stupid rear brake drum

Hey all

98 civic lx canadian, Manual trannie, 220000kms

my stupid rear passenger brake is draggin. About
a year ago, while it was friggin freezing out,
i noticed that my e-brake was not disengaging
properly. I disconnected it inside the car
(easy enough) and left the driver side connected
so that I still have functionality (albeit not
much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I have a
remote starter.

Anyone have any ideas on whether this prob can
be repaired, or if I have to replace the entire
cable for that side of the e-brake?

t

 

-------------------------

You'll need a torque driver to get the phillips screws out to take a
look . . It's very basic drum brakes inside. Pick up a Chilton's at the
dealer, or better yet, there's some great stuff and links at TeGGer's
FAQ about rusted brakes.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

'Cruly'

 

Also you shouldn't really be using your parking break when it is freezing
because sometimes it will just freeze in the on position and cause you lots
of problems.

 

I haven't covered drums yet, though.

A Chiltons/Haynes (normally crappy manuals) are good for basic stuff like
drum brakes.

Also useful for beginners is this site:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake.htm

 

Probably the cable was frozen inside its sheath. If you reconnect it now,
you'll probably find it's working fine now.

Not a great idea at all...

Sounds like you need to replace the parking brake cable, which is an easy
job. Best to do both at the same time, as if one is bad, the other won't be
far behind.

You can check this by jacking up the rear of the car, removing both drums,
disconnecting the cables from the mechanism (usually means complete
disassembly), and then push/pull the cables to see if they both slide
freely. Check any and all rubber bellows for splitting, which is how the
water gets inside.

Cables can suffer from rust, ingress of water, and binding due to impact
and jacking damage. Drums brakes themselves are usually pretty reliable,
because the mechanism is shielded from the weather.

 

Only true if the rubber sealing bellows are broken.

 

Thanks for the detailed response, Tegger. My replies are embedded in your
message below:

Actually, I did that, and that is why I am having
problems now. Very frustrating, but I did this
based on the same logic as above. Guess it
must be physical damage to the sheath or its
rusted inside. Is there a spring in there?

What's not a great idea? Having a remote starter?
(waste of gas in my car, since at idle it really
doesn't warm up much. but i have it, and use it,
gives about 20 seconds of running time before
I take off since I normally start it while walking
up to the car. ya ya, i know people don't think you
need to idle before driving, I just do it... Its built into my car
alarm...)

Or disconnecting the e-brake is a bad idea? Well,
fortunately I live in Winnipeg. I can practically
see the CN tower from here, so yes, I would agree
that if I lived in BC or Alberta, this would be
an incredibly terrible idea, but here in Manitoba
where you can watch your dog run away for 3 days,
not as big of a concern. And it does catch enough
to prevent rolling on even some fairly steep grades like driveways and
stuff.

I do however plan on tackling this problem this
summer, while I do my rear brake shoes. They've
never been done, 220000kms on em. I guess they
are glazed, cuz they've been at about 2 millimeters
for like the last 100000kms. lol....

I suppose it makes sense to do both. They would
probably end up being different lengths if I only
did one, since the old one would be stretched
some.

Another question, since I will be doing the shoes
at the same time, is there a kit from Honda
available with all the springs and related
hardware? Probably time to think about
replacing all that crap too.

Maybe resurface the drums too.... is that worth
it?

I should probably put this in another topic,
but here goes anyways: A couple years ago I went
to a non-Honda shop to get my brakes inspected.
My uncle worked there so I figured he could get
me a deal. Well anyways, they adjusted my brakes
somehow so that it changed the ratio of front
to back application, ie before I went in, the
ratio was probably 80:20 front brake power to
rear brake power. My pedal went down pretty far,
and I think it was probably a little too extreme.

The shop adjusted the brakes so that it was
more like 50:50 or 60:40 front to back. I felt
this was a little extreme. He also adjusted the
e-brake at the time to like 1-2 clicks (which is
easy to change, but I thought I would mention).

Anyways, is there an easy way to adjust this? Is
it an adjustment in the drum somewhere?

So when you gonna get the drum FAQ goin?

Thanks a heap.

Terry

 

hafto use the park brake, otherwise my command
start won't work. its c-c-c-cold here in winter....

 

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It can rust inside if enough water gets in for long enough. Probably what's
happended to you now.

Yeah. You're letting it sit in neutral, no parking brake. Somebody bumps
your car and it will roll into...?

I know, I've been to Winterpeg. Flat like a damn table. Cars disappear in
the distance haze before they ever even come close to disappearing over the
horizon.

Not at Riding Mountain National Park! That's the pimple on Manitoba's face.

The adjustment is inside the drum. The parking brake cable is given final
adjustement AFTER the shoes are bedded in. There is only ONE correct way to
adjust them, and proper feel is very much dependent on lots of factors, not
just shoe adjustment.

The number of clicks of the parking brake needs to be just enough that when
the handle is released, the brakes don't drag. 1-2 clicks doesn't sound
like enough. Usually it's 4 or 5.

I forget just now if Honda adjusts drums with the parking brake or by
stepping on the brakes while backing up. Either way, it would be obvious by
pulling the drum off.

Soon...

 

I disconnected it inside the car

Actually no. To be clear, I only disconnected
the passenger side cable. The driver side
cable is still hooked up and works. However,
with only one side working, the functionality
of the park brake is not what it should be. But
I can park on inclines, and the car does NOT roll.

Having no Park Brake would be extremely dangerous, agreed!!

Thanks for the info...

t