Timing Belt deflection CRX

I am in the process of replacing a broken timing belt in 85 CRX Si. I am
almost done (had to do the valves and did the rings for good measure). The
"tensioning " directions that I followed left the timing belt really loose.
I could deflect it an inch or more with very little pressure. I don't think
that is adequate. Any one have a good rule of thumb for how much you should
be able to deflect the belt with your thumb (no pun intended) when it is
properly tensioned? The tensioning spring mechanism may be a little old in
the '85 as the root cause of the "poor tensioning" I am suspecting. Thanks
for any help in advance. wolf

 

"Wolfgang Bley"

Thumb really hard on the tensioner then tighten it. Works for me. Next oil
change, do it again.

 

Thanks. I had not read anyplace to "retighten" the belt after use but it
does make sense. Any other comments on that topic? wolf

 

it shouldn't have that much slack. if it's put on right, then turn the
crank 3 cam teeth and tighten the tensioner. if you just push on the
tensioner and tighten it the belt will make a really nice noise. i get
the all the time from hack shops that are overtensioned with a
customer complaint of a whining noise.
Chip

 

Also, keep in mind that your alternator belts etc. need to be fairly
tight as friction against the pulleys is the only thing that makes them
do their work. Not so for a timing belt as it has teeth.

 

For an 84-87 Honda CRX, the timing belt adjustment bolt needs to be torqued
to 45 NM or 35 lb-ft. On the 88-91 Civic/CRX the manual calls for 33 lb.ft
of tension.

As for the other belt.. i.e. the alternator belt.. the 88-91 Civic/CRX
service manual calls for 7-9mm deflection when you apply 10KG (22lb) of
force to the belt, new. Once the belt has some broken in time the
deflection of 9-11mm is normal.

I hope you had a good time replacing your Timing Belt, I have done it twice
and enjoyed doing it myself because I know it's done right.

Regards

 

"Randolph"

Agreed. But over-tightening the alternator belt to stop the squeak will cause
premature failure of the components driven by the belt. If called for, use
antislip compound.

OP: Thumbing a new OEM belt (but not way too hard) isn't a problem (AFIK)
but not required and will not slip. After 7k miles you might see the T-belt
slacking enough to cause flapping vibrations. In this case crank the pulley
to rid the slack but *ignore the thumb trick,* then loose + tighten
tensioner. Check timing.
It's a common practice for me to checking t-belt play. And never had
noise problems.

 

Thank you all who replied. I had an old original block and timing belt that
we removed to use the head (we trashed our valves when our belt broke). That
belt was fairly tight compared to what we had when I tensioned the new belt.
That was the cause for my concern. Again many thanks to all of you for the
help. wolf

 

I did get a lot of "satisfaction" being able to "get it back together" but
enjoy would be a little too strong on this project because I have never done
this before. It is my son's car and the "fear" of screwing things up took a
lot of the fun out of the project for me. I did learn a lot especially "on
line".People were very generous with their time and information. With the
exception of the crankcase bearings we basically rebuilt this engine in my
garage. We will "fire it up" tomorrow since I have to baby-sit my
grandchildren today. sincerely, wolf

 

After replacing a bad starter the rebuilt engine started on the first try!
The belt has some give it and I will get a second opinion from my local
garage now that it is running. Thank again for all the help. wolf