Timing Belt / interference engine ( 98 Accord)

Hi;
I'm new to this group. I would like advice/opinions on a 1998 Honda
Accord.
I just bought this car used with 128,000 miles. It was through a dealer
so
there is no way I can get service records.

How difficult is it to change the timing belt on the 2.3L I-4 ?
I had a 1984 Accord quite some time ago and I changed the belt myself.
It wasn't too hard.
Does the 1998 2.3L I-4 have an interference head?
How much damage (if any) can be expected when the belt breaks?

Thanks for the advice.
Gary - ATLANTA

 

From doing the job on my 91 Civic and reading a lot of posts
on this here, if you're reasonably experienced with auto
repairs (e.g. done brake pads, changed all fluids, checked
timing, set valve lash) and if you have the time, then for
this year Honda, this is probably something you can attempt
and complete successfully by yourself. It may take some
research and purchase of a few more tools. Several good web
sites discuss Honda TB changes, and people here will be
happy to send you to them as well as consult with you here
at the newsgroup when you have questions.

This newsgroup gets a lot of posts on Hondas bought used
with an unknown service history. Others and I speculate
it's so often "unknown"because the used Honda is most likely
due for a TB change. The seller is trying to save $600 or so
by not changing the TB before sale. So you want to change
this Honda's belt a.s.a.p., IMO.

Your Honda does have an interference engine. The engine
damage if the belt fails can be severe. Depending on car
speed etc. at time of failure, the pistons hit the valves,
and then the valves are toast.

 

if you've done this stuff before, you can do it again!

potentially, lots. much too expensive to be worth /not/ changing the
belt asap. as in, right now, don't wait.

buy the honda service manual from helm.com, and get a crank pulley
holder. an impact wrench or 3/4" socket driver for the pulley bolt will
be handy too.

 

My two cents:
I have changed TB on 93/97/98 Civic. Only real issue that I ran into
was that I had to rent a 3/4" impact driver to remove the crankshaft
bolt. My 1/2", just didn't do it at 120 psi. If you have more psi -
you might be okay. Th rest of the task is straight forward.
Steve

 

If you bought it through a Honda dealer, they can tell you from their
computer what dealer services were performed on the car.

The only trick is getting loose the crank bolt. Its torqued to 180 lb-ft
and will require considerably more force than that to break it loose. If
you have the holding tool and/or access to an air wrench, its not that big
of a deal. There is also a balancer belt in there that should be replaced
at the same time.

Enough that its not worth waiting. Damage is not guaranteed if the belt
breaks, but the odds are not in your favor.

 

wrote in @f1g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Oh yes.

Potentially lots, and if it happens, very expensive!

As others have pointed out, the primary problem is going to be removing the
crank pulley bolt.
See here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html

As well, you have a balance shaft belt that needs to be replaced at the
same time.