    with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the car in
    park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot thicker.
    Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another place to look
    at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to be auto wire or
    something specifically marked?
     
    Guest, Jan 13, 2007
    #11
  12. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    **** you. I cam for advice, not smart ass comments. Michael Pardee gave
    advice.
     
    Guest, Jan 13, 2007
    #12
  13. Guest

    jim beam Guest

    dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
    /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
    fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will disappear.
     
    jim beam, Jan 13, 2007
    #13
  14. Guest

    Tegger Guest



    Why does this "Guest" guy preface his posts with the "-- " signature code?

    Doesn't he realize what this does when you reply using many common
    newsreaders?
     
    Tegger, Jan 13, 2007
    #14
  15. Guest

    jim beam Guest

    i don't think it's him, i think it's his "sponsor". if he even knows or
    cares.
     
    jim beam, Jan 13, 2007
    #15
  16. Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was originally
    because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has to protect
    that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the existing
    wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse in there it
    could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of a fault. Twice
    the current also means twice the voltage drop across the wire, so the wire
    will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't shrug this off;
    notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by an electrical
    fire.

    Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
    it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
    the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).

    As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
    the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jan 13, 2007
    #16
  17. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
     
    Guest, Jan 14, 2007
    #17
  18. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    So I guess I might just buy a new one. The guy I bought it from on Ebay has
    been kicked off. He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a return
    authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via email or
    phone. They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear. Damn them! I should have
    bought Honda OEM like I started to...
     
    Guest, Jan 14, 2007
    #18
  19. Guest

    jim beam Guest

    unless there's a simple "gotcha" like a shorted connection, yes.
     
    jim beam, Jan 14, 2007
    #19
  20. My guess is that the wire itself is shorted to ground, most likely where it
    can be pinched or goes through a small hole. I'm not familiar with the
    latest in LEDs, but for the most part the active device needs resistance in
    series to limit current. That would probably prevent the LED from appearing
    as a short on the supply.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jan 15, 2007
    #20
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