sporadic brake problem - pedal sinks to floor

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Art M, Dec 30, 2003.

  1. Art M

    Art M Guest

    Occasionally (when it's warm and I'm in a traffic jam) my brake pedal will
    slowly sink to the floor. It will still give good stopping power when
    pressed quickly, but for a long application I have to re-depress the pedal.

    Is this a vacuum problem?

    Thanks for any advise,
    --Art
    (91 Integra -- hope it's all right to ask here as I don't get the Acura
    newsgroups)
     
    Art M, Dec 30, 2003
    #1
  2. Art M

    Rex B Guest

    |Occasionally (when it's warm and I'm in a traffic jam) my brake pedal will
    |slowly sink to the floor. It will still give good stopping power when
    |pressed quickly, but for a long application I have to re-depress the pedal.
    |
    |Is this a vacuum problem?

    Nope, it's a master cylinder problem. The seals are letting the brake fluid
    bypass. Hard pressure forces the seals up against the cylinder and makes them
    seal. Light pressure lets it leak.
    Replace the master cylinder.

    |(91 Integra -- hope it's all right to ask here as I don't get the Acura
    |newsgroups)

    That's one o' them furrin cars, right?
    Rex in Fort Worth
     
    Rex B, Dec 30, 2003
    #2
  3. Art M

    Tegger® Guest

    (Rex B) spake unto the masses in

    Yup! MC seals are bad. Open up that piggy bank.


    And to keep your new master cylinder new, get your fluid changed once a
    year, preferably by the pedal-pump method.
     
    Tegger®, Dec 30, 2003
    #3
  4. Art M

    Art M Guest

    Thanks guys -- good help in this group. I don't think I'd leave even if my
    ISP started carrying the Acura group. I already need to replace the pads in
    the back so I guess now I can do both at once. Anyone see a problem with
    using the 1st (and cheapest) cylinder listed below. It says it comes with a
    bleeder kit, which I assume means it comes with a couple of hoses to direct
    fluid back to the reservoir. I'm not crazy about the name (Car-done). I'd
    buy something with a price suggesting quality, but too many things are going
    bad on this car leading me to believe it wasn't built to last. What about
    Wearever brake pads -- something tells me they don't.

    --Art
    BTW Tegger, I'm posting a follow-up to "Re: overheating at idle" that I hope
    you'll see.

    Cardone 112544
    Remanufactured; w/o ABS
    Lifetime Limited Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3 lbs.
    $45.88
    $50.00 core

    Bendix 12445
    New; 1"; 4 Door; w/o ABS; 4 Wheel Disc Brakes
    1 Year Replacement Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3 lbs.
    $83.28

    Beck/Arnley 0728686
    Brake Master Cyl: w/o ABS; Cap & sensor not included
    Lifetime Limited Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3.1 lbs.
    $102.99

    Tru Torque M39884
    New; w/Reservoir; Power Front Disc Brakes w/o ABS; 15/16" Dia. Bore
    Lifetime Replacement Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3.1 lbs.
    $77.88

    Raybestos MC39884
    Master Cylinder w/Power: Exc. ABS
    Lifetime Limited Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3.5 lbs.
    $111.99

    Raybestos 2539884
    Master Cylinder: Raymold
    Lifetime Limited Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3 lbs.
    $85.99

    Raybestos 2539884
    Raymold Master Cylinder w/Power: Exc. ABS
    Lifetime Limited Warranty Ships in 1 day
    Weight: 3 lbs.
    $85.99

    This list comes from
    http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?PartType=230&PTSet=A&SearchFor=M
    aster%20Cylinder
     
    Art M, Dec 31, 2003
    #4
  5. Art M

    Gus Guest

    Is it feasible to rebuild the MC? I've done it a couple of times, but
    not recently and not on cars with ABS.
     
    Gus, Dec 31, 2003
    #5
  6. Art M

    Chip Stein Guest


    get the cardone. a-1 cardone is one of the biggest reman companies
    out there. i've got 21 years on my cardone reman. and about 200,000
    miles.
    Chip
     
    Chip Stein, Jan 1, 2004
    #6
  7. Art M

    Art M Guest

    Thanks for the advise, Chip. I certainly can't pass on the price. I suppose
    that even if a rebuild kit was available it wouldn't be worth the small
    price difference.

    --Art
     
    Art M, Jan 2, 2004
    #7
  8. Art M

    Rex B Guest

    On 31 Dec 2003 17:50:40 -0800, (Chip Stein) wrote:

    |>
    |> Is it feasible to rebuild the MC? I've done it a couple of times, but
    |> not recently and not on cars with ABS.
    |
    |
    | get the cardone. a-1 cardone is one of the biggest reman companies
    |out there. i've got 21 years on my cardone reman. and about 200,000
    |miles.

    I run a Cardone reman MC on my RX7 road racing car.
    4 seasons, no problems
    Rex in Fort Worth
     
    Rex B, Jan 2, 2004
    #8
  9. Art M

    Tegger® Guest


    Never do that!!! Old fluid should be redirected to a container for
    disposal. NEVER put anything but fresh fluid into the master cylinder
    reservoir.
     
    Tegger®, Jan 2, 2004
    #9
  10. I think he meant for "bench bleeding" the reservoir... before hooking it up
    to the system lines.

    Rgds, George Macdonald

    "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
     
    George Macdonald, Jan 3, 2004
    #10
  11. Art M

    Tegger® Guest


    Makes sense. Lines long enough to reach from the wheels to the MC _would_
    have to be terribly long, wouldn't they?
     
    Tegger®, Jan 3, 2004
    #11
  12. Art M

    John Horner Guest


    This almost always indicates worn master cylinder seals.

    John
     
    John Horner, Jan 5, 2004
    #12
  13. Art M

    Tegger® Guest


    I have seen this on cars with leaking calipers and wheel cylinders, but
    usually it is the MC seals.
     
    Tegger®, Jan 7, 2004
    #13
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