TeGGeR's injector problems...

When I replaced my rears, I went with OEM for the very reason that I didn't
want the squeaks and harsh ride you tend to get with urethane bushings.

 

I have ruled out the urethanes for this reason. Also, I
suspect they're tougher to install using amateur shop tools.

But the Mugen's are supposed to be simply harder rubber.

OTOH, a site you mentioned here some time ago
(http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bushing/bushing.html)
suggests that the Mugen's and Honda OEM are now the same.

The Mugen's are about $10 cheaper (per front lower control
arm set) than what I'll pay for ones from
cheapesthondaparts.com and slhonda.com.

At this point I think I'll just pop each control arm into a
150 degree F oven for a half hour and see if that heats it
enough to do as JT (= poster "Grumpy") said, re installing
the bushings. Probably also refrigerate the bushings
themselves for an hour.

Back to your car's accelerating vibration problem...

 

the mugen bushings /are/ rubber and they're an *exact* pattern fit.
none of the urethane squeaks. but the mugen rubber is definitely harder
- i've used them. there was some durometer reading info out there on
the net a while back, but i didn't save the link. even if you didn't
have that info, prodding the two different rubbers with a screwdriver
gives obvious differences. driving - the contrast is huge. great on a
nice smooth track, but much too harsh for my taste on the crappy roads
we have around here.

 

not even a piglet - looks are deceiving. and you don't need a bearing
press - it's basically just 4 bolts. the big center bolt is best
tackled with an air ratchet since there's very limited swing arc
available for a conventional wrench, but the ratchet snugs up in there
just like the gap was made for it. which it probably was. the 3 little
bolts are loctited in there, so they need cracking loose - make sure you
use 6-sided flank drive sockets. other than that, two universal joints
and a couple of extensions, for the one tricky one, and you're set. if
it takes you an hour, it'll only be because it's your first time or
because there's crash damage bent the frame.

don't neglect the front mounts either. if you want to be economic, the
two main side mounts are often ok enough to leave.

 

I quickly scanned all posts, so if I missed these things, I apologize.
Does your car display same "vibration" etc. while not moving i.e.
revving @ standstill? I don't know Canadian law, so does your car have
a catalytic converter? Is it automatic, or stick shift?

 

Haven't tried that yet, but will today. I don't anticipate any vibration,
as there would be no load on the engine.

All details here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/help.html

Canadian emissions law is virtually identical to US law, actually.

Yes there is a cat and O2 sensor. My engine controls are identical to a US
model's.

Manual.

 

I am not a professional auto tech, so just putting some things out
there for thought.
1. Possible restricted catalytic converter?
2. A dynamic timing problem?
3. items 1 & 2 could go hand in hand.
4. clutch chattering / very slight slipping @ higher rev's? Not enough
to notice on tach, but enough to feel?