Stuck lug nut - help

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Loukas Kallivokas, Mar 17, 2006.

  1. I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
    have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
    tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how to separate them
    would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on the wheel with the
    stuck nut will be my next flat tire :) .

    Thanks
    Loukas
     
    Loukas Kallivokas, Mar 17, 2006
    #1
  2. Loukas Kallivokas

    jim beam Guest

    2-stage problem:

    1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel. use a chisel
    & safety glasses.

    2. replace the hub.

    because the bolt is spinning, the splines that hold it in the hub are
    wasted, and it's likely to happen again if you replace try replacing
    just the bolt. fortunately, hubs of this era accord are plentiful &
    cheap in junk yards, so replacement is not going to be difficult.
     
    jim beam, Mar 17, 2006
    #2
  3. ---------------------------

    Depends a lot on what type of wheel is on it, whether you can get a good
    'shot' at it. I'd drill out the stud until there's nothing left but the
    nut. If you can get a clear shot at it from the side, use a nut-buster
    to get the nut off, then do what Jim said.

    'Curly'
     
    'Curly Q. Links', Mar 17, 2006
    #3
  4. Jim and "Curly",

    many thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to break the nut out one way or
    another.

    Loukas
     
    Loukas Kallivokas, Mar 17, 2006
    #4
  5. Loukas Kallivokas

    TeGGeR® Guest



    Questions:

    Are your lugnuts the acorn type, with a closed top? Or are they just
    regular nuts (stud protrudes)?

    Alloy wheels? Or steel with wheel covers removable without removing the
    nuts)?
     
    TeGGeR®, Mar 18, 2006
    #5
  6. Loukas Kallivokas

    Burt Guest

    Drilling was proven to be more time consuming. Unless, you can
    crumble the nut by drilling on both sides of a nut by avoiding the stud.
     
    Burt, Mar 26, 2006
    #6
  7. Loukas Kallivokas

    Burt Guest

    You can take an angle grinder, cut the nut and bolt then grind the rest out.

    You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
    on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
    removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
    experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.
    Next step is to secure the stud. Now, drill the hub and the stud's head
    to secure the stud from spinning but don't drill all the way thru.
    Insert a steel key to fit.
    Is the chisel intended to break the stud/nut or spin out the bolt? This is
    impossible if the nut is seized to the bolt, which in many cases it's
    too much stuck together.
     
    Burt, Mar 26, 2006
    #7
  8. Loukas Kallivokas

    Kaz Kylheku Guest

    Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
    its role?
     
    Kaz Kylheku, Mar 26, 2006
    #8
  9. Loukas Kallivokas

    jim beam Guest

    it's role is to melt when the brake/bearing assembly gets hot and really
    foul up the whole stinking mess.
     
    jim beam, Mar 26, 2006
    #9
  10. Loukas Kallivokas

    Burt Guest

    As in...? JB-Weld do not melt but instead burn up at extreme temperatures.
     
    Burt, Mar 27, 2006
    #10
  11. Loukas Kallivokas

    Burt Guest

    Yes. Epoxy fills the void to eliminate play. Remember that the old lug nut
    has strip portions of the teeth. Play is its enemy. And the inserted key
    takes all the weight.
     
    Burt, Mar 27, 2006
    #11
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